Thread: i need some help

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

the old rule of thumb about needing air, fuel,spark needs to be rewritten to say fuel at a pressure that the induction system can handle----------

I would say it still holds true. Air, Fuel & Spark are the basics, tuning comes into play after that. I would add that fuel pressure needs to be stressed more under tuning procedures. As does finding TDC #1 on compression stroke when installing a distributor.

Sounds like too much fuel may have cause fire that melted triangle of death that plugged carb. Time to take carb off and buy rebuild kit if needed. The kits are fairly cheap and usually have good instructions, that even I can follow. Also pressure regulation to the carb as stated would also be in order. Keep us posted.

Originally Posted by Jerry c10

thanks guys again this is helping a lot update on new info. (all prior to it messing up) Have a new fuel filter before the carb its a clear one it doesn't have any trash in it or anything. The fuel pump is about 4 months old. Works good and I may need a regulator somewhere its an electric fuel pump maybe it messed up something, I don't know how hard it is to damage anything inside the carb. what could to much pressure cause to fail or malfunction? I my self don't think that would cause my truck to act sluggish would it? I feel like that triangle of death really got me. Feel like it dripped down stuff into my carb. the whole top of the filter is gone, melted. had a few backfires.

Jerry, if you're willing to follow some simple instructions, I and the others on this board can help you to understand and fix your truck. The second thing you have to fix is the fuel pressure into the carb. Edelbrock carbs will operate best with no more than 5 psi pressure, measured at the carb inlet. Some fellows on this board and other boards have said that they use 4 3/4 psi, but I'm of the opinion that if you have a steady 5 psi, you'll be fine.

What you need to do first is to sling that air filter assembly over the fence and install a 14" x 4" assembly, with a dry paper element. Here's the element.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...hAgaAlNw8P8HAQ
and here's the top and bottom covers.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3001k/overview/
The stud to hold the top on will be a custom length. Go down to your local Ace Hardware, True Value Hardware or Home Depot and pick up a 12" stick of 1/4" x 20 tpi (threads per inch) stick of ALLTHREAD. Screw the whole stick down into the carburetor and assemble the air filter assembly with the excess stud sticking out of the top of the air filter assembly lid. Thread the hold-down nut onto the stud and snug down against the lid. Mark the threaded rod above the hold-down nut. Disassemble and cut the stud to length using a fine blade in your hacksaw. (You do know to chuck it up in the vise on the end that you will not use, right??). Smooth the end of the stud with a fine-toothed file. Assemble the whole mess and paint the top of the stud with clear nail polish to prevent it rusting. Or, you could be ever-so-cool and use a stainless steel stud. (costs a little more, but will never rust).
Here is a conversation from the Jeep forum that explains the details of the process....
Edelbrock carb - Stud for Air cleaner? - JeepForum.com

Next, let's get the fuel pressure under control.
Screw this nipple into the carb fuel inlet.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1497/overview/
Use a short piece of 3/8" rubber fuel line to connect the nipple to this tee.....
Moroso 65360 Fuel Pressure Gauge Fitting 3 8 in Line w Hose Fitting | eBay
Come off the middle port of the tee and connect a 0-15 psi, liquid-filled mechanical fuel pressure gauge such as this......
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-26-500/overview/
This gets a gauge into the system. Now, we'll plumb in a fuel pressure regulator....
Buy two of these.....
Chrome 3 8" NPT 3 8" Hose Straight Fuel Line Fitting | eBay
Screw one into the inlet side and one into the outlet side of this fuel pressure regulator.
Now come off the other side of the fuel pressure gauge tee with a short piece of 3/8" rubber hose to connect to the 3/8" hose barb on the fuel pressure regulator. Come off the other side of the regulator with whatever it takes to connect to your current fuel delivery system. If you place the gauge and regulator somewhere close to the carb inlet and secure them with whatever kind of mechanical contrivance (brackets) that it takes to make sure they stay where you put them, they will last for a long while.

On any threads, use ONLY Permatex No.3 Aviation sealer. Do not apply sealer to the first 2 or 3 threads, go on up to thread number 4 or higher to prevent sealer entering the fuel system. This is the only fuel-resistant sealer to use. Period. Period. Period. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, USE TEFLON TAPE.
Amazon.com: Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant, 4 oz.: Automotive
You should be able to find this #3 at any self-respecting auto parts store.

I just found this. If it were available with a 0-15 psi gauge and the regulator were available as a 4 1/2 to 9 psi unit, this would be a lot cleaner than the plumbing I described above.....
http://www.expressfuelpumps.com/auto...al-p-3802.html
Call these guys up, tell 'em what you're trying to do, they may have a better idea......


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I had a similar problem years ago on a 350 chev. It just started backfiring and would not run well at all. After a day or two of cussin and checkin I found that the tip of thr rotor had come loose just enough where it would move back and forth about 30+ degrees. That much movement really threw the timing off, then on, then off....

Nice post tech!