Thread: Wiring help!!!!!!!

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Hi, first off I'm new to this forum! Im 24 years old and I don't have much mechanic background in me. My Grandfather was a mechanic and also my uncles ... recently I got into it with a 350 sbc ! I built one brand new and working on the wiring. Now the vehicle is a JEEP. This is something my grandpa did and I loved his so now I'm all in.

So, what I want to do is run a separate harness for my ignition. Reason for this is because I'd like to go with a toggle switch/push button panel. Many folks have done this... but I'm running into some issues. I don't really clearly understand how this will work.

Can I run a separate "ignition switch" (being the panel?). I undertand how it works and what gets hooked up... starter, bat., ground(s) etc. My issue is the distributor ... where do I connect it or how can I? Can I run it just to the fuse box?

If anyone can help me out with some ideas... the reason I don't want to splice into the original Jeep harness is because I'm trying to eliminate it.

If you don't mind helping out or making suggestions that would be appreciated!

MAIN ISSUE: getting a 350 sbc to START off a toggle switch/push bottom panel!

Thanks,
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Hickey17
Respect Each New Sunrize!

Sounds fun, I always have a soft spot for Jeeps. The wiring should be pretty straight forward. For the dist, all you need to do is find a power source off your fuse box, run that to the toggle and run the toggle wire to the BATT terminal on the dist. I think the only other plug is for the Tach, they are both right by each other. The Starter should be a good heavy wire from the batt cable on your starter, to the push button and from the push button go to the S terminal on the starter. A couple things are it would be a good idea to put a fuseable link close to your power source for the starter button, any auto store should have one. It's like a normal looking wire only it will act as a fuse if you get a short in the wire. If you end up using a normal key and need power to the dist, make sure you use a source that does not loose power while cranking the engine such as wiper motor or heater fan or something. I made that mistake on my first one and the car would start the second I quit cranking cause the power would return then. Oh, and welcome to the forum

As he said above, and welcome to the forum.

Ok. If I write up a diagram and send it to this post will you look it over? I think I understand what you said. The only time I'd use a key is to start the acc. I'm going to keep all the wiring the same for now for: headlights, radio, and the rest of the accessories. I just want to have a panel separate for the ignition. Think it will help if someone tries to steal it or maybe not lol.

Thanks I really appreciate it !!!

I had a 64 C10 which I had jumped the headlight power to the ignition - it was just a quick fix until I had time to find the problem. But, it did act as an anti theft device, as one had to know the headlights had to be on to start. To give the starter some extra power, I'd get the engine spinning first, then turn on the lights and it would fire up.

Anyway, just an old story, not a suggestion.

just a suggestion, check out Centech wiring harnesses, the guy makes custom harnesses for everything including Jeeps, you tell him what you have and he will make it for you, especially if you dont have much wiring background or dont read schematic s very well, you could really use any and make it work but a universal harness is tougher if you havent done very much as it takes schematic comprehension to some extent. best of luck and have fun

Thanks for the response. But I'm no longer working with companies outside of Canada. The cost to have things made and shipped isn't worth the headache anymore at this point.

I believe it was explained good enough that I can do it. I'm not an electrician but understand basic. I also have other resources I can get. But thanks anyways.

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Hickey17
Respect Each New Sunrize

So, I made a diagram with what/how I understood what was said above. Can someone let me know if I got it right?

Thanks,


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Hickey17
Respect Each New Sunrize

you don't put power to the tach. clip that wire only goes to the tach. no power in just out...The orange wire you have from fuse box to switch and back to distributor should be #12....From the starter to the button and back to the starter should be #12 also. Be sure to get a heavy duty push button. Don't understand your 1V and 6V on drawing

You're making this too hard. Positive battery cable to the starter motor then a #12 from the positive post of the battery to your switch with a 20 amp inline fuse. Switch to push-button to "S" terminal in the starter solenoid. #14 (or larger) from energized side of the switch to the BAT term on the distributor. See below

Glenn

Well
I wasn't too far off lol and that tach cable was just showing it going from the dist to the tachometer not to the power. But Thanks guys I'll hopefully get this done this weekend! Long weekend (4 days) should have it ready !

I'll sure post again if I have anymore issues.

Sorry those were the wire siZes it should of said "#" or gauge not V

Sorry those were the wire siZes it should of said "#" or gauge not V

I found this panel from Jegs who I've been buying from lately. The only states company I use bcs of prices and shipping costs.

Does anyone have any recommendations or know this product ? Doesn't give specs on amps/voltage. But I'm sure it will work!?

That should work just fine and looks very trick as well.