Another Build Thread - My '32

[J. Robinson]

Painted the engine today. The light wasn't good when I shot the pic so it doesn't show, but it's the same red pearl that's on the rear end and other parts. This pearl "Scarlet Fever" is a darker red. It should have a nice contrast to the Apple Candy that I'm putting on the frame and body. Now that it's painted I can install the aluminum intake and water pump, the chrome pan, valve covers, and all the other pretty stuff.

[53 Chevy5]

Looks real nice, I see you don't trust Big Blocks on engine stands either, I do the same thing.

[J. Robinson]

Yeah, Seth, that engine stand is supposed to be rated for 1,000 pounds, but I'm skeptical. It just sags too much without that support. Until now I've always had small blocks and it was OK. Oh well, it won't be on there for long.

Here is a pic of my paint from The Coating Store. Everything you see here was $584.96. From left to right: 2 quarts of primer-sealer (silver); 2 pints of activator; 2 pints of reducer; 1 gallon of silver basecoat; 1 gallon of Apple Red EyeKandy; 3 quarts of activator; 1 gallon of clear; 1 gallon of reducer; sticks, strainers, and mixing cups. This same stuff from my local Axalta store would have been over $1200. I grew up using Dupont and PPG materials, but they have just gone berserk on their pricing in the last few years.

I'll let you all know how this stuff sprays and flows. I did my first all-over paint job on my '56 Chevy back in February of 1966. It was '66 Corvette Nassau Blue and a gallon of acrylic lacquer was $18.00. Thinner was $1.95 a gallon...

[Mike P]

“……I did my first all-over paint job on my '56 Chevy back in February of 1966. It was '66 Corvette Nassau Blue and a gallon of acrylic lacquer was $18.00. Thinner was $1.95 a gallon...”

I remember those days Jim. I started my painting in the early 70s. Walk in to the paint store get a gallon of acrylic enamel, a quart of the second color (I did a lot of 2 tones), reducer, hardener, masking tape and paper and change back from a $100 bill ……..and they threw in the strainers and stir sticks!

When I painted the 57 Plymouth 13 years ago I groused about paying almost $400 a gallon for the paint. I had some touchup paint mixed to take care of a couple small rock chips last year. When I gave the counter guy the paint code he kind of chuckled and said they had stopped carrying that brand a couple of years ago because of the price and asked if I was curious about what it cost now……….over $1200 a gallon!!!!! And then mixed me a small bottle of the color in enamel



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[40FordDeluxe]

Jim, that looks so nice! I will be checking them out. My next build I plan to paint everything with a gun instead of poof can. I have used a lot of hot rod flatz brand paint but even their prices have went up and I'm certain they just re brand the stuff. I remember paying the paint bill for the corvette when we did it...... I could have purchased 2 new turbos for it for what the paint and clear cost. The first painter let the paint freeze so I got the pleasure of buying paint again but I went with a cheaper line that time. I was so disgusted. Luckily the 2nd guy just charged me cost on the supplies.

I'm looking forward to seeing your frame!
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[J. Robinson]

I painted my frame today and I am impressed with the color depth. I started painting candy colors back when Candy Apple and Kandy Apple were name brands and all the candy paints were lacquer. When House of Kolor came along, their colors were virtually unmatched in depth. Well, I can tell you this stuff is right there with them. The pics below don't do the color justice. The light in my shop isn't conducive to photography. I did shoot one pic of the front frame horn where the sun was shining in the door, but even that doesn't tell the story accurately. This stuff is gorgeous! It looks a foot deep.

OK, I've sung its praises, now let me impart a couple of things I have learned:
1) The Coating Store offers primer-sealer in a multitude of colors. The idea is to get a sealer that's close to the color you're using so it enhances the hiding properties of the final coats. I used their silver sealer because I am using a silver basecoat under the candy red. When I shot the first coat of sealer on the frame, I didn't have my spray gun adjusted properly and I put a sag in the sealer in one spot. No big deal, the second coat will fix it, right?.. Well, not exactly. When I applied the second coat it covered the sag, but after the sealer was fully dried I noticed it was crazed where that sag was. Hmmm... So now I know, when waiting for the first coat of sealer to flash, make sure any sags or heavy spots are dry (dull). If you leave any area wet, the next coat may craze. Luckily, this spot is buried under the paint, barely noticeable, and where it will be hidden by the rear wheel.
2) The silver basecoat was a dream to spray and went on very evenly.
3) This paint is Polyurethane, not Acrylic Urethane. Polyurethane is known for its toughness, but it has some idiosyncrasies that are different than Acrylic Urethane. When you are applying the candy color coats, make sure you allow enough time to do the color AND the clear. This is what's called a wet-on-wet system. The clear has to be applied immediately after the color. If you wait more than 30 minutes to start clear coating, you will have to wait overnight and wet-sand the color before applying the clear! Follow the included instructions explicitly.

So far I am very pleased.

[J. Robinson]

Ryan - You can do so much more with a spray gun than rattle cans. The big advantage is the durability of the available paints. You don't have to spend a fortune on spray guns, either. I am using the "purple guns" from Harbor Freight. I have three of them. I use one for primers, sealers, and color coats and the second one is used only for clear. The third one is still in the box as a standby in case one of the others malfunctions. I have a pressure regulator on each gun. These are the same guns I used to paint my track roadster a few years ago and I have also painted at least a half dozen other cars and bikes since. They just keep plugging along...

