Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree52Likes

Thread: Chevy 350, zero compression. engine not starting
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 109
  1. #16
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    I've never paid much attention to where the dizzy rotor is pointing.
    Most manuals will show the 5:30 position (rotor pointing toward #1 plug). If you phase the rotor at the same position every time, you can tell where you're firing with the dizzy cap off as you turn the crank. I just got used to it when I was a kid and have not done it any differently through the years. Thank you for your input.

    .
    glennsexton likes this.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  2. #17
    36 sedan's Avatar
    36 sedan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    american canyon
    Car Year, Make, Model: 36 Ford Sedan, 23 T Bucket
    Posts
    1,899

    I believe we have confused the OP with too much information at this point.

    With the timing chain marks lined up correctly, if he follows "firebird77clone" method in post #15, his distributor and ignition timing should be close enough to fire. However, as "techinspector1" said in post #6 (at the end), the valve lash needs to be set correctly first. No compression on all cylinders is usually valve lash too tight.

    Before trying to start the motor, back the lash off until slightly loose at the rockers and re-test compression, if compression comes up to near desired results, reset the lash correctly and the compression problem should be solved (re-test compression after re-setting lash to be sure).

    Once compression is correct, you can then move on to timing and firing the motor. No amount of fuel, timing or spark will fire a motor without COMPRESSION..

  3. #18
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bartlett
    Posts
    6,831

    So--you haven't said if you checked the compression yet??????
    36 sedan likes this.

  4. #19
    36 sedan's Avatar
    36 sedan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    american canyon
    Car Year, Make, Model: 36 Ford Sedan, 23 T Bucket
    Posts
    1,899

    And there lays the problem (post #3).. LOL
    Last edited by 36 sedan; 06-21-2015 at 04:07 PM.

  5. #20
    JbRat's Avatar
    JbRat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    57

    so did all of the above and decided to recheck the rockers before I started.. found number 8 bent... ran to napa , replaced it. The others look ok but I think the issue is the rebuild mechanic used roller rockers, that are non-self aligning... and I don't see guides on the head anywhere and several of the rockers move on the roller part way over. I dd notice on the two rods I pulled have a shiny spot where they are rubbing on the head. They sure don't stay centered. By the way these are vortec heads...

  6. #21
    36 sedan's Avatar
    36 sedan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    american canyon
    Car Year, Make, Model: 36 Ford Sedan, 23 T Bucket
    Posts
    1,899

    Quote Originally Posted by JbRat View Post
    I think the issue is the rebuild mechanic
    You may have said it all..

  7. #22
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bartlett
    Posts
    6,831

    vortec heads had longer valve tips and rockers with raised guide rails to stay centered

  8. #23
    JbRat's Avatar
    JbRat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    57

    First...Thanks !!! to everyone for their info.



    so it has compression
    The dizzy was installed and timed ok per the procedure referred to.
    and it started... I ran to to about 2200rpm then shut it down
    I have a severe oil leak at the head to timing to oil pane so will pull that down and fix

    Until i figure this rocker issue I won't run it again...
    Last edited by JbRat; 06-21-2015 at 09:35 PM.

  9. #24
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bartlett
    Posts
    6,831

  10. #25
    JbRat's Avatar
    JbRat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    57

    Thanks Jerry,

    Will these work with the rods I have now? Look to be 7.79 long.

    I was also told I have a stage 2 cam, but when pressed for specs I can't drag them out of the builder.

    I have read there is little advantage to roller rockers so the above makes sense, especially in a street rod type of application...

  11. #26
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bartlett
    Posts
    6,831

    not much will fit under those center bolt valve covers
    Pushrod length???? hard to say

  12. #27
    firebird77clone's Avatar
    firebird77clone is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hamilton
    Car Year, Make, Model: 69 nomad, 73 charger, 74 vega
    Posts
    3,900

    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
    Most manuals will show the 5:30 position (rotor pointing toward #1 plug). If you phase the rotor at the same position every time, you can tell where you're firing with the dizzy cap off as you turn the crank. I just got used to it when I was a kid and have not done it any differently through the years. Thank you for your input.

    .
    Sounds good, I'll give it a try next time.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  13. #28
    JbRat's Avatar
    JbRat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    57

    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    not much will fit under those center bolt valve covers
    Pushrod length???? hard to say
    I have high valve covers so should be ok.

  14. #29
    JbRat's Avatar
    JbRat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    57

    A picture is worth a thousand words...

    rockers misaligned...
    Attached Images

  15. #30
    JbRat's Avatar
    JbRat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    57

    Mechanic says they will self straighten... this is after about 2 mins of running at 2000rpm

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink