Another Build Thread - My '32

[Driver50x]

Jim,
Just to clarify, how do you "build in" the caster for this setup? Do you do that when you mount the batwings, or do you just thread one of the rod ends in farther that the other?

Steve

[J. Robinson]

Well, it can be done either way. I like to get it "in the ballpark" with the way the components are built and then fine tune the caster with adjustment of the rod ends. OK, having said that the question is "how do I know how to build it in?" To be exact I need to set the frame up (on blocks or stands) at the intended ride height. Then I can mock up the front axle (with wheels and tires) and fit the radius rod brackets and possibly the batwings accordingly. If you look at my Track T build you can see that I did exactly that. In this instance, though, I have an "ace in the hole"- my coupe is sitting on a Deuce style frame and I am able to copy its front end dimensions and angles.

OK, here are the finished Radius rods after welding with the (unfinished) batwings.

[Driver50x]

Looking good. Thanks for taking the time to explain all this stuff, and for all the pictures. Your threads have a ton of useful info that explain how to do this stuff as affordably as possible.

[J. Robinson]

Well, my new spindles arrived Wednesday. Thursday was Thanksgiving and Friday I went to the Daytona Turkey Run with my son. I drove the Track-T with a FOR SALE sign on it, but no activity there...

Anyway, I finally got time Saturday to compare the new spindles to the ones on the Jeep axle. The kingpin inclination angle appears to be the same or very close, but... The Jeep kingpins appear to be larger in diameter than the Ford kingpins, so now I have another dilemma - If the kingpin bosses on the Jeep axle are too large, there is no easy way to make them smaller and making bushings that thin would be questionable. Also, having those bushings made would probably be cost-prohibitive. In plain words, a new forged 4" dropped axle from Speedway is $249. For all the trouble it will be to make the Jeep axle work, I decided it's not worth it and I have ordered the new axle. The good news is I will now have a Ford axle which will look more traditionally correct.

[Whiplash23T]

You didn't bump into Don (Itoldyouso)Hagas at the Turkey Run by any chance Jim ? I still miss his super cheap builds ( wink wink, under $3000. T Roadsters, on here and also what his two lads are up to on their builds as they always had something on the go.
You will have to put the Jeep xle away under the work bench now and possible dream up one more project to use it on.

[stovens]

I miss him too

[J. Robinson]

No, I didn't see Don or either of his sons. I always keep an eye out for them whenever I go to the Daytona rod runs or either of the Florida Billetproof runs. Don Jr and I exchanged a few e-mails a while back, but I haven't heard any more from him or any of the Hulgas clan since...

[J. Robinson]

Hooray! My new axle was delivered today. It came wrapped in oil paper then wrapped in plastic and in a long narrow cardboard box. I am very pleased with its appearance; nice clean new metal. Folks who are really familiar with Ford axles know that the original '32 axle has a 1/4 inch taller cross section than the '28-'31 and '33-'48. I don't know why, but the '32 was an oddball year. It's also the most desirable to a lot of folks because of its taller dimension. Anyway, this axle looks like a '32. It has the taller cross section, it's dropped 4 inches on the ends and is really nice.

Just to make sure everything is correct, I installed the spindles, thrust bearings, and kingpins (finger tight so I can disassemble for painting). It practically fell together. I'm accustomed to using rusty, greasy old parts that I have to clean and refurbish and often "persuade" (with hammers or pry bars) together. You guys who get to work with new parts all the time don't know how lucky you are... Anyway, I can finally proceed with building this chassis. Stay tuned!

[stovens]

Sounds like a good start Jim

[Hotrod46]

The old forged axles do look right on an old Ford. Especially if they are drilled. Really shouts Hot Rod.

[J. Robinson]

My frame has been leaning up against one of the workbenches since I brought it home back in March. I have finally reached the point where I'm ready to start putting the "rolling stock" under it; I spent Monday rearranging the shop so I can work on it and still get everything in there.

Today I cut the notches in the batwings that I made earlier and welded them onto the new front axle. Before welding them in place I needed to fill the wishbone holes in the axle. I found a couple of 3/4 inch fine thread bolts, ground off the threads, cut pieces just a little short of the 2 1/4 inch axle height, welded them in solid top and bottom, and ground the welds flat. Positioning the batwings was critical, so I used my welding magnets to hold them in place while I measured them every which way I could imagine. I used a tape measure, combination square, and a bubble protractor to get them as identically the same as possible. Carpenters always say "measure twice, cut once". I say "measure ten times, weld once". After tacking them in place I re-measured everything again. Nothing moved, so I welded them solid.

The fixture I made earlier to fabricate the radius rods, I now used to adjust them the same. I put one radius rod on the fixture and then adjusted the other one to drop right on the same bolts. Next step, bolt the radius rods onto the axle and mock it in place.

[Driver50x]

What are you going to use for front springs Jim?

[J. Robinson]

I'll be using torsion bars like I did in my coupe. They are from an early '90s Nissan Hardbody pickup. I have attached a couple of pics from when I was building the coupe.

I'm an old stock car racer and I like cars that handle well. Consequently, I have never been a fan of Ford's "buggy springs". They tend to lean over in corners and if you stiffen them enough to cure that problem they ride like a buckboard. Even Ford Motor Company knew that; look under a '46- '48 Ford and you will find big sway bars (anti-roll) attached to the axles. With torsion bars I have adjustable ride height and the suspension attachment points are at the frame rail instead of in the center of the crossmember. Do they work? Yes! I'll put my coupe up against a Camaro or Firebird on a twisty road course any day. This is my 4th car built with torsion bar front suspension.

[jerry clayton]

I'd always never been able to find an OEM type torsion bar set up of the ratings I needed and the race side market too expensive/complicated to build for street driven cars----never had researched any of the imports/ricers as a source-

Have done a lot of coil overs in recent years-----most of my 1930's stuff has been spring front and coil over /4 bar rears--

Nice work

[stovens]

Hey Denny you have me intrigued enough to research this gyro device. Here is a link to and article describing how it works and results of tests done by police and sheriffs departments. That gyro is pretty cool. My truck is running leaf springs front and back too.
http://arch.torranceca.gov/archivedn...F/00000561.pdf