Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree20Likes
  • 2 Post By
  • 1 Post By
  • 5 Post By
  • 3 Post By wrp
  • 1 Post By zippi
  • 1 Post By
  • 1 Post By
  • 1 Post By

Thread: *350 sbc Valve Ajustment*
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    wrp's Avatar
    wrp
    wrp is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Plano
    Posts
    687

    I agree with Denny. I wrestled with this a long time. Found out of 1,000 videos on you tube, 999 were wrong. The advice above is spot on. One thing I would do and you may not like it, is pull the intake, the push rods and the lifters, check the pushrods for straightness, check the lifters to see if one is excessively worn. I would also check the valve geometry and the rocker arms plus the rocker arm studs. The reason I suggest this is the lack of success you are claiming using reasonable techniques. If something is worn ie cam lobe, push rods, etc. it will never work out. Another suggestion is to look up Blackstone Labs, get an oil sample test kit and send a sample to them. They will tell you straight away, normally in a couple of days, if there is some excessive wear in your valve train or components. The solution to mine was replace the lifters, push rods plus the rocker arms, and rebuild the engine which was full of metal shavings. The advantage was by catching it I was able to not destroy the engine. The rocker arm studs were screw in so they were okay but I did replace the locknuts. At the end of the day the solution was to tighten them more than I thought because of my inexperience. This is just an opinion with an objective to support what the guys above are saying. It was only my experience.

    IMG_1078.jpgIMG_1082.jpgIMG_1080.jpgBroken IMG_1054 (1).jpg
    Last edited by wrp; 11-10-2018 at 10:08 PM.
    NTFDAY, DennyW and 40FordDeluxe like this.

  2. #2
    zippi's Avatar
    zippi is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Evansville
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1937 Ford Pickup
    Posts
    43

    Ok guys.....here is the update on adjusting my valves. I adjusted the valves per the procedure below. I set both the intake and exhaust valves at .020 cold. I'll be damned if it don't run like it did before I started adjusting the valves. So far I am a happy camper. I let it get a little warm and took it out for a run. I didn't get on it to hard but man does it pull and sound like it did before. When I got back I listened to the engine and like before it has some engine noise which now since I know it's not hydraulic I'm fine with it . I did hear something on the right bank that sounded like an exhaust tic. I'll investigate that further tomorrow but for now I'm satisfied. Thanks for all the input.

    Get #1 to Top Dead Center

    Exh.- 1 – 3 – 4 -8​
    Int.- 1- 2 – 5 - 7 ​

    Get #6 to Top Dead Center

    Exh.- 2 – 5 – 6 – 7​
    Int.- 3 – 4- 6 - 8​
    36 sedan likes this.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink