Thread: ’32 3W Coupe roller package advise/opinions wanted

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I’m in the planning stages of a ’32 Deuce 3w project. This will be my first ground up build so I would like to get started on the right foot with a quality body/chassis roller package. The body will have to be fiberglass as a steel Deuce body is out of the budget. I’ve talked to Duane at N&N Fiberglass several times about one of his ’32 3w body and chassis combo and I’ve also talked to RJ of RJay’s Speed Shop about one of his Show Me Rod & Custom Deuce body with a Pete & Jakes Stage 3 chassis combos.

Could anyone offer words of wisdom regarding their experiences with either of these companies or offer any advice that would be helpful to a first time builder. I've been browsing around the Deuce Den reading the topics that might help, lots of good info there.

Thanks, Mike

Both those body companies have a good name and Pete & Jakes is a staple in the hobby, so parts wise you're on the right track. Where most people get sideways is in underestimating how much it's really going to cost and how long it's going to take. Building a ground up vehicle and purchasing (one way or another) all the necessary components is a relatively complex task, especially if you're shooting for a quality build not just a bare bones get down the road deal. If you haven't done this sort of thing before, you'll likely need to double your expected budget and tripple the time frame you've got in mind. Not trying to talk you out of it, or discourage you, just trying to help you set realistic objectives which will ultimately lead to better success. A high percentage of this type project never get finished because the person gets overwhelmed, burned out, whatever expression you prefer, because they were unprepared for what obstacles they had to overcome. If you prepare wisely you'll minimize the downers and enjoy the fruits of success.

My gut feel is that N&N gives more bang for the buck, and it looks like the chassis he uses is virtually identical to a P&J unit.

Bob's right about the cost. First timers think they have the bulk of the project paid for when they bring home a body on a rolling chassis. Tain't so. You'll be lucky if that covers half.

The best advice is to plan out every detail. Have a mental image (or even a sketch or a cutout from a magazine) of what you want the final product to be.

Take an inventory of the tools you have, and determine how much work you can do yourself. You can spend 10% or more of the cost of the car on tools if you don't have a really well equipped shop.

If you can weld and paint, you're ahead of the game. But if you have to farm out painting, exhaust, etc., your price will go up rapidly. Painting is especially expensive.

Do you have enough room to work, and enough space to store all the parts? If it's tight, think about organizing things so all your "stuff" doesn't get beat up or lost. If not . . . can I use your garage?

Mock-up is critical. Make sure you build up the entire car (less wiring, paint and upholstery) to make sure everything fits, then tear it all back down before paint, etc.

Think about buying Tex Smith's book on How to Build a Basic Hot Rod, and do a LOT of thinking and planning before you turn the first wrench.

Never built either one ... of those,
But I like a 3W with a windshield frame. Not the typical glass body glue in windshield.



To me, the coupe with the chrome windshield frame looks more 1932 than the glass 32 sitting next to it with a glue in windshield.
( disclaimer ... the one on the left is my 3W )



It is real easy ( and common ) to have 10, 15 or 20 thousand dollars in a pretty chassis. Parts and pieces add up quickly. A decent radiator is over 5 hundred ... more with A/C ... Wheels and tires cost money. A 700R4 automatic can easily cost a grand or more.

I believe I would buy a chassis and then built it ... to suit your taste and pocket book. Then buy a body. Just my nickel ...

Mike,
You have been given some great advise by guy's that have been threw this. I hope you aren't discouraged by there advise. The rewards are tremendously rewarding.
My advise is take your time really think things threw, mistakes are costly, don't worry about redundant questions, you are with a very special group of people on this site.
Ken

Mike,
You and I are at about the same spot - never a ground up build, always wanted to do it and wondering which way to go. I picked up the Sept issue of Street Rod Builder and they have two articles that are relevant - one on a low budget build of a '34 3 window, and another on a sweet '36 where the guy bought a buddy's car built in the 70's and used that as his platform. On the ground up build they are using a N&N Roller, and their budget is set at $35k - an eye opener for me, and on target with what the guys hear are telling you (and by coincidence, me) - plan on lots more time and money than the cost of the roller.
I am torn right now between the N&N Roller and buying an existing car in the area - think the already built car is the smart way to go, but concerned that whereever I go it's always, "OK, you bought Joe's car.", or "You have really changed Joe's car - liked it better before...." From what I have heard unless you go out of the area to buy the original builder's ID is firmly engrained in people's minds, which makes the ground up build attractive (for me). If you build start a scrapbook to record your source for everything from the roller with factory certificate of origin to receipts and notes for every component that might be thought to be stolen parts. Get references to salvage title numbers on any used parts from wrecking yards, like engine & tranny. Your state may be more lenient, but many (KS seems to be one of the worst) are getting really tough to register a new build, and then it is a 2008 Home Built, not a 1932 Ford.
Good luck in your decision process. If you decide to build take lots of pictures as you go and keep us in the loop!
Roger

