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Thread: 283 build questions
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Sgrinder's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 64 Impala SS, 82 f100
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    Cool 283 build questions

     



    Started assembly of my 283 rebuild. Heads are reworked power pack heads, shaved .005, bore +.060, flat top pistons with valve reliefs, Edlebrock 2102 cam.

    Would there be a problem running CramCams stamped roller rockers 1:5 and no valve guides? Push rod slots are small.

    Compression issues with pump gas?

    The damper was a small flat pulley mount with no thick damper ring.
    Not sure is this is a cludge job on the damper. I have a 327 three spoke damper. Will it work?

    Where is the temperature sensor?? There was nothing in the heads or the block and don't see a hole for it..

  2. #2
    Sgrinder's Avatar
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    Books

     



    Streets,
    Books were not much help. Nothing I didn't already know. Used to know more, but now old enough to forget. Maybe you will get there some day.

  3. #3
    Sgrinder's Avatar
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    csf03716 ,

    Thanks, sure send some pics. Did you replace the body to frame rubber mounts? Makes a big difference.
    The temp sensor was not there cause the numbers on the intake indicate it has been replaced with a vette cast iron q-jet intake. This will have to go. Putting on an edelbrock.
    Don't have a clue and proud of it.
    Older is better.

  4. #4
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    that is a crossfire intake.....you may want to reconsider swaping it out.
    Jim

  5. #5
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Ford Roadster/26 T Sedan
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    I have a set of Power Pack heads in the shop. My machinest tells me they need hardened seats. Running old heads with unleaded gas is problematic. The lead acted as a valve lubricant. Take away the lubricant and the valves eat their way into the soft cast iron. The fix is hardened seats. He quoted $30 each or $480 for the job. You can get a set of street replacement heads that flow better for that kind of money.

    If anyone wants my Power Pack heads I'll take $100 for the pair.
    An Old California Rodder
    Hiding Out In The Ozarks

  6. #6
    Sgrinder's Avatar
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    Had the heads redone with hardened seats and new valves , keepers, and springs for 230. (East Coast)

    Also have another iron intake with the egr stuff blocked off.
    Will double ck the numbers on both.
    Don't have a clue and proud of it.
    Older is better.

  7. #7
    vettestr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 Cobray-C3
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    The 283 is cool but gotta say inches are even better. The only exception for meis the sweet sound of a SB's instant RPM wind up. The problem with all the high RPM stuff is the parts needed to live there and what it hurts when they let go at 8000 RPM. The money it takes to support the short stroke/high RPM is spendy. Meet some middle ground and go with 327 --- you get forged crank and rods and little more inches but still buzzes up especially injected like few others. a 302 build is also pretty nice and only pistons are needed to make the combo work. Have fun with your build it sounds like you are going to have a screamer.
    Jeff C.
    Manufacturer of the Cobray-C3
    www.cobrasnvettes.com

  8. #8
    Sgrinder's Avatar
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    The car came with a 283 so yea, Ill stay with it. Wake it up a bit, its a cruiser or parts getter. Rebuild keeps me busy and then look for a project ol skool rod. One project at a time.

    csf03716, did you send any pics?
    Don't have a clue and proud of it.
    Older is better.

  9. #9
    Sgrinder's Avatar
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    ANyone used a two piece timing cover? Now the water pump wont clear the cover.
    Don't have a clue and proud of it.
    Older is better.

  10. #10
    Sgrinder's Avatar
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    Beware, problem with the 2 piece timing cover is the fit. Called Mr Gasket and sure enough there is a QC probelm and I was told to take it back to the store and they have had complaints. problem is it was a gift. Junked it and went with the stock.
    Don't have a clue and proud of it.
    Older is better.

  11. #11
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    you may want to have your machine shop tap the crank and get a streetdamnpner or fluiddamnpner depends on the radical-ness.........scooter p.s i have a 283 bored .125 over is fine on the street 12:5-1 compression no issues and yes i do have msd 6-al with a pro billet distributor....my 2 cents lol...............scooter <again>

  12. #12
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 59 Corvette 283/270 69 C10 Stepside 355
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    Early small blocks up to about 69 used the short legged water pump. Most 2 piece or cast timing covers need a long water pump for clearance. I just used a chrome steel one on my currant 355 engine project for the '69 truck and had to grind off a little of the lip on the stamped cover on the back of the water pump to get it to fit. The reason I stayed with the short pump was that all of the other pullys and p/s and alt mounts that came with this basketcase project were for a short pump.

    Tom

  13. #13
    Sgrinder's Avatar
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    Stayed with the short pump and stock cover. Simpler to avoid the pulleys and p/s headaches.
    Lets see. I have a picture around here somewhere.
    Don't have a clue and proud of it.
    Older is better.

  14. #14
    Sgrinder's Avatar
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    Currently running a Q-Jet. Anyone tried an Edelbrock carb?
    Heard they are easier to tune.
    Don't have a clue and proud of it.
    Older is better.

  15. #15
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    its my expierience that every edelbrock ive seen leaks. q jets work better then edelbrocks but holley is best. just my opinion ...................scooter

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