Thread: What fuel injection control should be used?

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Following a previous thread on my motor to be, Tech suggested that I consider fuel injection. I have been looking at some with the thoughts of adapting a blower per his advice also. The theory of doing injectors after the blower rather than having the blower full of volitle fuel is appealing. I saw this setup on the auction but do not know what type of injection control would be used. Thoughts, suggestions?injection.jpg

I'd probably opt for FAST, and see about getting one of their EFI 2.0 controllers that handles both air/fuel ratio and spark mapping, using OEM style sensors. I'd call their tech line to discuss the specific details and interface to the unit you're looking at. Many of the package EFI systems offered today are using the FAST ECU packaged in their custom box.

Thanks Roger. I think the retro controller from fast appears good.
Lets open the new bag of parts a little futher. I like magnuson superchargers and the fact they are more efficient than the normal roots blowers. I had a thread looking at the M112 blower on a SBC and liked the torque results. Eaton replaced the M112 with a M122 on the Ford Gt500 Mustang motors. The M122 was a newer design with lower temp outputs and better efficientcy. Lots of Gt500 owners upgraded their superchargers at delivery to even better units creating a market for the M122 blowers. I purchased a M122 with basically no miles and would like to place it on the SBC. I think I would like to use an intercooler since I wish to retain the current 9.5 compression ratio. Looking at the Fast unit, it appears they
can control the Ford throttle body. I would like to build an adapter setup to bring this all together. Also going to use the 195 profiler heads that Tech suggested. Possible long road full of lots of mistakes but hope to create super torque at the street RPMs.

Some fuel going thru the blower does cool the intake charge.

Ray, I'd really give the guys at FAST a call and bounce your plan/ideas off of them and see what they have that fits best. They are constantly evolving their controller and software, and there's not much that they haven't seen. Once you talk to them and get things sorted it would be great if you could post your findings here to help others, too. Your plan sounds like a blast so far.

I think this is like asking if a Ford is better than a Chevy-you will get all sorts of opinions.
I am a big Holley EFI fan (probably because I am using one), and I did a LOT of analyzing before I bought one-none of these Systems are what I would call "cheap"-

My reasoning has more to do with the ease of use, available support (Holley expects that whoever you purchase their product from to provide Technical/Start up support-that was big for me), and, there are remote Tuners available to help (I think there are also remote tuners available for FAST too)-the fact that Holley offers a few different ECU's (read cheaper/fewer inputs/outputs) gives you a choice-

I chose the Dominator due to the fact that I am running a 4L80E and needed something to control my electronic Transmission (you can't do that with an HP)-to do the same with the FAST, you have to run a piggyback, although I believe they will (and are) catching up-its' all in one Box with the Holley-

Also the Dominator offers a LOT of inputs/outputs-I didn't think that was a big deal at first, then I realized that (for instance) I could do away with an electric Fan controller (you can set the Dominator to turn on/off the Fan at whatever Temp you choose), and, I am running things like my paddle shifter through it, along with an engine shut-off if the Oil Pressure/Coolant Temperature go over limits that I set (and lots more)-you will find all sorts of reasons to use them-

I would look hard at the Holley HP-it's definitely cheaper, and if you don't need as many inputs/outputs (think hard!), or need to control an electronic Transmission, it could save you a reasonable amount-

Thanks for this thread,

I am limited in funds and was interested in the FITech $795 unit which has no spark sync. I suppose it is a constant-spray device? My "impression" is that the unit can be added to an existing intake without drilling & tapping for nozzle ports? It seems to me that this is a very crude setup but I recall a dragster built on the cheap with two Model A four bangers that used a windshield spray unit for a fuel injection setup. Probably that can only be used for wide open runs so is there any experience with this new low buck FITech unit? The real reason I am interested is that the FITech tech person estimated an improvement of 5-7 mpg. My original goal for a mild SBC wth an OD trans and 3.55 rear was 20 mpg but really I only get 16 mpg so maybe this simple unit could push my mpg over 20. What about "drivability" and idle?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don,
I have no experience with the FI Tech unit, but your chase for mileage improvement seems to be ignoring the fact that you're pushing a brick through the air. IMO you should be over joyed with the fact that you can get nominal 16MPG with a full fendered Model A. Why not just enjoy the ride, and let the mileage land where it lands. If you took on the project of building a street rod based on a mandatory fuel efficiency then I'd suggest that your base premise was flawed. Enjoy the fact that you have a nice '29 roadster that you can have fun with, and quit worrying with the MPG. Just my $0.02 on the subject, and it may not be what you want to hear.

Don, no disrespect intended, but at a conservative estimate averaging $3.00 a gal at 16 miles per gal you would have to drive over 4000 miles just to recoup the $800.00 cost of the cheapest efi. That's not even taking into consideration the cost of labor and additional parts.
And, you may be disappointed in the milage improvement that you may get. As Roger said above, might be better to drive and enjoy, unless you enjoy paying for improvements over driving?

Following up on the suggestions given on EFI controls. Thanks.

Jerry, the addition of fuel before the blower would help with cooling the charge. You have run and seen many more blower motors than I ever will, does the fuel existing inside the blower make it
a possible bomb in case of backfire? I know a lot of the blowers have carbs on top - how much of a fear is this?

Brings up a new question, will the addition of the blower make the high rise single plane shown (3000-7000) work ok in the lower rpm ranges or should I look at adapting a performer rpm manifold?
Remember biggest goal for the engine is the highest flattest torque curve from the get go and quit around 6000.

Thanks