Gonna run fenders?
You can save alot by losing the fenders. Also know ahead of time exhaust layout. Chassis builders will change a bracket or move it to accomodate, exhaust, brakes(power), headlamp mounts, transmission choices, etc. You can get some good deals such as lower cost plating and additional components by negotiating will the chassis builder. Buy in bulk to save, right? Oh and if you decide to pinch the frame keep in mine it will give you some trouble with the transmission hump just an FYI
Good luck

Have built 5 N&N bodied cars in the last year and 1/2
Duane and Don build Great stuff.
If your a first time builder--- Double the time ya think ya can do it in
And also double the $$$$ U expect to spend.
Buy a finished car and enjoy it.
Or have 1 built to your specs.
As a builder, I can tell ya it's a little more to have 1 built, but you'll get what ya want a lot quicker.
Remember this-- We as builders get anywhere from 20 to 40% off on our parts and materials. So if you spend 35K on parts and materials it's only gonna cost a builder 25-28 grand.
Have built and sold 16 32's in the past 4 years and have many satisfied customers.

There are 32 3W fiberglass bodys that use a windshield frame ...

There are numerous threads on the internet about building a " new " 32 coupe. Some with absolutely not the first original 32 Ford part on them. A lot of the folks who frequent here also visit other sites and the information is fairly easy to find and figure out ... for you own project. Just sort of pick and choose. Google search turns up this thread elsewhere. Some of the same Deuce folks here have make contributions to the thread.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/deuc...rs-134313.html

I like the looks of the glued in windshield better..... Don't need all that extra trim and stuff on a car, I like smooth and slick, no trim or chrome... Guess that would make it on non-deuce, huh??? Oh well, never did go in for the purist stuff on cars anyhow.....

A lot of deuces, A's, T's, Cobra's and what have you are build without any of the original parts.... They are no more or less a hot rod then a "real" '32, whatever that is....

A complete car, even starting with a body and roller package can easily be quite overwhelming for the first time builder.... I'd suggest starting with a "done" car that needs a bit of rebuilding or freshening as a first project.... Seen way too many first timers just give up on projects for a variety of reasons, and sell them for pennies on the dollar.....

I really appreciate the feedback from all of you. Just a little background on myself, I’ve been involved with cars since the late ‘60s. I started out on the drag strip, building and racing Hemi and 440 6-pak Mopars for many years. After starting a family, I took a break, and then in the ‘90s, I started back on 2 wheels with Harleys. I have a Springer that has been an ongoing project for over 8 years (yes, I do have lots of patience). I work on a lot of friend’s bikes doing everything from routine maintenance, high performance engine work, custom work. I have a well equipped garage with plenty of tools even though I will have to acquire a few more specifically for this project. My son is a welder by profession, his work has to be x-rayed and certified before it’s acceptable. This kid can lay a beautiful bead with a TIG or MIG on anything from aluminum to stainless steel, I’m very lucky here!! I have had an interest in street rods since an early age, but other things like drag racing were more interesting at the time. I grew up in Chattanooga, TN and I used to go to the rod runs in Pigeon Forge, TN every year when it was known as ‘The Grand Run’. This was back in the days when the Grand Run would be on a weekend right around Labor Day and the Shades of the Past split from the Grand Run and started having their own run on the following weekend. I also attended numerous NRSA Nats at Chilhowie Park in Knoxville. We've attended the NSRA Nats in Tampa many times since moving here 8 years ago in addition to many local events. This year we have plans to attend the Turkey Run in Daytona for the first time.

Bob and Henry, thanks. Even though this will be my first attempt at a project of this magnitude, I have been doing my homework and trying to get prepared, that’s one of the reasons I became a member here and a few other sites. I have saved on my computer many build projects on ‘32s, including Ken’s and Deuce’s to name just a couple (Deuce, the chambered exhaust on your car reminds me of the exhaust on the ’69 Camaro Z-28/RS I had when I was a young man). I have also picked up seveal books as suggested like Tex Smith's, Dennis Parks and Ron Mangus for interior ideas. I prefer to build my first rod rather than buy a ‘runner’ that I know little about the construction/workmanship. Instead of changing someone else’s ideas of a good car, I prefer to build it with the ideas and visions that I already have (with the help from all of you). I know good planning is the key to any successful project, everything needs a solid foundation and I haven’t set a time frame on a completion date. I’m planning on this being a multi-year project, whatever it takes to finish properly (I spent over 1½ years just planning and building a front fender for the Springer motorcycle). As far as the budget goes, trust me on this one, it couldn’t be any worse than what I have invested in the Springer. It almost makes me sick to think that I could have a killer ’32 Coupe for the money I’ve put into that bike.

Roger, I read the same article in Street Rod Builder magazine. It was the same day I talked to Duane at N&N. I told him that I would be following the article in the coming months to see how they build it and see how well they stick to their budget. He pointed out that there were several mistakes in the write-up, specifically the mention that the billet front hubs were part of their standard chassis package. I already keep a scrapbook on every vehicle I own, I’ve done this for many years. I use a 3-ring binder to put everything regarding my bikes and daily drivers, every receipt, every installation instruction for accessories, etc. I keep photos of build projects on USB thumb drives. When I do major projects for friend’s bikes, I take pics along the way and burn them to a CD disc for the friend.

