Thread: advice on value of project car
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12-21-2006 04:09 PM #16
Mid 20's isn't bad. I'm about the same place with one of the Merc's... It's a lot bigger car and therefore takes a bunch more time but just guesstimating on the pieces he has in the car, probably spent more then that.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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12-21-2006 07:14 PM #17
Originally Posted by GMR
I would imagine it is worth the $$$ ...
But I do not like the body ... just my nickel ...
The shape of the rear window is WAY OFF ... even chopped ... ( above rear window is Henry's version )
The side profile on the Hertitage roof looks OFF ... like it is running downhill ... to me and I simply HATE the plain looking firewall ...and the glued in windshield ... sunk back in the body ... does not look good to me ...
This fiberglass body looks good to me ... and more like the Ford that Henry made ... even chopped ... look at the cowl ... where the door curves at the bottom, the firewall and such. With paint, this coupe looks like a Henry body with the roof filled ...
BUT ... it is all about how You like it ...
not me or anyone else here on the internet ...
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12-21-2006 11:46 PM #18
Bob, good to hear your power is back - 6 days is definitely not pleasant. We came in Wednesday night, power was on here. Both my daughters lost power during the storm but each for a day only. Merry Christmas to you also.
Henry Rifle, like your sedan. Thanks for your input. Would like to see your tranny/clutch installation as a good example of how it's done.
Thanks also joeybsyc. I agree, being able to drive it while I'm working on it is a big plus.
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12-22-2006 12:17 AM #19
Thankyou Dave and good luck with the Merc.
Deuce, I just don't have the discerning eye to notice all those things. I'll keep starring at those pictures a while and see if it comes to me. Thanks for taking the time to post them with your explanations.
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12-22-2006 08:41 AM #20
I have a suggestion for you. Find someone who is knowledgable about fiberglass bodies who can look the car over for you and report back. Or have him go with you to look it over. That way you will get a better idea of what you would be getting into. If I lived in the area, I'd be glad to do it, but I am sure there is somebody on this forum (or others) that lives in the area who could assist you. You might have come across a real deal, or you might want to run in the opposite direction.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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12-22-2006 09:33 AM #21
Paid a little over 16k for mine. TCI Mustang II, 350,700R4, quick change rear end, wheels, tires, windows in and work door work, all gages, wires, steering, all fenders, a lot of misc parts 1600 w stereo, trunk lift, A/C, just got to look around and keep you ear to the ground. I went over to look at a Slow-maro (camaro) and saw it sitting ask talked, brought it home.
Regards,
Steve
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12-22-2006 10:15 AM #22
Originally Posted by GMR
then ENJOY IT ...
I am old school I guess ...
I like door hinges, cowl vents, and at 6'2" ... I do not want a chopped top 32 ... maybe I am to critical ...
I guess that's why I build my stuff ... and cannot be happy with owning a already built rod.
it would a good bit less expensive if I could ...
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12-22-2006 10:39 AM #23
Just to add some emphasis to Lynn's suggestion and Deuce's comments I'll post some pics that might help in your learning.
Having someone who's familiar with fixing what's wrong with a glass rod body look at it will open your eyes to what's a "good" deal and what's not. Since the car you're asking about is a driver it should make it easier as you can drive it to the "consultant" rather than having to convince them to go with you to an immobile project. I'll talk about some of the exterior "appearance" factors, but there are also inner structural considerations that need evaluation.
In the first pic it shows a back view of the mock up phase on the 3 window I posted pics of the interior. As to Deuce's comments, look at the roof top. On the Heritage it has what I would describe as a too flat shape. On the coupe I did, your eye may, or may not, be able to see a slightly higher "crown" to the roof. It's likely a combination of the middle of the roof having more curve to it (takes more work on the mold to accomplish) and the sides easing upward in a more gradual transition to the roof center area. Another hint of what can make these a costly endeavor is in the decklid area on my car. If you look at the "black lines" surrounding the lid you'll see they fade out about the middle of the sides of the decklid curve. Then at the top, particularly on the left side, the alignment to the panel at the base of the roof turret, you see it sticks up (it was roughtly 1/8"). To fix this I had to section the inner structure below the roof turret/trunk opening inner structure to drop that panel, and build up the side portions of the decklid to match the contour of the upper quarter panels. There was also a lot of work done on the trunk opening, and the decklid edges to get the gaps "right". The second pic shows the end results. Now, at this point it's good to point out, some of this depends on what your objectives are. Are you anal enough that all of this fitment is going to be VERY important to you, or will "close enought" suit you? Only you know the real answer to that. Now back to the impact of all this effort (there were other parts of the body that needed similar massaging, and this was considered one of the best bodies available at the time, 1990). To get that decklid area roughed in (meaning not doing the priming and blocking necessary to finesse it for final paint) I would estimate, conservatively I had 60-70 hours in it. Admittedly I'm not a pro body worker, and am awful slow, so let's say a pro could do it in half the time. 30 hours at $60 per comes to $1800 for just that portion of the body. Add in the other "repairs" and it could easily double the cost of the body, which at the time was around $5000. I should add, when the body was in shiny gelcoat the untrained eye couldn't spot most of what I had to fix.
The last pic shows what being able to put a stock style (though chopped) windshield frame in does for the look. Again, this could be a matter of style and taste. This car was done in a traditional style, but if you're more into a "smoothie" style, then the glued in glass works well enough.Last edited by Bob Parmenter; 12-22-2006 at 10:45 AM.
Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
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12-22-2006 11:28 PM #24
Steve, yes, I see what you mean. That does look like a pretty good deal you found.
Lynn, good advice, thanks. Will see if I can locate somebody.
I'm thinking about it Deuce. I understand your point of view.
OK Bob, that's a nice car. I'm studying your examples/descriptions along with Deuce's. Going to have to get my printer working so I can take this info along for comparison purposes at the next show I go to. Thanks for taking the time to educate me.
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