Thread: carb qustion?

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I got a rebuilt 350 edellbrok performer heads mild cam, about 14 in. vac. @ 850 rpm sanderson block huggers 1"5/8, air gap manifold slayer 600 carb just wanted to know about squiter nozzels it comes with a 31 and has a stumble went to a 37 still has a stumble would it be normal to use a 41 with a hollow screw, will it need a 50cc upgrade does this sound like somthing a 350 would need?

Have you set the lean / rich screws could be accelerator pump?? good luck

new flame thrower dis. and coil set at 12 deg. idle screws set at max vac. 14 in. at 850 rpm. I guess i'm looking for conformation from some one that it's not unusual to bump up a accelerator pump that much on a 350.

Any chance you have been running ethanol blended gasoline? The accelerator pump rubber hates it on a stock edelbrock carb and makes it brittle and not seal an squirt right. Otherwise listen to Denny!

what is a slayer 600 carb ?.. my 850 double pumper holley on my 429 has only 31 squirters on it .. what you need to have is an instant gas shot the moment the throttle is moved ..there are several adjustments that can affect that .. the pre load on the pump .. the pump cam on the linkage .. the pump cam can be installed a couple of different ways .. you dont want the squirter squirting before the carb plates move .. in another words you dont want it pre loaded ...i love tuning carbs ,, you can have all the EFI you want ..

I've got a 72 chevy nova 307. Had a few mods done a few years back. Went to crank it up the other day and it wouldn't fire. Last time had it started it keep back firing. Got under the hood and the clamp holding the distributor had backed off and distributor was loose. Have took out distributor. Dropped it back in. Got engine on tdc and still can't get it to start? Acts like it wants too but never will. Checked the distributor for fire. Getting fire. Getting fuel. Need help please!!!!!!!

If you did the work the same way you typed it.. you probably got the distributor out of alignment.
This is one of those jobs that is easier for me to do it , than type ( or explain) it!
But, Pull the number 1 spark plug, have a helper crank / bump the engine over while you hold a finger in the hole of number 1 and as you feel the compression blow past, stop cranking. Then with a socket & ratchet on the crank bolt, ease the timing mark up to TDC.

Then raise the distributor cap and verify the rotor points to number 1 ( or very close to #1). If it's pointing to # 3 or 6 then it's 180 degrees out., undo the clamp and reset the dizzy to point to number 1. Use a timing light, with the vacuum hose pulled off the dizzy and plugged. Verify the timing is to spec.

HTH.

Sounds like you are leaving something out.

Why did you pull the dizzy? Seems to me you should have just rotated it back into position.

Anyway, it 34_40 has a good suggestion, 180 out is the first thing I'd check.

Thank you for your responses! I have a tdc spark plug tool I used to set to tdc. I put the distributor in. Didn't go completely down to start. Rotated cam and it fell right in. Point was towards spark plug one. Put everything back together and still won't crank. Does changing the cam do anything with the timing or the motor? I tried just rotating the distributor at first but never could get it to start

Doesn't crank? or CRANKS but won't start.?.?

That tool is helpful "IF" you are certain you are on the compression stroke. IF the motor is on the exhaust stroke, you'll never get it to run.