Thread: Another Build Thread - My '32
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06-12-2019 07:27 AM #316
Hello Jim. Glad to know you're back at it. I've missed your posts. Carry on!Too old to work, Too poor to quit.
My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457
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06-12-2019 11:14 PM #317
johnboy
Mountain man. (Retired.)
Some mistakes are too much fun to be made only once.
I don't know everything about anything, and I don't know anything about lots of things.
'47 Ford sedan. 350 -- 350, Jaguar irs + ifs.
'49 Morris Minor. Datsun 1500cc, 5sp manual, Marina front axle, Nissan rear axle.
'51 Ford school bus. Chev 400 ci Vortec 5 sp manual + Gearvendors 2sp, 2000 Chev lwb dually chassis and axles.
'64 A.C. Cobra replica. Ford 429, C6 auto, Torana ifs, Jaguar irs.
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06-13-2019 02:07 AM #318
Hi guys. Glad to be back. Stay tuned, there's lots more to do before this one is finished...
You can weld on the axle tubes - they're steel, but that center section is cast iron and should be left as cast.
Cast iron CAN be welded quite successfully with high nickel rod made for that purpose and a stick welder. I have welded cracked heads, cracked blocks, the broken jaws of a vise, the broken foot of a pot-belly stove, and other cast iron pieces over the years, but my life wasn't riding on any of them. If this had ben my car I would be tempted to go find the guy that built it and punch him right in the face.Jim
Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!
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06-13-2019 07:35 AM #319
FWIW - I've had very good luck TIG welding cast with nickle filler rods. The TIG process seems to help keep cracking at bay. However, I have no proof of that other than my gut based on a little experience.
I learned the TIG/nickle thing from my dad and he swore by it.Mike
I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
I'm following my passion
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06-13-2019 02:00 PM #320
Yeah, the key in both cases (stick or TIG) is high nickel content. Also, both processes concentrate the heat in a small area. I have also seen cast iron that has been brazed. In that case, the whole part has to be heated to keep heat expansion from cracking the part somewhere else. Regardless of the process, I would not use a cast iron suspension or steering part that has been welded. Steel will usually give some pre-failure indication like bending or a crack in the paint or chrome. Cast iron (and cast aluminum) will often break without warning.Jim
Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!
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06-13-2019 02:45 PM #321
With the tank set aside, I glued the supports in place with body filler. I discovered when I was teaching high school Auto Body Repair, next door to the wood shop, that body filler is a really strong glue... as long as you aren't concerned about appearance. I scuffed the floor area with my angle die grinder and a Roloc disc. Then I mixed some body filler, "buttered" the bottom of each support, and stuck them in place.
I didn't have time to go any farther today, but next I will 'glass them in place. They are actually strong enough just as they are, but a layer of fiberglass will make them impervious to moisture. This is the same process I used when I "wooded" the body on my Track-T.Jim
Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!
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07-23-2019 01:24 PM #322
OK, it's been a little over a month, but I'm finally back at it... Life just keeps getting in the way - honey-do list, other hobby obligations, etc. Anyway, getting back to where I left off.., after 'glassing in the supports for the fuel cell and letting them harden, the next step is to fabricate some sort of anchors. I began by making a couple of tabs from 1 inch angle iron and 3/8-16 nuts. Next I mark the intended location on the steel tubing structure just above the fuel cell. With the fuel cell removed, I clamped the tabs in place and welded them to the steel supports.Jim
Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!
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07-23-2019 01:40 PM #323
To fabricate the straps I used 1/8 x 1 flat steel. Using a tailor's fabric measuring tape, I measured the length of the straps I needed (24 inches) and also where the bends would need to be (13 and 22 inches). I made the bend for the bottom angle about 1/4 inch above the floor (21 3/4). This will make the strap very tight when it is bolted down at final assembly. For now everything is just lightly snugged; I used a large fender washer under the floor. I may tack-weld the nut to the washer later and stick it in place with a dab of body filler. That way I can assemble it without "extra hands". Also, when I assemble the car for the final time I will line the supports and straps with rubber.Jim
Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!
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09-05-2019 08:24 PM #324
Well, it's been a while. The wife and I went north on our annual trip to visit family. Then I installed an irrigation system in her flower beds. Finally.., last week I hoisted the body off the frame so I could do the finish welding and then Hurricane Dorian got in the way! After a week of preparations and waiting we thankfully "dodged the bullet" when the storm stayed offshore and left this area mostly unscathed.
Thoughts and prayers for the poor folks in the Bahamas!
Today I finally got to spend some time in the shop. I drilled and tapped the 14 bolt holes that hold the body on. I had previously marked all the holes with a drill and bit while the body was in place. After I finished with the bolt holes I put a 1 1/4 inch square tube crossmember at the rear of the frame just in front of the rear spreader bar. The purpose of this piece is so I can weld mounts for the tailpipe hangers and license plate to it. It is totally hidden when the body is in place. I'll attach a picture in a later post.Jim
Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!
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09-06-2019 04:40 AM #325
Thanks for the update Jim. Good to hear the storm stayed away, we have an eye looking towards it now.
Currently predicted to "give us" maybe 2 inches of rain but as much as 4 inches! 8-(
Winds could get to 90 mph too. And it supposed to get here sometime through the night Nothing like the folks in the bahamas, but we'll certainly lose our power and hopefully the trees don't cause more damage. The salt water in the rain won't bother the cranberries to much, but the other crops could be hindered next year.
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09-06-2019 06:38 AM #326
Great news on the hurricane, my daughter is in Tampa, they are feeling quite lucky also. I really feel for the folks in the Bahama's, what a mess the islands are. One lady was interviewed and said "It will never be the same", I'm afraid she's right. The car is coming along very nicely Jim, hopefully things will settle down for the rest of the year and we can all get back to work on our projects. It's been a tough summer around here too with all the rain and floods.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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09-06-2019 06:40 AM #327
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09-06-2019 11:05 AM #328
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09-06-2019 04:26 PM #329
Makes me realize that I've got to stop dragging my feet on the free energy project that I'm squirreling away bits and pieces for. Nothing extreme, I just want the fridge and TV off the grid, eventually the well pump too.Last edited by firebird77clone; 09-06-2019 at 04:30 PM.
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Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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09-06-2019 07:07 PM #330
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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I'm glad to hear the storm missed you guys! Hopefully it will go fizzle out and not do anymore damage for the people farther north. Your tank work is looking great. On the 8.8 cast/welding situation. On my 40 I had a plate cut that goes in between the housing and the diff cover. I than tied my bracketry into the axle tubes as well as the mid plate so it will act like a truss too. I was really leery of trusting welding to the cast housing. I value the lives of anyone who may ride in it too much.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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