Thread: Gen I (1969) SBC 350 NEED HELP, TICKING SOUND

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Thanks for your input Jerry. I have no problem getting my hands dirty, as run a crew, a shop, and manage a 140acre golf course and I am the only one capable of working on 15+ pieces of specialized diesel equipment, each one more complicated than your little firerbird, on a daily basis. I prefer to work smarter, and seek out some information from people who have maybe been in the same spot, to get a little feedback, so that Im not pulling a engine because an issue cant be pinpointed right away, and it turn out to be something simple that doesn't have definite tell-tell signs. And giving that this platform, a forum, is sometimes used to seek out advice from other mechanics or maybe find someone that ran into something like this, if makes me wonder how shitty of a day one must have to troll with stupid comments. (sort of like this one, but i had a couple of spare mins when I got done picking my nose). Im sure you know all about small block chevys, big block chevys, living a lonely, sad life...but I have a feeling, that may be all you are somewhat relevant for.

I will find my issue with my engine, hopefully with some insight here, but most likely on my own. But I dont have all the spare time to be pulling a engine out under the oak tree in front of my trailer, tearing it down, then scratching my head and ball simultaneously, wondering what that dern tickin noise is. So before i do what you do, as my last resort, i ask around to a few guys that maybe do work on these all day, everyday, and has maybe run into this before....hence, "research"(smarter). Im sure you are a well-to-do- person, but like a said, I had a couple of spare mins on my hands, which are dirty by the way, and thought the quick reply was necessary.

Well, I guess you don't have any idea of my qualifications or abilities and aren't interested in any help from me-
I'll let these other guys help you with info maybe to support my experience and accomplishments.
As far as working on 15+ pieces of complicated diesel equipment I could probably list several that I have worked on also. ( I have a 7.3 f350), In the Army I had an MOS of a tank mechanics helper, but drove a jeep part of the time. In civilian life I have a multi car garage with 2 floor jacks plus a chain lift to the rafters, an early 1940s lathe and vise plus 3 grinders and a drill press
My firerbird doesn't have an engine in it at the present time but when I do put it back together I'll flush the brake fluid and double check the exhaust header bolts.
Yep---I'm leading a lonely sad life, but I am alive----and if I make it to my next birthday, I'll be 75 on March 13-----

Maybe some of these other guys will stand behind me and maybe some will speak up, but a couple of things for sure-If my hands are dirty, I don't pick my nose or scratch my head or balls with dirty hands-------

I would wager that I have changed more cam bearings, camshafts, lifters,etc than the others posting on here put together total. So when you find and fix your problem please post the results and with some pictures of the parts would be nice.
I will remove myself from upsetting you any further and unless you personally ask won't answer any more to you, however I do reserve the option of participating in any discussion of it---

Hey CGW3 Life is short lighten up, its sad that a little commit like that would bother you.
Good luck on your engine.

cgw3,
Maybe I'm missing something? But, I read your thread twice and can't see that Jerry said anything bad enough to set you off like you went. Granted he did make a dirty hands remark, however he was one of the first responders to you asking you to check for push rod rotation, he then asked you two more times, even explained to you why they should be rotating. You did not answer him, and to my knowledge still haven't.
Personally, I think we need to stop killing the messenger(s). I will do as Jerry and leave you alone from this point on. But, if I was to add anything, I would probably add "check your new distributor's gear, to make sure it meshes correctly or isn't damaged.", as you stated in your OP that the noise started after your carb and dist change.
Done....

cgw3, I went back and re-read your initial post plus your updates. On the stethoscope, you will indeed hear components rotating in bearings, but they should be a dull roar, not any type of "tick". Your latest update said that your noise seems to be more focused on the intake area ahead of the distributor which points to cam/lifter. I think I'd adjust the valves to see if that changes your noise any.
You've got a new HEI distributor, but is it correct that the "tick" was there before you changed out the old dizzy for the HEI? The fact that your "tick" follows RPM pretty much eliminates the starter gear making an occasional hit, then rebounding. If it's indeed following rpm, and you're 100% sure there's no exhaust leak then it's either in the cam/valve train, rods/wrist pins, or mains. Like I said, I'd adjust the valves, either static following set procedures (eliminate clearance, then pre-load the prescribed amount as opposed to the spinning pushrod method) and go from there.
I hope you'll hang in and stick with us. I'm looking forward to some pictures of the CJ one of these days. Gotta love the older Jeeps upgraded to V8 power, especially with a stick!!