[40FordDeluxe]

Jim, I have a couple of the HF guns too. I also have a nicer SATA. I mainly do spray bomb because it is faster, sometimes cheaper. I realize you don't get the same durability as gun shot paint. The next project for myself will be the 40 and I want it to look nice for many years. That's why I decided I will shoot all of it with a gun. It may a challenge since our winters aren't conducive for painting. Haha

[J. Robinson]

When I was painting for a local body shop a few years ago, they had a pair of SATA guns; they're really nice - durable and consistent. If I was painting every day I'd have one, but for my occasional dabbling, the HF guns are OK.

Where is Prairie City? I'm originally from Indiana - when it was Winter there I couldn't do much painting unless I had access to a heated garage (mine wasn't). Here in Florida, Winter is the best time to paint. The humidity (rain) is occasionally a problem in Summer because it can cause some paints to "blush", but rarely delays me more than a day or so.

[40FordDeluxe]

When I was painting for a local body shop a few years ago, they had a pair of SATA guns; they're really nice - durable and consistent. If I was painting every day I'd have one, but for my occasional dabbling, the HF guns are OK.

Where is Prairie City? I'm originally from Indiana - when it was Winter there I couldn't do much painting unless I had access to a heated garage (mine wasn't). Here in Florida, Winter is the best time to paint. The humidity (rain) is occasionally a problem in Summer because it can cause some paints to "blush", but rarely delays me more than a day or so.

Jim, it's in Iowa. I face the same problems you spoke of. My garage is heated but I need to make a temporary booth set up so I can paint this winter. I have a friend that has a bigger space where I can paint this winter so that should help out. The humidity here is an issue in the spring and summer too. I've been burned by that a few times.

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[J. Robinson]

I began reassembly today. I put the truck arms on the rear axle, rolled it under the frame, and with the frame still suspended from overhead, I lowered it down and bolted the arms into the frame. Next, I installed the rear panhard bar. I put the 3-inch blocks I originally used to build the rear suspension between the frame and rear axle housing so that it is level at ride height (1st pic below).

While there is nothing else in the way, this is the perfect time to align the rear axle to the frame. A lot of people drag out jack stands and string and magnets and tape, etc., but all that crap is unnecessary if you do it now. With the rear end in place and as close to correct as you can get it with "calibrated eyeball", it's time to do some measuring. First, center the frame on the rear end by measuring from the frame rails to the backing plates (2nd pic) on both sides. Adjust the panhard bar until the two sides are equal within 1/16 inch (or less if possible). Next, measure from equal points on both ends of the rear axle to the center of the front crossmember (3rd pic). A good place to hook your measuring tape is on the wheel cylinder bleeders (if they're centered). In this case the wheel cylinders aren't installed yet, so I used the holes where they go. At the front I used the center hole in the front crossmember for my measuring spot. On other cars in the past, when there was no hole, I measured the crossmember to find the center and put a center punch mark in it. Measure both sides the same way and adjust as necessary until the two sides are equal within 1/16 inch (less if possible). Using this method assures that the car will go down the road straight, not "dog tracking", because the rear axle is perpendicular to the centerline of the car. The rear end is done; you can move on to the front next.

[J. Robinson]

Before I could install my torsion bars and arms and put the front end together, I drilled the front mounting bosses and installed grease fittings (1st pic below). Then the torsion bars and arms go in place, being careful that I index them the same from side to side. Actually, I put center punch marks on the arms and bosses before disassembly so I could easily get them back where they belong.

Once the rear end is squared with the frame, it is simply a matter of measuring straight forward and setting the front axle parallel to the rear axle. I did this step with the front axle sitting on jack stands and centered, side to side, under the frame (2nd pic). At first measuring, the right side was 1/4 inch longer than the left. A few turns on the Heim joints here and there and now both sides are the same. The next step was to adjust and install the front panhard bar and the shackles (3rd pic). Finally, I was able to assemble the spindles, king pins, and caliper brackets and mount the front wheels. The frame is sitting on its own four wheels again (last pic).

[34_40]

Now you're talking! Put'sa smile on my face!!

[40FordDeluxe]

Great work, it is looking sweet!

[J. Robinson]

Nothing picture-worthy, but a little progress. I'm getting the engine ready to drop back into the frame. After we were gone to Indiana for five days (got out just as the snow was beginning), I finally got back to work by replacing the ugly old oil pan with the pretty chrome one. One would think that would be a pretty easy step, but... This engine came from a 1985 Chevy wrecker. The truck has a 7 quart pan which is deeper than the passenger car version and uses a longer deeper sump on the oil pump. I didn't realize what I had until I went to bolt up the new pan! OK, so I removed the oil pump and spent about two hours modifying the sump. I also discovered whoever assembled this engine didn't put the little sleeve on the oil pump shaft extension, so I had to make a trip to the parts store to get one. I bolted the oil pump back in place and... the SOB pan still didn't fit, so I had to take it back off and shorten it just a little more. FINALLY it fit.

Now the next hurdle. I got one of those new-fangled one piece pan gaskets. Supposed to make installing the gasket easier - it does. The only problem is it's thicker than the old 4-piece style, so it was a bitch getting some of the bolts started. After messing with it all for another hour I finally prevailed and my engine now has a pretty new chrome pan.

I bolted on the starter and the motor mounts and lifted the engine off the engine stand. I set the engine on the floor and decided I've had enough fun for today. Tomorrow I will bolt the transmission and engine together and install them in the frame. If the weather cooperates I may roll it outside for a picture. Time will tell.