Thread: ’32 3W Coupe roller package advise/opinions wanted

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I never did the RC cars much Mike, did play with the airplanes for a while....
Looks like some way kewl RC stuff there.... I got to the point I had tooooooo many hobbies, had to give some up...RC's, Jet Boats, and Sprint Cars were the first to go--man, did that help the budget!!!!!

Anyway, I've really grown to like building with the scales handy...Takes a lot of the guesswork out of the build for positioning components, etc. The cheapest horsepower is still lightening the car, 100 pounds = 1/10 second....

Well, I'm certainly no purist. Did the resto thing for a number of years and chose to get out of it... I much prefer the free wheeling creativity of Hot Rodding, so many more options.... Kind of got out of the deuces and 33-34's about 10 years back cuz there was just so dang many of them!!!! Think I'd get bored to tears if that was all I built!

Anyway, though most will tell you differently, have fun with your build!!!! Do what you like rather just then what the majority think the car should have.... I do agree that the Wescott's are the best bodies, but a bit of fabricating a steel cage, and working the 'glass shell can still yield a high quality body..... Is it better to buy it or build it??? Dunno, I like building all mine, and doing a bit of restyling on the body to make it a bit unique. If the original deuce was perfect, then I guess Ford would still be building 'em just like they were!!!!!!

Always good to meet up with somebody else who isn't doomed to build one that is "just like everybody else's". Which instantly brings to mind the engine and drivetrain...maybe a V-10 and a 5 speed?????

Originally Posted by rspears

I am torn right now between the N&N Roller and buying an existing car in the area - think the already built car is the smart way to go, but concerned that whereever I go it's always, "OK, you bought Joe's car.", or "You have really changed Joe's car - liked it better before...." From what I have heard unless you go out of the area to buy the original builder's ID is firmly engrained in people's minds, [

In your case rspears ...

I would consider buying someone else's car. In respears situation ... just go to one of the bigger events ( the NSRA Nationals, Shades of the Past in Pigeon Forge or a event similar ) and look at, drive and then " bargain shop " a little. At the Shades of the Past event

http://www.shadesofthepast.com/

They have a separate show on Saturday for the 1932 Fords. There are usually 125 to 150 Deuces in one area. As a general rule, many have for sale signs in them. They come from all over to be in this event.

Some folks just like building them and then sell them. Others, after getting one, decides that the little 32's do not ride like they want, or they just want something else. Sometimes, for some folks ... the thrill is in the chase and once they have the 32 ... they are ready for a Corvette or their next " dream car ". This creates a lot of the 32's being there for sale. You can buy one, take it back to your area and then it is not " so and so's old car "
This also allows you to be riding ... 2 or 3 years sooner. After you get your new 32 back home and had it for awhile, you may decide that 32's are not for you. Or you may decide this is what you really, really want ... and then decide to build your own version. Either way, you can come out ahead.

If you the type fellow who has been into a lot of different hobbies in the past 10 years or so ... I strongly suggest you buy a car ... to figure out if this is what you really want. You know you can buy a 32 ... a LOT cheaper than building one ...

Deuce

You know you can buy a 32 ... a LOT cheaper than building one ...

Man, have you got that right . . .

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Man, have you got that right . . .

Iceburgh has over 52 in his ... and a bunch of time.
I imagine you are upside down too ... in yours.
I KNOW ... I am way upside down in mine

I have a guy I know who is at 70 grand with a fiberglass 32 Vicky and he still needs wiring and upholstery. It's nice but nowhere near worth the $$$ invested. He has a good bit of paid labor rate in his Vicky so he has that added expense.

If you look around, especially closer to the end of the rod season ... you can buy a decent fiberglass hiboy 32 roadster or 3W for less than 30 grand. And then you are riding ... not spending money on a long term project.



Reproduction plastic body, no $ 500 windshield frame, Not much chrome, painted rims with hub caps , no fenders or expensive 32 pieces ... just a real ... fun ... little coupe

Regardless, I would rather build one than buy one.

