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Are you sure you read the numbers correctly?

33417369...90-up...350..........Gen.I Goodwrench crate motor,"Hecho en Mexico", 76cc 1.94" Intake valve, 1.50" Exhaust Valve

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Are you sure you read the numbers correctly?

33417369...90-up...350..........Gen.I Goodwrench crate motor,"Hecho en Mexico", 76cc 1.94" Intake valve, 1.50" Exhaust Valve

I've read posts where people have said the 8 is a 3 but it is definitely an 8, checked it twice then had my wife check it. Are these heads any good?

Originally Posted by DennyW

I found this info...
76cc cast iron heads, casting #83417369, 1.94" intakes, 1.50"

here's a picture of the head.

Attachment 66126
Attachment 66127
Attachment 66128

These are the heads, are they any good? Can I find out what they originally came off?

Any idea on how high of compression these would work good with?

Can I get 300 hp with these heads using the right carb, intake, cam and headers? Any suggestions

Any build you do should start off with the available fuel you will use. If you build too much static compression ratio for the available fuel quality that you will use, then the motor could detonate itself to death.

With today's fuels, the generally accepted limits are 9.5:1 with iron heads and 10.5:1 with aluminum heads. The thing is, the higher the static compression ratio you use, the more cam you have to use, so if you plan to build a street motor or a street/strip motor where most of your driving is in traffic, you will want to build for a lower static compression ratio so you can use a low to moderate cam grind to keep the motor in the rpm range where the cam will be most effective.
Here's a tutorial I wrote that may help you to understand how this all works....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

As far as 300 hp with those heads you have, yes it is entirely possible with the right static compression ratio, right cam, right intake manifold, headers, carburetor, etc. If you will tell us exactly what vehicle the motor will go into and what you want the car to do for you, we will have a better idea of how to tutor you for the proper build. I will advise you this.....do not buy any parts for the build until you have the whole idea and all the part numbers of parts that you will use WRITTEN DOWN ON PAPER. The first thing a lot of fellows will do is to run right out and buy a cam, then have to engineer the whole build around the cam....not a smart way to start.

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This engine is in a 1972 El Camino. It will be driven on the street, don't see me taking it to the strip. Looking for a combination that will run strong and sound good. I don't foresee me racing it, that is why I'm only going for the 300 mark.

Just got it a month ago. The only thing I know about the rear end is that it's a 10bolt, tires are P 245/60 15's. Transmission is a 350 Turbo. Engine data is in my original post, updated info includes the fact that it is a 69' block which originally came with 9:1 compression. I will be checking that this week. Engine runs good, no leaks doesn't burn oil, just needs a little more power. If I need to change rear end I would probably go with 3.73 posi.

Thanks to everyone so far. I'll get it back up on the rack and check for rear end info then post what I found. I don't want to eliminate the ability to go on a road trip, 300 miles each way or so, can't see taking it any farther than that.

Took compression reading today. 4 came in at 135, 2 at 138 and 2 at 140. Numbers are pretty consistent but seem pretty low to me. For reference I live at about 2400 foot elevation. Engine doesn't leak or burn oil, no signs of water or oil mixing and plugs look good. I wonder if the cam in it is effecting the compression. Cam spec noted earlier. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I gave all the info I have on the cam. This was gave to me by the previous owner who had the cam put in. I've tried to get additional info from the manufacturer, Delta, but haven't had any luck.

Had the El Camino back on the rack today, no tag/identification on the rear end

Had rotary cuff surgery on right shoulder last wed and I'm scheduled for same on left mid November so needless to say I won't be putting much work into the 72 until after the first of the year. Still hope to get comments and possible ideas so fire away.
Thanks

How important is it to get ceramic coated headers if just driving on the street? What brand would you suggest for steel headers? Dougs, Hooker or others

Originally Posted by States

How important is it to get ceramic coated headers if just driving on the street? What brand would you suggest for steel headers? Dougs, Hooker or others

Hope your recovery goes smooth, and you push through the rehab pain to get full range of motion. Ceramic coating will keep them looking nice, and reduces the skin temperature some, but not that you'll notice. A good header paint will also keep the rust away. Don't buy anything less than a 3/8" thick flange header, or the flange will warp and you'll be forever chasing exhaust leaks, unsuccessfully.

Finally recovered from surgery, took longer than I expected. HD350 tranny started leaking pretty bad so I took it in to have it looked at. What a mess. Required a total rebuild and new torque converter. While it was apart installed a TransGo Street shift kit. Not radical but big difference. The tranny was original with 169,000 miles on it.

Engine is running good (for now), tranny is in great shape so now I'm looking at the rear end. The rear end isn't leaking per say but all seals seem to be weeping. It also had 2.73 gears. I'm looking to upgrade to either 3.73 or 4.10, any comments?
I'd like to install a posi unit as well. What is a good way to do this without breaking the bank?