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I recently purchased a 1972 el Camino with a 350 that originally had a 2 bbl but was changed to a 600 cfm Holly. The previous owner also put in a Delta Cam for which I can get no information from the manufacturer, the guy I bought it from indicated that it has a duration of 278/288 and lift of 388/410. I would like to build this to 300hp +. I'm planning on headers and an Elderbrook Performer EPS intake.
Questions:
1 any comments on this cam from what info I have?
2 how can I get better performing heads without breaking the bank or are the stock ok.
3 I think I've got 8.5/1 compression ratio (stock) will this accomplish what I want or do I need to upgrade?

I'm retired and on an extremely tight budget!

Welcome Aboard States. Nice to see you here.
300 horses from 350 cid is do-able, you'll have to check for numbers on the heads to know where you stand/what you've got.
There's a lot of folks here who've played with the SBC... (I ain't one of them! LOL)

I've never heard of Delta cams, but that won't mean anything. Do you know if it's a roller cam? With todays oils many prefer a roller cam ( I am one of those!)

Sit tight, guys will be along with plenty of info to help you out.

Again, good to see you here.

Originally Posted by States

I recently purchased a 1972 el Camino with a 350 that originally had a 2 bbl but was changed to a 600 cfm Holly. The previous owner also put in a Delta Cam for which I can get no information from the manufacturer, the guy I bought it from indicated that it has a duration of 278/288 and lift of 388/410. I would like to build this to 300hp +. I'm planning on headers and an Elderbrook Performer EPS intake.
Questions:
1 any comments on this cam from what info I have?
2 how can I get better performing heads without breaking the bank or are the stock ok.
3 I think I've got 8.5/1 compression ratio (stock) will this accomplish what I want or do I need to upgrade?

I'm retired and on an extremely tight budget!

1. Far too much cam for the static compression ratio. Motor needs 248 intake duration with that SCR, not 278.
2. You can't. No, they're not. Best affordable iron heads are the L31's. Read about them here....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._cylinder_head
3. 1972 was the first year of dismal static compression ratios, large piston crown dishes and awful combustion chambers. You will need to change pistons to make a base for power. Then you'll need some decent heads. How much can you afford for new or used aluminum heads?

With today's crummy fuels, iron-headed motors should be limited to no more than 9.5:1 SCR. Aluminum headed motors should be limited to 10.5:1.

Here are some other tutorials that you might enjoy reading....I wrote them for the Crankshaft Coalition Wiki....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...cooling_system
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._Dimitri_Elgin
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...m_combinations

.

First off you need to verify what you have, get the numbers from the pad at the rear of the drivers side of the block and post them here.

https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;...hs-mozilla-002

Click on identifying a Small Block Chevy-Image Results

welcome to chr states

States Welcome to CHR enjoy your stay and you will fined more info here than you can handle It will point you in the right direction for what you are after. Good luck with your build. I love El Camino's by the way

Still looking for numbers on the block. I found some stamped on a shelf under the alternator but they don't make sense to me. Top number is 1m1226 and below it is 1vp ?.

Originally Posted by States

Still looking for numbers on the block. I found some stamped on a shelf under the alternator but they don't make sense to me. Top number is 1m1226 and below it is 1vp ?.

If that is IM it's a 69 350 255hp with a powerglide tranny used in passenger cars and police applications.

Small Block Chevy Engine Codes - Page 4

If that's the casein happy, I was thinking it was a 72 with 175 horsepower. It is currently attached to a 350 turbo hydro tranny. Is there any way I can identify the heads to see if they are better than the 72's?

Originally Posted by States

If that's the casein happy, I was thinking it was a 72 with 175 horsepower. It is currently attached to a 350 turbo hydro tranny. Is there any way I can identify the heads to see if they are better than the 72's?

I don't assume anything so I'd pull both valve covers and write down the casting numbers and post them here. They're located pretty much in the center of the head and hopefully they are a matched pair.

I'll do that as soon as I can pick up new gaskets. If it is a 69 rather than a 72 the compression goes up to 9:1. Does this help the performance of my cam?

Originally Posted by States

I'll do that as soon as I can pick up new gaskets. If it is a 69 rather than a 72 the compression goes up to 9:1. Does this help the performance of my cam?

1972 was 44 years ago. This motor could have had parts mixed and matched and could have been worked over by dozens of different owners in that time, so any stamped numbers will probably be worthless by now. You can tell if the cam is coordinated with the static compression ratio by performing a cylinder pressure test. The test will also tell you if you have bad rings or bad valve seal, but at any rate, you need to know if the cylinders will make and hold pressure or not.
1. Run the motor until it gets to operating temperature.
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
3. Wire the primary throttle blades wide open so the motor can breathe.
4. Remove the coil hot wire from the coil to prevent a fire and remove the spark plugs to make the motor easier to turn over with the starter.
5. Use a screw-in compression gauge tester.
6. Have your buddy to operate the starter from inside the truck, while you change the tester hose from cylinder to cylinder and write down the compression results on paper, along with the cylinder number.
7. Let the motor go through at least 5 compression cycles on each cylinder to max the position of the needle on the test gauge.

.

I have a test button set up for spinning motors. 16AWG wire, about four foot long, with alligator clips.

I clip one to the battery positive, the other to the starter solenoid.

Push the button and the motor spins.

I finally got around to taking off the valve covers. The heads have three items embossed,,,front portion of head says hencho in Mexico, in the middle of the head is stamped GM12, near the rear of the head are these numbers, 83417369.....any help identifying these would be appreciated.

Picked up a screw in compression gauge and remote start button. Will do compression check this week.