Thread: Any disadvantages to running battery cable & fuel line inside frame???

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Originally Posted by billlsbird

....Thanks C9x, I'm going to do it the way you did it. Tomorrow I'm borrowing my brother in laws pressure washer to wash off the frame {yeah when your car blows up it just never seems to do it after we leave the car wash, huh?}. Then I'll drill the frame & install the battery cable in a plastic hose. And move the battery to the trunk. I then need to buy my fuel line & install it. My existing fuel lines not very large so I'll need a bigger one anyway....

Thanks Duece, At some point I want to run my car at the drags & I need the battery in the trunk to do so. Also I need to run 2 x 2 tubing between my frame rails to mount my seat & seat belts to. This is my understanding of the rule book in so far as what I have to due because of my fiberglass body. So this is the main reason I want to run everything in the frame {to give me room}. And I will have my fuel filter & fuel pump behind my trunk mounted fuel cell do it'll just be 1 length of fuel line in the frame. Speaking of which I need to check & make sure that having the fuel line & battery cables in the frame is acceptable for NHRA!!!

Thanks again, ;0 Bill

Nothing in the rules about the running of cables or fuel lines inside the frame rails. As far as the battery mount, the whole idea is to prevent hydrogen from being introduced into the driver's compartment and to prevent the battery from being thrown from the car in the event of upset. The battery must be secured with minumum 3/8" diameter fasteners. I used allthread on all my builds. It's cheap and easy. Just double-nut it or locknut it on the bottom and use large flat washers to prevent pull-through. If the battery is open to the driver's compartment, some means must be used to isolate it. Either a bulkhead of minimum 0.024" or 0.032" aluminum or mount the battery in a sealed and accepted battery box, either poly like a Moroso box or aluminum. Some fellows will mount the box to the car and then place the battery in the box without securement. NO. Secure the battery to the vehicle, then cover it with the box. You will have to include a master cut-off switch that kills all power and also kills the motor. Sometimes there is a problem with the alternator back-feeding the system even after you shut the switch off and allowing the motor to continue to run. Painless offers a fix......
High Amp Alternator Shutdown Relay
http://www.painlessperformance.com/M...nstruction.pdf

I run everything inside the frame. I make these little plates and put bulkhead fittings in them so they are removable for maintenance. This is what it looks like as it's being done. Then on the outside I cut windows in the frame to access the fittings for assembly, then they are covered with flush mounted plates with screws so it's not noticeable when I'm done.
Ken

....Thanks Jerry, C9x, Offy, Duece, Tech & Ken.... Duece, You Jet Hot Coated your entire exhaust? Good idea! I love the 'look' of your un-chopped '32 w/ fenders! Now I also want one like that! I guess it's just never enough when it comes to cars......
Jerry, I'll check on the ss lines that you mentioned, but I wanted something bigger than .035. It must come in bigger sizes.... I was leaning towards the braided line, didn't realize about the electrical issues...
C9x, yeah I was going to go in the truck but I'll check out under the car. Although I was thinking that with the battery back as far as it'd go in the trunk it'd be easier to do wheel stands!
Oh I've got a Red Optima battery....
Tech, ok, I can go into the frame, good!... yeah I've got a battery box & I'll secure it & the battery with 3/8" bolts to the frame if I go in the trunk. I also got a sheet of .032 aluminum for a bulk head between my trunk & inside my car. From what I understand of the rule book I need the bulk head because I have a fiberglass body & my fuel cell is in the trunk.....
Ken, Wow! If I could only be 1/2 as sanitary as you are I'd be happy!!!
Thanks again everyone! Bill

Since we are on the subject of batteries and placement - with an 'A' chassis, I really didn't have room through the floorboards for a box so have decided that I would put it where it would do the most good if I ever decided to get on it hard - about as close to the right rear wheel as possible. The first photo is the location with just using Speedway's Optima battery hold down, the second is the sealable Summit battery case (I trashed their hold down system) - the vent is the hole in the back and the third photo is the hold down and case mated with an Optima battery. Wiring will not be hidden in the frame but mostly in a flat conduit within the passenger compartment as about the only long external run will be the headlights and they may be enclosed in a length of SS tubing - TBD though.

Bill

The .035 was wall thickness not the tube size

Jerry

Thank You IC2, I have the exact same battery box that you have. But I think I need to up-grade on the hold down brackets as you did....

Thank You Jerry, da Bill, wake up! wall thickness!!!

Bill