Originally Posted by Mike52

Now that we've covered the very basics like, it's going to cost twice as much as estimated, take twice as long as anticipated, and steel or 'glass, it's time to ask more questions. We touched on this very briefly, well as least Deuce touched on it, let's talk about front suspensions.

I've noticed the cost of roller chassis are roughly the same with straight axle set-ups or IFS. Personally, I like the look of the more modern IFS. What are the pros and cons of these front suspensions on a set of Deuce rails, the difference in ride quality, the ability to set or adjust ride height, ability to make changes to adjust for ride quality, etc?

Mike

Personally, I do not like the looks of a hiboy with IFS unless it has a pinched frame. IMO, they look clunky. With fenders it doesn't matter. I built my deuce with a pinched frame utilizing a Heidt stainless steel Superide IFS because I was going for a modern smoothie California style. As far as ride goes, I don't think it matters much. With a short wheel base, you will get a somewhat choppy ride either way. You do have more adjustability with the IFS because you can adjust the shock rebound and adjust the coilovers for ride height. I do like the rack and pinion steering. Essentially, it comes down to a matter of taste and the style of the car you want.

Iceburgh has over 52 in his ... and a bunch of time.

If I remember correctly, $13k was for paint, and I've got plenty of time.

I have a guy I know who is at 70 grand with a fiberglass 32 Vicky and he still needs wiring and upholstery.

I'm sure the amount of money you're willing to spend can be related to all the 'bling' you desire and having someone else turn the wrenches, but as with any hobby, you can spend as much as you want or as little as you need to. Some of us prefer the challenge of the build process, the learning experience that comes with it, and the satisfaction in knowing that you built it yourself. I'm not knocking those that prefer to stroke a check and ride off into the sunset, but I like knowing my rides inside and out, it makes me appreciate them a lot more.

Lynn, thanks for your opinion. Can you post a few pics of your Deuce or give me a link to pics that are already posted?

Mike

Thanks, Mike. Click on the link beneath my signature.

Lynn, you've got a great looking coupe, I see some things on your car that I'd like to ask about, would it be OK if I asked some questions thru the Private Messages?

Thanks,
Mike

Absolutely!

Originally Posted by Deuce

Get out your checkbook ... then ...

1) buy a Wescott 32 3W body
2) buy a So-Cal frame or TCI chassis stage III
3) buy a new crate engine and transmission.
4) buy a Walker radiator
5) buy a Vintage Air Generation II mini air unit
6) Buy a Tea's seat
7) buy a wiring kit from Ron Francis

The above are some of the best known suppliers in the street rod world ... and have been so for a good while. They have earned a good reputation by selling quality parts.

They may have the name recognition, but I would not buy a So-Cal frame again. Mine was too narrow in the back for a stock tank or spreader bar; the driveshaft hits a crossmember on some bumps; even though it has a dropout trans mount you can't pull the 4-speed trans with the motor in place because of another crossmember; and with a manual trans the brake pedal hit the clutch throwout arm. I wasn't very impressed by those flaws, and they wouldn't respond to my complaints at all. That's just my story; others may have had more positive experiences.

Originally Posted by new 32 roadster

I would not buy a So-Cal frame again. Mine was too narrow in the back for a stock tank or spreader bar.

It is a fairly well known FACT that most reproduction 1932 Ford frames are purposely built a little more narrow than what Henry Ford did. The reproduction fiberglass bodies are thicker in the rocker area and have trouble getting on a dead on original frame. TCI frames have the same issue. It is way easier to make a chassis a little more narrow ( user friendly ) than dead on.

That's why I have a copy of the original Ford 32 Frame blueprint ... and ... always use a original set of rails in a frame jig.

