Thread: Help Me Pick Some Heads For Christmas Present

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Saw this on San Francisco craigslist.....This would give you the L31 Vortec heads and short block with roller lifters and cam, providing a far superior platform for what you want to do for the price of bare heads (400 bucks). You would want to strip the heads and have them magnafluxed for cracks at a local machine shop, though. I would try to make some sort of deal with the fellow contingent upon the heads being crack-free. Replace the crank and one rod and you'd be into an L31 long block for cheap.
https://stockton.craigslist.org/pts/...403181469.html

Here is a set of heads only. Again, make a deal to magnaflux 'em before you pay all the money....
https://modesto.craigslist.org/pts/d...382689320.html

Here's a set in Sacremento, same deal on magnaflux....make a deal with the owner
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pt...399771238.html

There is no way to find a set of heads anywhere that will flow like the L31's for under $1000, so the best bet you have is to bite the bullet and purchase some used, then bring them up to fresh. Alex's Parts spring kit will allow more valve lift without any machine work.
https://www.alexsparts.com/valve-spr...rf-hyd-roller/

After exhaustive research, I found the cam that I would use.....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...00-8/overview/
It says computer controlled because it is ground on a 112 degree LSA, so it is just perfect for a carbureted motor that is looking for additional manifold vacuum for use with power brakes.
Use these roller hydraulic lifters....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-91164n

L31 heads will bring the SCR up to 9.4:1 and this cam will be just the ticket to match up. The Crane cam I was looking at originally was far too pricey, so I found this CompCam that will work even better, for less money.

If you were worried about the studs pulling up out of the head, here is an affordable solution that has been used by many fellows......
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-806g

P.S. Get the rail rocker arms and valve covers with the heads if you can. You cannot use guidelates without machining for screw-in studs and so stock L31 rail rockers are the cheap, easy solution.

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I really like the 12558060 GM Vortec Cylinder Heads. I have used them for many builds and right out of the box they are fine. I bought six of them at one time from Scoggin-Dickey with “free shipping” and the UPS driver really hated me for a while!

As to the press in versus screwed in studs – you will have no issues with pressed in studs with any reasonable valve train. Chevy used these heads on a lot of applications and the only time I have seen problems is when someone installs a monster lift cam beyond what the head was designed for. The rocker arm studs can be drilled and tapped 3/8" if you want to spend the money – but it is not necessary. Pinning is quite easy – use a cobalt 5/32" drill and rolled pins (available from Summit or probably your local parts house).

Use AC Delco R44TS or NGK BP5FS plugs with a .045 gap.

The Vortec heads require self-aligning rocker arms. Chevrolet Performance part number is 12495490 - Rocker Arms 1.5:1 Ratio 3/8'' Stud Self Aligning – about $100. I have also used COMP Cams roller-tip Magnum rockers 1.52:1 ratio (part number 1417-16). Almost twice the money and I’m pretty much with Richard that the stock ones are the best value as in this type of build the roller tip is bling only. Do not use 1.6:1.

You will need a Vortec manifold as well. I like the Chevrolet Performance 12496820 manifold and a 750 Quadrajet but it’s an expensive combination - $300-350 for the manifold and at least that much again for a decent Q-Jet. Maybe the heads for Christmas and intake/carb for an early birthday present?

Great thread - love your boy and make the memories.

Best,
Glenn

Originally Posted by glennsexton

I really like the 12558060 GM Vortec Cylinder Heads. I have used them for many builds and right out of the box they are fine. I bought six of them at one time from Scoggin-Dickey with “free shipping” and the UPS driver really hated me for a while!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Originally Posted by glennsexton

As to the press in versus screwed in studs – you will have no issues with pressed in studs with any reasonable valve train. Chevy used these heads on a lot of applications and the only time I have seen problems is when someone installs a monster lift cam beyond what the head was designed for. The rocker arm studs can be drilled and tapped 3/8" if you want to spend the money – but it is not necessary. Pinning is quite easy – use a cobalt 5/32" drill and rolled pins (available from Summit or probably your local parts house).

With screw-in studs, the expensive part is having the machine shop mill down the head front to back to allow for the thickness of the head of the screw-in studs and the thickness of the guideplates. Otherwise, if you screw the studs in without milling the head, valve train geometry is out the window. Press-in studs have no head height to allow for, but without the head, you have no way to retain a guideplate. So, you either go with pressed-in studs and guided rockers or you go with screw-in studs and guideplates. You cannot use both guided rockers AND guideplates. Something will break.

As I said before, try to get the rail rockers and the covers when you buy the heads, if you buy them used.

Originally Posted by glennsexton

Use AC Delco R44TS or NGK BP5FS plugs with a .045 gap.

Originally Posted by glennsexton

The Vortec heads require self-aligning rocker arms. Chevrolet Performance part number is 12495490 - Rocker Arms 1.5:1 Ratio 3/8'' Stud Self Aligning – about $100. I have also used COMP Cams roller-tip Magnum rockers 1.52:1 ratio (part number 1417-16). Almost twice the money and I’m pretty much with Richard that the stock ones are the best value as in this type of build the roller tip is bling only. Do not use 1.6:1.

I would advise against the Comp Magnum roller tip rockers.
1. It's the fulcrum that needs a roller, not the tip. Poor engineering in my opinion.
2. I have seen these rockers turn blue from the friction generated at the fulcrum. How is that a good thing?

Originally Posted by glennsexton

You will need a Vortec manifold as well. I like the Chevrolet Performance 12496820 manifold and a 750 Quadrajet but it’s an expensive combination - $300-350 for the manifold and at least that much again for a decent Q-Jet. Maybe the heads for Christmas and intake/carb for an early birthday present?

The 12496820 looks like a low-rise intake. The one to use, I would think, would be the high-rise 12366573. It has been dyno-proven time after time that a high-rise, dual-plane intake manifold will make more power 1500 to 6000 than any other manifold design. If money were no object, I would choose the 12366573 at a height of 5.400". If money were an issue, I'd back off to either the Weiand 8502 at 4.730" or the Edelbrock 7116 at 4.720". I would also use two intake gaskets with a 1" phenolic or wooden spacer and top the carburetor with a 14" diameter by 4" thick air filter assembly to allow the motor to breathe.

I would begin hitting craigslist for a used intake manifold, one of the 3 listed above.

Originally Posted by glennsexton

Great thread - love your boy and make the memories.

12366573 is a square bore flange. 12496820 will take either square or spread. I think both are good manifolds. The 12496820 works well where hood clearance can be an issue, probably not a concern with a truck.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Saw this on San Francisco craigslist.....This would give you the L31 Vortec heads and short block with roller lifters and cam, providing a far superior platform for what you want to do for the price of bare heads (400 bucks). You would want to strip the heads and have them magnafluxed for cracks at a local machine shop, though. I would try to make some sort of deal with the fellow contingent upon the heads being crack-free. Replace the crank and one rod and you'd be into an L31 long block for cheap.
https://stockton.craigslist.org/pts/...403181469.html

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OK I'll bite. I've been wondering if money would be better spent with a modern engine swap but my head spins with all the options and details. If you guys are here to help I could definitely be talked into it.

I'll start with some questions regarding this guys engine,

1. With a spun rod bearing I would think there had to been some collateral damage other than crank and the one rod. Wouldn't there be a very good chance that the cylinder wall and piston are damaged? If so then a complete rebuild is in order which makes this less of a deal. What other potential damage should I be looking for?
2. From your perspective what would be the best case scenario cost to get this motor up and running? How about worst case scenario cost?
3. Would I want to run this with the stock EFI or carbureted?
4. What else besides the ECM and fly-by-wire throttle body would I want to make sure to grab with motor?
5. I'm assuming I could run this with our current TH350, what would I need other than a new flex plate?
6. What else should I be considering or factoring into the decision

This guy is about 2.5 hrs from us so it would be a roll of the dice on the heads not being cracked as the time involved to have someone check them would be a serious hassle. He's out by Angle's Camp which is boonies, no reputable shops out there to look at the heads anyway so you'd have to do some serious legwork to get them back n forth. Bottom line is that it would be a gamble and I'd need to determine what the cost to repair the heads would be and factor that in.

