Thread: Driveshaft specs?

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I am putting a 37 tranny and rear axle in my 32 and plan to use the 37 torque tube and rear radius rods and a 32-33 inner driveshaft. I've been told the 32-33 driveshaft is a better choice for the inner, because it's hollow and will be alot easier to balance. I think all I have to do to it is cut it to length, add the right spline to fit rear diff and balance it.
But the outer torque tube is where I have questions. The 37 is of course way too long for this application. Not to mention it has sleeves in a couple places for the bearings that keep down the solid driveshaft vibration(which won't allow the hollow shaft to be installed). I was thinking of cutting it in two places in order to get my correct length. One just behind the speedo adapter to a point where the tube starts to widen (this will take out about 4 inches and the front bearing sleeve) and move the radius rod front mount 4 inches forward.
The rest of the excess will be taken out of the middle where the center sleeve is. The radius rods will be cut to match the final installed length.
So, I'm wondering if I'm on the right track here, or about to screw it up?
Thanks ahead of time,

Ralph

Ralph, How about cutting a piece of D.O.M. tubing to the correct length and putting the Ford ends on it? Jerry

Depending on how short it needs to be you can usually get by with just one cut in the portion that is pretty round all the way back. We used to use a pipe cutter that was capable of handling 4 inch diameter stuff, but with today's modern stuff a lathe or even a horizontal bandsaw or chopsaw could work too.

I think it is Speedway that sells a kit to respline the middle driveshaft, all you do is cut and weld the new end on it. I will be going that route if and when I ever get to the 46 flathead I am going to build a car around.

Don

I could go that way, but I'm wanting to keep it traditional looking, so I want to try the orig parts first. Here's a pic that might help.

Yea, Ive seen the speedway driveshaft, pretty spendy though around $400, and I don't think I need it as the one I have should work fine for the inner.

Well, here's my solution for the torque tube portion of it. I cut the tube in the center and took out approx 15-1/2 inches(and the center bearing) Then welded it back up. I decided to leave the forward bearing in place, and the radius rod mount in the same position. With the torque tube mounted I could then work on the radius rods.
I cut the forward end of the rod off first, mounted it to the tube and used it as a pattern to bend the rod inward to match it. I also bent the cut off end slightly outward to match the new angle of the rod. Both of which took considerable heat. I then cut the rod to length and dressed and welded it back together.
All the time I was doing this I constantly checked the measurements of the rear axle to make sure it maintained proper alignment.
I think it came out great.

..Looks great. Keep us posted.

Looks great Ralph! About all you need now is a bit of time on the lathe to shorten up the drive shaft. I built one for a guy last year, he just got some new ends and we made the shaft out of some moly tubing cut to length and tigged the ends on..... Used a dial indicator on the lathe to set everything up, balancing was a cake walk......