Thread: Is my '32 supposed to bottom out over every little bump???

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One of the nice features in the Dearborn Deuce is the rear floor is raised 4" and is flat. It kicks up in the normal spot but instead of following the frame it goes straight up then straight back. It eliminates that clearance problem with the 3rd member. I am using a independent quick change which helps even more by solidly mounting the 3rd member to the frame. It allows me to really get the back of the car low. In my opinion there is nothing better looking than a really low HYBOY! huh?

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

One of the nice features in the Dearborn Deuce is the rear floor is raised 4" and is flat. It kicks up in the normal spot but instead of following the frame it goes straight up then straight back. It eliminates that clearance problem with the 3rd member. I am using a independent quick change which helps even more by solidly mounting the 3rd member to the frame. It allows me to really get the back of the car low. In my opinion there is nothing better looking than a really low HYBOY! huh?

I agree... I'd make some bumpstops or even cut a relief in the floor before i jacked the rear up like a 4wd for clearance.

Here are some pictures. There is 32" tall tires and measuring to the body line it is 37 1/2". So by the floor being raised it allowed me to kick the frame rails up 4" so it automatically lowered the car the same amount keeping everything else the same. then by using independent suspension it just helps that much more. So if anybody is thinking of building a new car and want it to be low this is one way of doing it and you can fly over speed bumps with clearance.

Here's the pic of the bump stop/snubber I was talking about.
(Re-pro 32 Ford from Bob Drake.)

I didn't "C" my frame and I'm sorry I didn't.

The 31 on 32 rails project has been "C'd" in the back and notched up front.

It should ride a little better than the 32 does.

It's never to late ! get in there and hack that baby up. You can use a 4" hole saw and a piece of 4" dia. piece of .250 wall tubing and cut it in half and weld it in.

....Thanks a Million Everyone! There is an Incredable amount of information on the site! .....
OK, here's where we are; 1) The frame is C notched, there is app. 3 3/4" clearance between the top of the axle & the bottom of the frame. I can tell it hasn't hit here cuz the powder coating isn't scratched... 2) There is 1" of clearance between the top of the 9" housing & the bottom of the body {it hits here}. 3) There is 1 1/4" of clearance between the top of the rear stableizer bar & the bottom of the car body {it hits here}. 4) My tires are advertised as 30" tall but with 28 pounds of air pressure {the minimun recommened by the manufacture, Hurst Tires in Oregon} they measure 29" tall. 5) By looking at the tape measure on Ken's car & using the same referrence point on my car; Kens is 39"'s & mine is 40"'s {to top of the body molding}. So mine is low & I like the low look. 6. I do have two more holes in my shock mounts that would raise my body but I don't want it any higher. In fact I was initally hoping to even lower my car some but that's out now. 6) The floor in my trunk is flat towards the front of the car & then comes up towards the rear. 7) I have 2 3/4" clearance between the top of my tires & the lip on the rear body.....

This is what I plan on doing; 1) getting bump stops 2) cutting a hole in my floor.

Questions; 1) can I run lower tire pressure than recommened by the manufacture??? 28 minumin rear tire pressure they said. They are recaped Goodyear Wranglers {I told them it was a light weight '32 Ford. 2) Because I need clearance on both the rear end & the stablizer bar mount I need a hole that's 10" x 12". Should I do 1 large hole or 2 small ones??? 3. My gas tank is in the way so I will have to either use a 2" bubble on top on my trunk floor {which will give me about 3 3/8" clearance between the top of the rear end & the bottom of my bubble. Or should I raise my gas tank to get more clearance??? I'd rather not do this..... 4) If I go with a 12" x 10" hole should I bolt on a steel bubble so as to not take away any support to the rear???? Thanks again, Bill

Sounds like you have just about answered your own questions. I would check with the tire manufacture on tire pressure and you make the call. Cut one hole and make a cover for it. I wouldn't move your tank 3" of clearance is fine if you are using the correct spring rate. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

just keep drivin it as it is, and the rear chunk will bump out a hump on its own.

Sorry, could't resist.

.....Ok, Thanks a bunch .... One cover 10 x 12... I guess I was just looking for a tire pressure answer other than what the manufacture told me! You know, someone to blame other than myself when the tire comes off of the rim! I'll find out the spring rate & let you guys know....
....lol, let the punkin make hole??? yeah this is how I USUALLY do things, but I'm going to try to be more sanitary this time Thanks all, Bill

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

just keep drivin it as it is, and the rear chunk will bump out a hump on its own.

Sorry, could't resist.

That's one way to make sure you get the hole exactly where it needs to be for clearance...

Originally Posted by joeybsyc

C notching the frame isn't gonna help the top of the pumpkin from hitting the bottom of the body, in fact, it will make it much worse. If you're hitting the body before the frame without a C notch I'd think you probably don't need one.

On original steel Ford 32 Ford roadster with the rumble seat ... a 9 inch Ford rear end will hit the frame before it hits the floor ... even with the " C " Notch ... it is hard to hit the floor pan ... or it has been for over 30 years ...

This photo courtsey of eBay ... my roadster floor has carpet ...


And my roadster sits fairly low ...



Some 9 inch Ford housings are rounded on the top and some are flatter ...
This is a rounder one ...



This one is squared on the top ... Guess which one would hit first ...

Interesting thread. I had SoCal of Oregon mount a Rodbod body on their chassis w/leaf springs. It had 1 inch of clearance over the pumpkin, and they hadn't even noticed it. So I found a custom chopper fender, new but hacked up, at a swap meet for $2. That fender became the perfect bubble which I then welded into the floor of the trunk. Problem solved, although I would have preferred a flat trunk floor.

Duplicate post - my computer crashed just as I posted.....