Thread: Can't Stop Smoking!
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06-17-2004 03:34 PM #16
Originally posted by makeitarat
water in a radiator homie.... h2o in your gas....
jus messin wit ya
I know...I know....just drink your di-hydrogen oxide, Firechicken and shuddup. But you know......that stuff is actually pretty bad, here are just a few examples of why we should ban it heheh.....
Causes excessive sweating and vomiting
A major component of acid rain
Can cause severe burns in the gaseous state
Accidental inhalation can kill you
Primary contributor to erosion
Decreases effectiveness of a Hot Rod's brakes
Has been found in tumors of terminal cancer patients
May dissolve metal ions (like the ones in your Hot Rod) especially in the presence of road salt
Cheers,
Firechicken
Oh and by the way I promise I'll stop hi-jackin' the thread now...heheh.Sometimes NOW are the "good old days"...
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06-17-2004 07:29 PM #17
Originally posted by BlueDSM
Gapless rings aren't really an option, theyre only good on low performance applications, on high compression engines - and specifically boosted engines - you get ring flutter...Not good at all.
http://www.totalseal.com/testimonials.htmlLast edited by viking; 06-21-2004 at 09:13 PM.
Objects in the mirror are losing
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06-17-2004 07:36 PM #18
Last edited by viking; 06-17-2004 at 07:40 PM.
Objects in the mirror are losing
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06-17-2004 07:36 PM #19
Hard to say about the gapless rings...never used them. I don't pay too much attention to the "sales ads" since these guys get paid to advertise race products.
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06-17-2004 07:50 PM #20
One more thought about the rings, you didn't "spiral" them on to the piston when you were installing them did you? It seems if I remember right, spiraling them could lead to problems similar to this. I would imagine that if that is the problem, a blower boost would only aggravate the situation.Sometimes NOW are the "good old days"...
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06-17-2004 08:10 PM #21
Nope...used a ring spreader. I did spiral the oil scrapers on though, but those are thin and flexible. Never had trouble with those before.
So do you think if I can get some vacuum on the crankcase and drop the blower I could get them rings to seat?
Also, what oil should I be using to break this thing in? I'm currently using a non-synthentic 10W-30. Maybe go to straight 30 weight?
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06-18-2004 08:27 AM #22
Originally posted by streets
Any BLONDES wanna take a stab at this one??
Apparently you didn't "break-in" the engine @3500 rpm's for 20-25 minutes which is a common practice applied by "hot rodders" and "street smart" builders, before puttin' them in the vehicle...
http://www.idavette.net/hib/eng-brkn.htm
http://www.aera.org/Consumer/breakin.htm
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Info..._break-in.html
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06-22-2004 11:53 PM #23
Well, problem solved. Mad and Blue are the winners!!! Oil seals not doing their job. Go figure...they were brand new (from what I could tell). I purchased the heads used, but they had been rebuilt with all new parts and a fresh grind. When I replaced the springs, the teflon seals looked perfect (although I did not pull them off). So, all I can figure is that they were not installed properly (possibly cut from sliding over the top of the valve) or they were the wrong size. The thing that really blows my mind is that it actually used that much oil...all from simple little valve seals. I would have never guessed. Even the machinist said it seemed impossible unless the guides were totally worn out and the valves were wobbling...but wasn't the case here.
Thanks to all of you who offered input!
tj
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06-23-2004 08:35 AM #24
Originally posted by Streets
When installing Teflon seals, they come with a small plastic sleeve...
Getting closer on this project. What a lot of work!
Stude M5 build