BTW, none of the summit racing links to the lifters and cam are working for me.

Originally Posted by glennsexton

I really like the 12558060 GM Vortec Cylinder Heads. I have used them for many builds and right out of the box they are fine. I bought six of them at one time from Scoggin-Dickey with “free shipping” and the UPS driver really hated me for a while!

As to the press in versus screwed in studs – you will have no issues with pressed in studs with any reasonable valve train. Chevy used these heads on a lot of applications and the only time I have seen problems is when someone installs a monster lift cam beyond what the head was designed for. The rocker arm studs can be drilled and tapped 3/8" if you want to spend the money – but it is not necessary. Pinning is quite easy – use a cobalt 5/32" drill and rolled pins (available from Summit or probably your local parts house).

Use AC Delco R44TS or NGK BP5FS plugs with a .045 gap.

The Vortec heads require self-aligning rocker arms. Chevrolet Performance part number is 12495490 - Rocker Arms 1.5:1 Ratio 3/8'' Stud Self Aligning – about $100. I have also used COMP Cams roller-tip Magnum rockers 1.52:1 ratio (part number 1417-16). Almost twice the money and I’m pretty much with Richard that the stock ones are the best value as in this type of build the roller tip is bling only. Do not use 1.6:1.

You will need a Vortec manifold as well. I like the Chevrolet Performance 12496820 manifold and a 750 Quadrajet but it’s an expensive combination - $300-350 for the manifold and at least that much again for a decent Q-Jet. Maybe the heads for Christmas and intake/carb for an early birthday present?

Great thread - love your boy and make the memories.

Best,
Glenn

Glenn this is valuable info, thank you!
I hear a lot of internet chatter about using threaded studs and was wondering if its overkill for most mild street builds, thanks for confirming that for me.

Does anyone know how to rid myself of Vigilink?????
.

Nucking: dollar for dollar, unless you have a VERY good friend with a machine shop, AND access to swap meets: buy a wrecked car with complete, good drivetrain. Scrap/part out what you don't need and break even, or maybe come out plus a few dollars. Now you're only out of pocket for the installation, PLUS you have a stock motor and no problem getting parts, or having it serviced.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Does anyone know how to rid myself of Vigilink?????
.

https://www.viglink.com/opt-out/

Thank you Glenn.
.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Thank you Glenn.
.

You're welcome - those things drive me nuts. When someone hijacks with a redirect that's one sure way to guarantee I'll never use anything they're pimping.

Was this some kind of computer virus? Ugh!
Were you able to get it scrubbed?

Hey as far as that L31 motor, I called the guy and talked with him a bit and it doesn't sound like something I want to get into. There's more damage than just the one bearing, sounds like other bearings are going or are on their way out. In any case I liked the idea and would still be open to L31, LM7, LS1, LQ9, etc. deals out there if it makes sense.

I've got to be down in SoCal for business in the next week and found this guy in the area selling some gear. Does anything on his list look like a good deal to investigate?
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/...376597783.html

Originally Posted by Nuckingfuts

Was this some kind of computer virus? Ugh!
Were you able to get it scrubbed?

Yes, if you will scroll back up to post 16, you can now click on the Summit links.....

Originally Posted by Nuckingfuts

Hey as far as that L31 motor, I called the guy and talked with him a bit and it doesn't sound like something I want to get into. There's more damage than just the one bearing, sounds like other bearings are going or are on their way out. In any case I liked the idea and would still be open to L31, LM7, LS1, LQ9, etc. deals out there if it makes sense.

Yep, makes perfect sense.

Originally Posted by Nuckingfuts

I've got to be down in SoCal for business in the next week and found this guy in the area selling some gear. Does anything on his list look like a good deal to investigate?
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/...376597783.html

Although I know nothing at all about the electronics involved in swapping a late model EFI motor into an earlier body, this is the deal I'd be lookin' at.