Thanks for the help guys. Ill let you know what I find.

I would check the distributor or maybe put the old one back in if that is about the time it started, maybe be something loose in the new one. Jonathan

changed carb----------dropped washer in manifold???????

The previous distributor was also a HEI, but cap broke and rotor damaged so I wont be able to put that one on to see? But the new one could be damaged and im going to pull and check. I dropped the pan this morning, and no metal in pan, so that makes me feel a little better. Just to cancel out distributor -shaft to pump and pump itself (is the only area I can really narrow down the sound) im going to pull pump and distributor and check those and the little keyway /pins. If theu look good ill probably move to the adjustment process with valves.

On these older 350s, could there be some play/to much clearance in the wrist pins and may them slap a little when cold and before it warms up?

Also considered fuel pump pushrod tapping? Have you guys seen this alot?

I'll give you another tip or two as I feel its a help to others incase they have similar issues----
While the pan is off-check and or replace all the rod/main bearings-chev are cheap$----
look up at the camshaft lobes with a flash light and see if they are worn excessible across the lobe nose AND ALSO ON THE BASE CIRCLE-the base circle should only be shiny/worn along one edge ( back edge-this is used to keep cam at rear point for timing and oil pump drive with flat tappets)

On the issue of push rods spinning------its more a deal of seeing if some aren't spinning freely or at all as they rotate, stop, rotate, stop---

fuel pump push rod is at front so shouldn't be it as you said sound is at rear
You can unbolt the fuel pump with just two bolts and run engine on whats in carb to see if it helps


wrist pins are interferance fit to rods and aren't usually a problem

cast piston thrust skirt could be cracked and will make noise at cold idle

you can isolate which cylinder by killing(shorting ) out the spark and bad one will quiet down----

If you got the pan off--pull it the rest of the way apart and change bearings, rings, cam/lifters

Originally Posted by cgw3

Also considered fuel pump pushrod tapping? Have you guys seen this alot?

Your fuel pump is spring loaded against the pushrod, it's up front and your hearing it in back so I wouldn't think this is much of a possibility.

Originally Posted by cgw3

The previous distributor was also a HEI, but cap broke and rotor damaged so I wont be able to put that one on to see? But the new one could be damaged and im going to pull and check. I dropped the pan this morning, and no metal in pan, so that makes me feel a little better. Just to cancel out distributor -shaft to pump and pump itself (is the only area I can really narrow down the sound) im going to pull pump and distributor and check those and the little keyway /pins. If theu look good ill probably move to the adjustment process with valves.

On these older 350s, could there be some play/to much clearance in the wrist pins and may them slap a little when cold and before it warms up?

When you put the new distributor in did you verify the depth of fit? Since the SBC distributor sits on the intake any machining of deck, heads, etc affects the dimension of the intake mating surface to the oil pump, and you can have the distributor shaft bottoming out on the pump which means the gears don't engage fully and cause premature wear. The fix is easy, using nylon or metal shim washers on the distributor base to ensure a few thousandths of play when the distributor case is firmly against the intake.

Valve adjustment is an easy process. Lots of explanations out there, but I like this one - Engine Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Right Way

Are you saying that your ticking noise is only when the engine is cold, and that it goes away when the engine warms up? If so my first guess is a lifter that's leaking down a bit when cold, but seals up fine when warm and I'd drive it.

Read this when you have time California Chargers: The Keeling & Clayton story My guess is Jerry probably has messed with a few motors maybe? Just guessin'

Thanks Matt-------been some talk this past week about the Tanya Hawaian girl-I was cropped from that pic but she was something else-----What a honor it was to win that race plus have been chosen as "Best Appearing Car"