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Thread: Roadster Shop Chassis Dimensions?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Hotrod Roger is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jun 2004
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    Charleston
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1932 Ford Tudor
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    14

    Roadster Shop Chassis Dimensions?

     



    I have a Roadster Shop '32 chassis that measures 23 3/8" across the front frame horns and 39 1/2" at the rear frame horns. These measurements are 3/8" - 1/2" narrower than a stock 32 frame. This makes it impossible to install stock width spreader bars. Has anyone else run into this? My chassis was shipped without the spreader bars- I think I know why...

  2. #2
    deuce4papa is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Apr 2005
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    Ardmore
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Ford
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    255

    Are all the other dimensions across the firewall and body mounting locations correct? Sounds like the frame moved in after releasing it from the frame jig after welding in the boxing plates and crossmembers.

  3. #3
    Hotrod Roger is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jun 2004
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    Charleston
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1932 Ford Tudor
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    I'm getting ready to pull the body back off the chassis and check all of the measurements. The chassis is off in several places. The center tubular crossmembers were welded in 1/4 inch off left to right, but the side rails measure square within a 1/8 inch. In addition, the top front tubular crossmember is 1/2" higher than the side rails. This wouldn't have been so bad if the crossmember would have aliened with the channel in the floor board, but it didn't come close. I wasn't expecting the width of the chassis to be off- at least not that far. I didn't catch it until I tried to install the spreader bars (which are stainless). Now I have to fabricate steel bars and have them chromed. I could spread the rails but I'm building it as a highboy and would really stand out.

  4. #4
    Uptown83's Avatar
    Uptown83 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sep 2004
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    Las Cruces
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1933 3w Coupe, 1932 5w Coupe
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    98

    Im in the process of rebuilding my entire car. When i build my chassis 4 years ago I didnt know much what i was doing and now im paying for that. My chassis was out of level and square so lining up the trunk lid and doors were hell and the back window was crooked, I finally found out the problem was in my chassis. I used a original 33 frame.. A month ago i bought new frame rails and made my own jig. I can really see a HUGE difference now form switching frames. The body went back together so easy and pretty much aligned it self. But frame squareness is very important I see now.

  5. #5
    hb32 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Dec 2004
    Location
    Surrey
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Ford Roadster
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    29

    Instead of going the steel/ chrome route... have you thought of using stainless? I bought a length of 2 inch diameter and 1/12 inch diameter heavy wall tubing, some flat stock. A little drilling, welding, polishing and they won`t rust and should stay fairly clean. Just my 2 cents. Roger

  6. #6
    Hotrod Roger is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1932 Ford Tudor
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    Since I already have the stainless spreader bars I may try to shorten them. How hard is stainless to weld? I have access to a MIG- what type of wire do I need? Thanks....

  7. #7
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
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    Stainless welds just fine, but you would be better off having it tig welded. Lots better looking on the finished product. JMO
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