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Thread: Please post some roadster windshield pics
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    joeybsyc's Avatar
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    Please post some roadster windshield pics

     



    I spend last night looking at my billet windshield posts on the 32 roadster, and still can't convince myself that stock 32 lower stanchions won't fall in a location that will cover the footprint/holes of these other posts if i remove them...I wish i had a stock windshield 32 sitting beside my car to compare with, but I don't, so you guys are the next best thing... Could I ask some of you folks with highboys to post a couple close up pics of your windshield posts and where they mount to the cowl? I just visually want to compare to my own car. A measurement from the door edge to the closest part of the stanchion might help too, and distance from the top of the beltline to the bottom of the stanchion...in addition to some side view close up pictures... I'd really appriciate it... If paint work is a definite in order to change this thing, i'm gonna forget about it until next fall and drive the car as it is for the summer... but if i can potentially do it as a "bolt on" project, i think the car would look alot better.

  2. #2
    C9x's Avatar
    C9x
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    Perhaps this will help.
    Attached Images
    C9

  3. #3
    joeybsyc's Avatar
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    Thanks, Can you tell me if there would be any forward/backward/up/down adjustment to where the stanchions would mount, or is it totally dictated by where the windshield must sit on the cowl, essentially giving you only one single location to mount the stanchions? Just judging from pics, it looks to me like it would work... Dave Brisco mentioned that the lower bolts for the billet posts i have (shown below) are about 1/2" above the bottom edge of the post...
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  4. #4
    C9x's Avatar
    C9x
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    The 32 windshield stanchion is mounted with two bolts.
    The upper (larger) bolt can be pivoted and the lower clamps it down if the lower hole is ovalled - as many of the leaned back Deuce roadster windshields are.

    Before you get into mounting the stanchions, you're gonna need the windshield frame so you can set the height between cowl eybrow (the ridge under the windshield) and underneath side of the windshield.
    You'll have to allow for the "T" shaped windshield weatherstripping as well.

    You definitiely want the weatherstrip, othewise rain water will go between windshield frame and eyebrow onto the dash and into your lap.

    Roadsters do fairly well in moderate rain, the rain goes up and over the windshield at highway speeds.
    Slowing down can get rain in your face, but no big deal.

    It would be nice if the 32 stanchion would go over the holes left by the billet posts, but probably not.
    Any good paint shop can re-paint the area or paint the whole cowl if necessary to hide the bodywork if holes are filled.
    C9

  5. #5
    Mel Chave's Avatar
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    This is the only photo i have of my windsheild stanchions close up. I chopped mine 3" . I had to mess around quite a bit to get the frame and the body to fit nicely together. I think you will find nothing will line up.
    The biggest problem for me was getting the lower edge of the frame to sit nice on the cowl while the stanchions wanted to bolt down in another slightly different postion. So as you can see a lot of filling was required.
    I can get you more photos if you require. But you will definately need the frame when fitting the stanchions.
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    Last edited by Mel Chave; 11-09-2006 at 03:47 PM.

  6. #6
    joeybsyc's Avatar
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    Thanks Mel...I assumed that the rubber flap under the frame would compensate for any misalignment of the contour of the frame to the cowl... would you have had light under the rubber without filling where you filled? How did you go about the process, did you bolt the stanchions and upper posts to the frame before fitting the whole assembly to the body? What type of windshield (if any) did you have on the car prior to installing this one? Looks like my best bet may be to just drive it with the one i have for the summer, and take it to a paint shop to have the stock one installed and any hole filling/cutom fitting/repainting done as required... i was hoping it would be an easy swap with no paintwork or hassles involved, but I'm starting to loose hope that will be the case. Here's a couple better pics of where mine is mounted, both sides... hard to tell for sure if the old holes would be covered by the stock stanchions or not... whaddaya think?
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    Last edited by joeybsyc; 11-09-2006 at 04:21 PM.

  7. #7
    C9x's Avatar
    C9x
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    Judging from the stanchions on my car, it doesn't look like you'll be able to cover the original billet frame holes.

    Looking at Mel's very nice roadster, maybe.

    Reason I say that is, Mel's windshield is tipped further back than is mine.
    If you duplicated Mel's windshield tilt-back or maybe went a touch further - but not too far - you may be able to do it.

    Key thing is the bottom of the windshield frame has to be over the cowl eyebrow.

    It may be an optical illusion, but the stanchion bases on Mel's roadster look to be a little fatter than mine.
    C9

  8. #8
    fourty1's Avatar
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    SEZZ Joey,..
    The close ups photos of fit & finish of your new rod is remarkable.
    I can't offer suggestions except to say , Go drive it, there are going to be plenty of ' things to do ' in the future.
    Really nice unit.
    41

  9. #9
    joeybsyc's Avatar
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    Thanks Fourty... and everyone else who has been kind enough to help me so far as well... Overall I am very happy with my purchase... I hate to admit it, but I bought this car from photos... I was all set to make the trip to go see it and decided that the expense it would cost me to go kick the tires could better be spent on making additions and changes to the car once i got it... it was a nervous week or so, but the seller was very honest and upfront about everything and a top notch guy to deal with. This was the 4th 32 he's built with his son for enjoyment. I have a short laundry list of things that aren't quite right visually with the car, including a hood top that seems to have a small bend in the rear, and a door latch that is a bit hard to close on the driver's side, but overall the work seems to be top notch, and admittedly probably better than I could have done myself if i were to follow through with my original idea to buy a chassis and body and do it myself. It's true you can't build a car for the price you can buy one for... its just little stuff that you'd have done differently that you have to deal with when buying someone else's idea of the way a car should look. I have yet to drive it more than tha 1000 feet from the hauler to my garage, so i may have a totally different view of things when i actually start driving it, but hopefully it will drive as nice as it looks. Right now the odometer is reading 000003 miles. I hope to bump that 3 a few places to the left next summer! Here's a few more detail pics of the car I took today. -Joe
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    Last edited by joeybsyc; 11-09-2006 at 09:23 PM.

  10. #10
    fourty1's Avatar
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    Here's a thought, Joey,.
    Ask the Builder to help you with the windshield change/ mod. etc..
    HE WOULD KNOW..
    Thanks for sharing the Photos...

  11. #11
    joeybsyc's Avatar
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    I did... he said the adhesive they attached the glass with will not likely come off the cowl without taking the paint with it, and didn't recommend I try to remove it unless I planned to do some paint work... not really what i wanted to hear, but about what i expected. He wasn't sure about the location of the current posts vs. where the stock ones would go.

  12. #12
    Deuce's Avatar
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    IF ... the car is that fresh ... no miles and no sitting out in the sun ... matching the paint would be a piece of cake ... and you know the guy has the paint brand and color code that he used ...

    Nice car ... take it out and get it dirty ...


  13. #13
    kitz's Avatar
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    Just a sidebar FYI,

    I read somewhere that a '32 windshield is supposed to tilt back 9 or 10 degrees. I don't know how sacred this number is to anybody. To me it should be installed with best overall fit with the stanchions, posts, and frame all present.

    If you spend some time at www.carnut.com in his '32 index you'll see them all over the map.

    Kitz
    Jon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400

  14. #14
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    Joey... Just courious, did you happen to buy this car out of Missouri?...

    Dave Brisco

  15. #15
    joeybsyc's Avatar
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    Yes, I answered your question in another thread... the car came from MO, and was built buy a guy and his son last winter. This is the 4th car they've built.

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