5.3 & 4l60e complete $1625

For the benefits involved, I'd figure out the wiring and additional components required somehow. No cam to buy. No converter to buy. No intake manifold to buy. Heck, with this motor up front, I might even leave the 3.08 in the diff because the stock 5.3 cam wouldn't be in the way of gas mileage for cruising. This could be a win/win/win, even adding to the value of the truck when sell time rolls around. Never say never.

I'll share this with you and maybe you could even sidetrack the posi unit. It's an old drag racing trick.

When a front-motor, rear-drive vehicle accelerates, the right rear and left front get light due to the way the chassis flexes corner to corner. The left rear and the right front get heavy. That's why you always see the right rear skinnin' rubber and the left rear gettin' traction, because the right rear is light and the left rear is heavy. It's also why you see the left front coming up on launch at the dragstrip on cars whose owners/tuners haven't figured this out yet. There are a couple of low-cost ways to help this. First, move the battery/batteries to the EXTREME right rear of the vehicle. I'm talking in the extreme corner of the bed, or in a fabricated tray under the corner of the bed. The heavier the battery/batteries, the better the results. Run 2-0 welding cable from the battery to the starter with a 2-0 ground cable attached to the frame at the rear. Welding cable works better than any other kind of cable for transferring power due to the multitude of wires and the size of the wire. Use insulated Adel clamps on the frame every 12 inches to secure the cable.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....2Bat%2BIuL.jpg

The other part of the fix involves installing an air shock on the right rear only. Run the air line from the shock out to a Shrader valve on the rear bumper so you can add or delete air from the shock without getting dirty. Keep a quality air pressure gauge in the glove box and adjust the shock following repeated trial launches on dry, smooth pavement. Adjusted properly, this arrangement will result in two equally long black stripes on the pavement. On some applications, this will jack the right rear of the bed up a little bit more than the left side of the bed. This can be adjusted to level with the weight of the battery/batteries.

Fuel delivery can be addressed with either an in-tank pump that you add to your tank or with an externally-mounted pump mounted close to the tank with a filter. If you use an external pump, I would cobble up a rubber-mounted arrangement and make it part of the battery mount at the back. DO NOT LET ANY PART OF THE PUMP TOUCH ANY METAL PART OF THE TRUCK. The vibration will set up a drone noise in the cab that will make you crazy. Also, isolate the lines that go into and out of the pump with non-metal connections.

There's another 500 bucks saved over the cost of a posi unit.

posi.......$500
gears.......300
converter 600
cam....... 700

Plus, you can offset the cost of the LS1 by selling off the motor and trans that are in the truck now.

Cobble up a transmission crossmember and some motor mounts (or I'm sure somebody makes them) and you're in. Lean on Inland Empire for a driveshaft. You may want to read through their site, they have some pretty good info....
https://www.iedls.com/

https://www.amazon.com/Swap-Engines-...ords=LS1+swaps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1613250932...512332395&sr=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760336091...512332489&sr=2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1557885664...512332489&sr=3

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

5.3 & 4l60e complete $1625

For the benefits involved, I'd figure out the wiring and additional components required somehow. No cam to buy. No converter to buy. No intake manifold to buy. Heck, with this motor up front, I might even leave the 3.08 in the diff because the stock 5.3 cam wouldn't be in the way of gas mileage for cruising. This could be a win/win/win, even adding to the value of the truck when sell time rolls around. Never say never.

.

I dropped this guy a line and his current pick of the litter on the 5.3's is an LM7 '03 with 103k. He accepted an offer of $1500 which seems like a fair deal for the mileage/year if everything checks out. I'll need to crash the boards tonight to get myself up to speed on what to know and look for when evaluating a pulled motor like this (which I've never done before). Any coaching tips?

Wow, it just clicked: those cool mooneyes tanks that got mounted to the front bumper: that provided positive fuel feed at launch, didn't it?

Hell, all this time I thought it was just a fad.

Not completely non sequitur: it somehow clicked when tech was advising fuel pumps.