Just another two cents worth. I "refurbished" a '47 Ford Convertible but did not respect the weak transmission. I handpainted a very solid '31 Fordor with a brush but did not realize the eventual value of the car. I went through many "family cars", mostly station wagons while the kids were young and then I did buy and fix a running but incorrectly assembled Sand Rover dune buggy and went through several VW engines and then went through four engines in a '66 Beetle (one with a Judson supercharger on the street) then restored a MG midget from a hulk with a tree growing up through it, all the while keeping track of the early Deuce 'glass replicas hoping some day to have a Deuce roadster but it was always out of the economic picture so I decided that it would be cheaper to build a '29 and chose the Bebops with a one-piece floor-fender unit. Anyway based on a very precise Brookville frame it was a real JOY so assemble the dropped axle front end and paint the frame and then get the fittings welded onto a Maverick rear and at that point it did seem that it would be cheap to finish when I found a velour seat from a Dodge van that fits exactly for only $15! I only spent about $1500 on the engine, another $1400 on a beefed up 700R4 and $650 to refit the ring and pinion and bearings in the Maverick rear. Paint was only $1800 but needs touchup. Then the nitty gritty problems started to show up with details. I was comforted by IC2 who admitted he had multiples of items which he tried and my shop is accumulating multiple useless items that did not work out. The point is that if you shop around for the paint job you should be able to do it for $2000 or less but the details can be overwhelming. At present I am starting to grit my teeth and accept the challenge that Bob has mentioned: barring a health problem I am going to finish this project!!!!!! I thought I had enough experience with previous projects to attempt a complete build but I never imagined all the detailed problems. In particular if you repair or restore a production model you just buy parts and bolt them on. When you build a 'glass car almost every piece has to be figured out in your head and hand fitted, usually with a rat tail file! The constant engineering of smaller parts has made me weary several times, BUT I will finsh this project as long as my health permits! Sooo you can do it, it will take longer than you think and it will cost a lot more than you think BUT the main thing is to have the mental tenacity to get past one small bracket design after another and another. I think I am past most of these bracket design problems and I am learning to depend more and more on purchas of stuff that is engineered by the aftermarket folks but eventually you have to make some stuff fit on your own or get a pro to do it. So far the only stuff I have farmed out was the paint, the ring-and-pinion change in the rear and three small welding jobs by a local guy who has a roving welding truck. The main thing I am saying here is that at some point you either have to farm out some of the job OR be able to make/adapt your own brackets and nitty gritty fitting of stuff that "almost fits". The work that Ken Sturm shows is out of this world in complexity and high quality workmanship, but when you sit in yout shop/garage and just have to visualize a bracket for some dingus just bear down and think/visualize how to do it the simplest practical way and if you can buy an adapter that will help but eventually some stuff has to be fabricated! You can do it, but be prepared to make many, many adaptations. Good Luck, I wish I could afford a Deuce but my job is to get this roadster finished. Just to stir the pot, take a look at the Bebops 3W coupe, I think their quality is average but I have found their phone support to be friendly and helpful.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Mike.... I build all of my cars and or trucks. The '32 is over the top in some areas but I knew that going in. The only thing I did not do on the '32 is the flames and the mural on the back.
One thing I think we have all agreed on in this thread is to each their own.
I have a entertainment system in my car I am sure Deuce would never ever consider but that is what make the world go around

Originally Posted by iceburgh

One thing I think we have all agreed on in this thread is to each their own.
I have a entertainment system in my car I am sure Deuce would never ever consider
but that is what make the world go around

In my old roadster ... with the wind noise
You could never hear it anyway.

I am actually shopping for a nice sound system for the 3W.
I want something with the XM type radio and a multi-disc CD player. I need one that installs remote and has a little remote control to work it, as I do not want to hang it where it can be seen.



I just had the dash and all the garnish moldings woodgrained by Bob Kennedy of Whittier California.

Unfortunately ... I am not very knowledgeable about all the XM, CD and remote stuff but will have to rely on someone else more knowledgeable than myself to help make the selection. I do not need or want a big ... bump, bump, bump system. Just a decent, clean sound with decent reception and the ability to hold 3 or 4 CDs.

Is yours mounted remotely ??

.