Geronimo, you touched on something about the fenders that I’m having a hard time deciding. I really like the look of a full fendered car but thought about doing a highboy as my first project. Then I talked to a local guy with a highboy and he mentioned the water spray from the tires on rainy days and we get a lot of rainy days here in the Tampa Bay area from June until Oct-Nov. I also mentioned this to Duane at N&N regarding doing a highboy first, then possibly adding the fenders at a later time. As he mentioned, it just takes careful planning in the building stages.

Don, I’ve seen your work and cars on Big Al’s site, great looking cars. Only as a last resort would I “Buy a finished car and enjoy it or have one build to your specs”. Part of the enjoyment is the building process for me, many times I would rather build a bike than ride it. I understand what you say about the builders getting a discount on parts. That’s going to be a hard pill to swallow for me as I get the same type discounts on bike parts. I go to Daytona Bike Week and Biketoberfest every year just to meet and greet vendors that I do business with. I spend a lot of time researching parts sources and good prices for motorcycle parts, now it going to shift to street rod parts, any suggestions would be helpful and greatly appreciated!!!

Dave, I agree with you, I like the windshield without the chrome trim, just a personal preference, sorry Deuce, no offence.

Please keep the ideas and suggestions coming, I can use all the help I can get.

Mike

Originally Posted by Mike52

1) I grew up in Chattanooga, TN and I used to go to the rod runs in Pigeon Forge, TN every year when it was known as ‘The Grand Run’. This was back in the days when the Grand Run would be on a weekend right around Labor Day and the Shades of the Past split from the Grand Run and started having their own run on the following weekend.

2) Dave, I agree with you, I like the windshield without the chrome trim, just a personal preference, sorry Deuce, no offence.

1) ... The Shades of the Past held their FIRST run at the Grand Motel. When the motel and a few " others " tried to take the run over and run it themselves ... the Shades moved the location ... but kept the first weekend after Labor Day and their event. The Grand Run ( held on the grounds of the Grand Motel ) is the week after the Shades and for a long time ... it was not really a street rod run but more of a car show ... as they allowed lots of 50', 60's and even 70's vehicles to register. Yes ... I have been to every Shades of the Past event ... including the first one Until recently, the Shades of the Past only allowed pre 49 ... since they opened their event up ... total registration is slowly dropping. Vehicles just stay up on the main Parkway ...

2) No offense taken.
It is just ones own taste. That preferrence makes it good for you ... that the less expensive 32 fiberglass bodies ... come with glued in windshields.

I also had a 69 RS Z28 ... with chambered exhaust ...



With your background ... you should be OK ... and end up with a car you can be proud of.

Mike, your background message includes many of the same sentiments I feel, and pushes me more towards building rather than buying. I don't have the bike/build experience but do have a barn w/concrete floor, a good welder, a pretty good range of tools and no hard end date for having to be done. Thanks for starting the thread, and to those taking time to offer advice.

Well, sounds like both of you are ready for all the fun of a build! Do your shopping carefully. There are a ton of shops selling deuce frames and bodies, some good and some not so good. I would suggest making quality a higher priority in your shopping then price.... Building a Hot Rod is just like building anything else, quality compononents make for a quality finished product..... Other thing I would suggest is don't be afraid to pursue your own ideas on the build.... There's a gazillion deuces out there and to have a car that will stand out from the rest takes some engineering and a lot of thought and planning, trial and error.... IMO the 3 things that will separate your car from "all the others" is fit, finish, and detail, go for the best you can even if it does take a bit longer to achieve!!!
\
Oh yeah, and have fun while you're building it!!!

Just got a 32 running. I have kept up with most every dime and it does cost as much to build as buy. My son is 16 and we started 3 years ago and got the car running just before the Nats less interior and paint. We made it to the Nats!

Why did I do it and why would I do it again? When I was 16 my dad brought home a 37 Ford sedan that did not run. We literally changed the engine and brakes under a shade tree. I have never forgotten that experience. My son had it much better with a full basement, quiet a few tools, and always cool. I wanted him to experience working on and building a car. The frustrations, the patience required, and also the rewards. When we started he did not know a 3/8 dirve from a cresent wrench, but he does now.

The day we took that car out of the drive with no windshield and he drove it for the first time, I hope I can always remember the ear to ear grin and the expression on my son's face.

It is his car and he personalized a lot of things and it does not fit the mold of most of what I see at the meets. Who cares we like it and that is all that makes and difference. He will be driving it to school as soon as we get the bugs out that we found going the Nats. I hope to make a post soon with build pics and just my rating of some vendors.

He put a shruken head on the mirror with a sign attached "The last person that called this a kit car". I know we all have it easier than the old days but the word kit gives me this mental picture of something that is all inclusive and you just slap it together in a few weekends. "BOLT ON" yeah right!

We used a BeBops roller purchased at Shades of the Past and were quiet satisfied.

One thing I learned is to make major buys at major NSRA or Goodguys meets. The Nats are great because of number of vendors. You can go from vendor to vendor and negotiage the best price and just shop for the best price on small items.