Thread: Chevrolet performance 350 crate motor

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sounds like that would be a excellent core for a rebuild

I would rebuild it, but it is my daily driver and i wouldnt have any way of getting to work and back while it was out of the truck. So whatever i do would probably have to be done in a weekend

Some will disagree, but for a stock replacement your local auto supply can often be the lowest cost alternative. For example, a long block for your '93 C1500 from O'Reilly's comes with a 3 year, unlimited miles warranty - PowerTorque Remanufactured VCM5 - Long Block Engine | O'Reilly Auto Parts

You might also look at national places like Jasper's, but I think they may only sell through their installer shops, local independent mechanic shops who buy from them wholesale, have tax numbers, etc, etc. My Son-In-Law bought one from them recently (without talking to me first......) Just a thought, trying to offer you some alternatives.

Roger and others have the right of it in my estimation. My son blew his 351W and needed the car for to get to work, so we found a re-man from a reputable builder and speced a cam for it; got the long block in a day, and working a few hours at night after he got off work, we had it in and running in two days. Just transferred all of the shiny, pretty parts from the old one to the new and set it back in the car. Total cost was somewhere just shy of $2200, including me having to buy some shop equipment that I had disposed of in another life in error.

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So i think im buying a 350 that a local racer built for his daughter to use in her car, but she never ended up racing so it was never used. He claims it has around 330hp with roller cams, and i think flat top pistons..... he wants 1100 for it, but i know he needs money so i can probably get it for less... its complete. Intake manifold, carb, water pump, all that good stuff... now before j buy it i am going to see what it has for compression. What is the highest compression i can run on 97 pump gas?

Where can you buy 97 octane pump gas?

About 165 psi on a compression gauge is the limit for using pump gas that is readily available on any corner (probably 91/92/93 octane). 91 is all you can buy here in The Socialist People's Republic of Mexifornia.
Run the motor to bring the coolant temperature up into the normal operating range. Remove all spark plugs to make the motor easier for the starter to turn over. Disable the hot line to the ignition coil to prevent a fire. Allow at least 5 "chuffs" from each cylinder to allow the test gauge needle to reach the max reading. I like to have a spare, fully-charged battery standing by....or another vehicle that I can jump from in the event I run down the test vehicle's battery. Have a good set of jumper cables standing by also.
http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm

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