Thread: Installing an HEI problems

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I’m having trouble wit the installation of a new hei distributor from speedway. It’s going in a SB327 and I had it fireing and running using a hot wire from the ignition switch. I couldn’t advance the timing as the vacuum advance hits the intake. I was told to move it a tooth and try again. I did get it to fire, backfire, blow up and all kinds of stuff but not run. I then started all over , checked tdc and re-installed everything and even ran a hot directly from the battery. It does turn over really nice and smooth unlike it before but it won’t fire at all now. I have gas sand 12-10 volts while turning at the distributor. Any ideas???

Are you SURE you have distributor rotor lined up with the number one terminal of the cap, with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke of the number one cylinder?

It sounds like you either have the timing way off, or you crossed some of the plug wires.

Originally Posted by Driver50x

Are you SURE you have distributor rotor lined up with the number one terminal of the cap, with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke of the number one cylinder?

It sounds like you either have the timing way off, or you crossed some of the plug wires.

I’m no expert but, I think I do. I tdc the motor, aligned the distributor to the number one cylinder, turned and back turned the motor to drop on the oil pump shaft, then re connected the wires and double checked the sequence and followed every wire to each cylinder to double check. The only question I have is the cap will only fit on one way right, there’s a small notch that it aligns up with. I did have trouble where there was no firing until I stuck the tester prob into the battery terminal and then it fired like crap as I must have been way off. I can’t believe how much trouble I have doing this each time. I installed and uninstalled a Petronix 5-6 times on this engine, it worked great for a 3 hours ride then died, so I went back to the original points

See if this post helps you.
Distributor Install Help

I did a quick search (top right of page) for "installing distributor" there's a full page of results, it's been written about many times.

I think you're 180 degrees out. remember the crank rotates twice to the distributor rotating once. So you must verify that #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke.
easiest way to do that (for me) is to pull the spark plug from the head and have someone "bump" the starter while holding my finger over the plug hole.
When I feel the air pushing out, stop and manually turn the crank to align the timing marks, then install the dizzy in the desired position. If it won't drop in, I use a large long screwdriver to align the oil pump so the dizzy falls in. You can see the slot when looking into the motor, turn it slightly and try to drop the dizzy in. Some guys like to turn the motor back or forward, I just found it easier to spin the pump connection to where I needed it.

well I found half my problem, the red wire that connects the HEI to the HEI on the outside???? came out of its groove, was still in the connector but not making contact. Once I figured that out it fired alright like a machine gun my son said!!! So once I had help again instead of being lazy and lining the mark up WE found TDC and my rotor was pointing at the passenger. I was 180 off, exactly what you said !! Son it fired right up and I hand tuned the timing and it sounds like a brand new beast purring like a kitten. I tightened everything down and took it for a ride and now it’s popping and sounding like it did with the points. Also my vacuum canister is almost back on the fire wall too far to hook up the tube!! So does this mean I’m a tooth off?

Also I almost forgot, the timing mark is tdc of the motor no where near the 0 on the gauge. What problems would cause this

Originally Posted by illfixit

Also I almost forgot, the timing mark is tdc of the motor no where near the 0 on the gauge. What problems would cause this

Do you know any details or info on this engine? How many miles etc? It sounds like your harmonic balancer outer ring has moved/slipped and that is why your timing mark is off at the crank. It almost sounds like you have a timing chain/sprocket issue with what you're describing.

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Also, have you ever attempted to measure the amount of slack in the timing chain?

Basically, turn the engine in one direction, stop turning when the mark on the harmonic balancer is about to "fall off" the timing tab. ( basically it means to turn the balancer until you almost run out of marks on the tab.) Then have a helper watch the rotor while you turn the crank backwards from the previous rotation.

Once the rotor starts turning, stop and count the lines on the tab. If you get more than 2 marks, consider changing the timing chain and gears, if you get 5 or more - don't hesitate, change the chain and gears.

Also, there numerous combinations of pointers and balancers just in stock SBC parts. Throw in the aftermarket, and your timing marks can literally be anywhere even with no chain issues.

If the chain and balancer are good, then you most likely have a bad parts combination.

You could look for slack In the timing chain by looking at the dizzy rotor while rocking the engine back and forth. (Put a ratchet on the crank bolt). If you have a significant amount of crank movement without rotor movement, then you have a slack timing chain. You could also try a vacuum gauge on the manifold, you have some symptoms of a vacuum leak.