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Thread: Radiator hose size ?
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    Sherlock_Holmes's Avatar
    Sherlock_Holmes is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks alot for all the inputs ! That helped alot

    Now i just have to wait to get the gauges And the size of the radiator hose was correct, this thing is now mounted

  2. #17
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    Hi again guys
    Henry Rifle & Rrumbler:
    Thanks alot for the clarification - i got a long way to go Now i got the Gauges, now i just need time to mount them

    I don't have the hole right for the termostat housing, and i'm running a heater, so now way it's goes with the water pump

    I got a new question - dumb ass hell is suppose, but I never learn unless i ask
    I had remove my old upper radiator hose, and replace it with a new. BUT: It's still leaking a bit from the hose mounting on the radiator. It's only leaking while the engine is turned off. When i squese the hose, i can hear little "burps" from the hose, and i can se the water is comming from the hose.

    What can i do? Some sealing or what? I have tighten the hose clamps - but afraid to tighten it more if i breake the plastic "neck" on the radiator.

    Thanks for all our help and guides

  3. #18
    rspears's Avatar
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    Sherlock,
    Hopefully you have not already deformed or cracked that plastic fitting on your radiator by over tightening. It should be snug, not too tight.

    When the engine is running the thermostat controls the flow, keeping the temperature relatively constant, but when you shut down the engine the flow stops and the coolant "soaks up" all of the heat built up in the block & heads creating enough pressure difference to "burp" fluid into the coolant recovery tank, expelling any air remaining in the system too. With the proper cap, hoses and coolant recovery tank plumbing this coolant will be pulled back into the radiator when it cools.

    It sounds to me like someone may have put on the wrong radiator cap at some time, or the one you have is simply not working right. I believe that the OEM cap for your Chevy was 13 pounds, but I could be wrong. A lot of radiator shops put on a 7 pound cap for older vehicles not running 195/205/210 thermostats common in the newer engines for improved efficiency. Check the numbers on the top of your cap, and if it's above 15 pounds consider buying a new cap to relieve at a lower pressure.
    36 sedan likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  4. #19
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    I've put two clamps side by side on fuel lines but never on radiator hoses but it might work - - - just thinking out loud.
    Also the hose should fit snuggly on the outlet connection and if it doesn't I would recommend getting another hose that did.

    Em
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    " I'm drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup is overflowed ! "

  5. #20
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    Hi both!
    Thanks for the reply
    Roger: Hope not, but it's the same problem i have before changing the hose. I got water running out from the engine outlet and the radiator outlet. Now, it's only at the radiator outlet.
    I tried to use a little bit of sandpaper to the the roughness from the outlet.

    I have to understand correctly: If there is no air in the system, it will maintaince correct pressure and not leak/burp out? I now i have a lot of air in the system right now, haven't done a prober "airing" of the system yet.

    Em:
    I only got one clamps right now, the hose was hard to get on, it fit perfectly Sorry to ask, but where is the optimal place for the clamp? Right now it's placed 1 inch from the end of the hose, i figure placing another clamp where the hose end also? - I can post a picture if it would be better for understanding?

    Hope you guys understand my poorly english

  6. #21
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    A photo of both the radiator neck and the clamp would help. Is there a part of the radiator neck that is slightly enlarged? If so, the clamp should go right behind that.

    Is this the type of clamp you're using?



    Don't apologize for your English. It is infinitely better than our Danish, I'm sure.
    Last edited by Henry Rifle; 07-17-2015 at 01:10 AM.
    Jack

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  7. #22
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    your English is getting the job done and that's all that counts - - - - hang in there and these Guys will get you going, OK?

    Em
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    " I'm drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup is overflowed ! "

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sherlock_Holmes View Post
    I have to understand correctly: If there is no air in the system, it will maintain correct pressure and not leak/burp out? I now i have a lot of air in the system right now, haven't done a prober "airing" of the system yet.
    Sherlock,
    Once the system goes through several heat & cool cycles it should expel all of the air in the system, leaving it filled with coolant and eliminating oxygen from the loop to minimize corrosion and maximize efficiency. This assumes that you don't let the coolant recovery tank level fall to the point that the radiator sucks air back in when cooling. You will still see the level in your coolant recovery tank rise when you shut down hot, due to the residual heat in the block increasing the system temperature, expanding the coolant volume a few percent. This is why the coolant recovery tanks have two marks, "Full Cold" and "Full Hot". When working properly you should see no leaks, hot or cold.
    36 sedan likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  9. #24
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    Hi again guys !
    Nice to know you can understand my english

    I finally got time to look, at the car today There is lot's of fluid in the recovery tank - does that mean my cooling system is full / working fine?

    I tighten the clamp for a few days ago - maybe that has done the trick? It's still says the small burp sound whjen i squeze the hose.

    Here a couple of pictures:
    http://i61.tinypic.com/t0szyg.jpg

    Have a nice weekend - maybe watching Tour de France? - or is it just us in the EU ?

    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Sherlock,
    Once the system goes through several heat & cool cycles it should expel all of the air in the system, leaving it filled with coolant and eliminating oxygen from the loop to minimize corrosion and maximize efficiency. This assumes that you don't let the coolant recovery tank level fall to the point that the radiator sucks air back in when cooling. You will still see the level in your coolant recovery tank rise when you shut down hot, due to the residual heat in the block increasing the system temperature, expanding the coolant volume a few percent. This is why the coolant recovery tanks have two marks, "Full Cold" and "Full Hot". When working properly you should see no leaks, hot or cold.
    Thank for the clarification - always nice with a walkthoug - you guys know alot

  10. #25
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    I think it's safe to say that the Tour de France is not the main sports attraction in the US this weekend . . .
    Last edited by Henry Rifle; 07-25-2015 at 12:30 PM.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  11. #26
    rspears's Avatar
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    I was able to get your picture to come up after several attempts. Looks to me like your clamp is over tightened. The hose is wrapping up around the edge of the clamp, and oozing through the slots that act as threads. I'd say that there's a good chance your radiator neck is deformed and getting it to seal may be difficult to impossible. You could straighten it out with a well shaped internal dolly and some very light, careful hammer work, if it is indeed deformed.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

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