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02-15-2016 09:58 AM #11
I don't find a picture of my body dolly in my stash of old photos, but I did mine on the cheap - A 2x6 perimeter frame that followed the basic wedge shape of the chassis so that the body rests on the dolly as it would on the chassis, not out in the middle of the floor. The back cross member got a piece of 2x4 across the top to come up and support at the wheel arch area to keep it from rocking fore & aft. A 4x4, nominal 18" long in each corner for legs, with a pair of 3/8"x6" carriage bolts, one from the side, one from the back/front to prevent the legs from folding under. You can buy a furniture dolly at Harbor Freight for $12 that gives you four casters - 18 In x 12-1/4 In 1000 lb. Capacity Hardwood Dolly Lots of ways to skin the cat, and you don't have to spend a bunch of dollars that could go to car parts.
Edit 2 - I went out and found the frame leaning against a tree. The rear crossmember has been in the dirt so it's about gone, but you can see the idea. The pieces on tacked onto the sides are to compensate for the curve of the chassis and support where the body hits the chassis.
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The legs were closer to 14" long, as this dolly was made to give mobility to the body while working on the chassis, not a painting dolly. I tried some old casters that fit into a hole in the end of the leg first, but needed the larger wheel so I just lag bolted on a piece of angle iron. Not pretty, but it worked just fine.
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Simple, stout, performed as needed, and now kindling material. This was to hold a 3W Hiboy Coupe body that weighs MAYBE 500 pounds, and move it on a smooth concrete floor . If I were looking at a dolly for a fat fendered body I'd build accordingly. It filled the need for me, and I'm only showing it as another example on approach, on the cheap.Last edited by rspears; 02-15-2016 at 12:09 PM.
Roger
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