Another Build Thread - My '32

[J. Robinson]

The main part of the radius rods is, of course, made from tubing. I use "black iron" pipe available at any home improvement store (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.) or plumbing supply. If you followed my Track-T build you may have read about it, but for those who are new to me and my methods, here is what I wrote for the T build:

If anyone is considering doing some of these things, let me give you some common sense warnings. First, never use ordinary galvanized water pipe for any structural member or for any steering or suspension component. The zinc coating on galvanized pipe contaminates and crystalizes the welds guaranteeing that they will fail eventually. Second, the fumes emanated from welding galvanized material can be deadly!

Black iron pipe is just mild carbon steel tubing. The coating on it is a shellac-based paint that burns away completely at the weld, so it does not contaminate the molten weld puddle. Later on, the remaining coating can be removed with lacquer thinner or by sanding it off. I have many times just given it a light sanding and primered right over it. I am yet to have it lift or create any kind of painting problem.

In the town where I live (Titusville, Florida) there is no place to buy round tubing. I can get rectangular tubing, flat steel, or solid round stock locally and have it delivered, but if I want plain mild steel tubing I have to go to Orlando, order it, and wait. Unless I order a big quantity of it, I pay a premium price for it and I have to pick it up because they won't deliver! I was complaining about this very thing some years ago and an old sprint car racer asked why I didn't just use black iron pipe. He went on to explain that it's just heavy-wall mild steel tubing with a coating to avoid rust; if the weight isn't a problem it's just as good as any mild steel tubing. I did a little investigating and found two other guys who actually built sprint car chassis from the stuff! They said yes, its a little heavy for its size, but it's very durable.

OK, I begin building the radius rods by making a fixture to hold the pieces. I want the radius rods to be 36 inches long, center to center, between the rod ends. I found this piece of 1/2 inch plywood scrap that was a useable size. Near one end I drilled a 1/2 inch hole approximately centered between the sides. Then I measured 36 inches, laid out and drilled two holes 6 inches apart near the opposite end. I put three 1/2 inch bolts through from the back side. Now the rod ends, with the lock nuts and bungs I made earlier threaded on, are put on the bolts. With the rod ends in place I can measure the actual length of tubing needed to fit between the shoulders on the bungs. If this seems confusing, maybe the picture will help...

[Driver50x]

One quick tidbit about the coupling nuts. I was not able to find any fine threaded coupling nuts locally. It seems that Home Depot, Ace Hardware etc. only carry the coarse threaded ones. I finally found the right ones on mcmaster.com - The part number is 90977A034 if you want the grade 5, 1/2"-20.

[J. Robinson]

I forgot to tell you all - I'm using 1/2 inch black iron tubing (pipe) which has a 7/8 inch outside diameter.

For the bottom tube I have to put a bend in one end. I dragged out my trusty old Harbor Freight pipe bender and put a 45 degree bend in one end of a piece of tubing. Next I used my Harbor Freight tube notcher to cut the curved end where I wanted it. At that point I could lay the notched tube on the fixture, position the notched, curved end where I like it, and mark the length on the other end where I needed to cut it off. I also put some marks on my fixture so I could duplicate the bend position on the second radius rod. I can now trial-fit everything, but still not ready to weld the tubes together. there is one more important series of steps...

[J. Robinson]

Driver50x - My local Lowe's didn't have them either, but the local ACE hardware did. I guess different stores in different places...

Before welding the tubes together, the thread bungs need to be welded in place. I cross-drill the tubes near the ends so that I can plug-weld the bungs through the sides of the tubing as well as welding all the way around the shoulder. After welding, the welds are ground smooth. then I run a tap through the threads to clean out any slag that may have gotten in there and also to take car of any shrinkage from welding. Now, finally, I can weld the tubes together.

[Driver50x]

Jim,
Just to clarify, how do you "build in" the caster for this setup? Do you do that when you mount the batwings, or do you just thread one of the rod ends in farther that the other?

Steve

[J. Robinson]

Well, it can be done either way. I like to get it "in the ballpark" with the way the components are built and then fine tune the caster with adjustment of the rod ends. OK, having said that the question is "how do I know how to build it in?" To be exact I need to set the frame up (on blocks or stands) at the intended ride height. Then I can mock up the front axle (with wheels and tires) and fit the radius rod brackets and possibly the batwings accordingly. If you look at my Track T build you can see that I did exactly that. In this instance, though, I have an "ace in the hole"- my coupe is sitting on a Deuce style frame and I am able to copy its front end dimensions and angles.

OK, here are the finished Radius rods after welding with the (unfinished) batwings.

[Driver50x]

Looking good. Thanks for taking the time to explain all this stuff, and for all the pictures. Your threads have a ton of useful info that explain how to do this stuff as affordably as possible.

[J. Robinson]

Well, my new spindles arrived Wednesday. Thursday was Thanksgiving and Friday I went to the Daytona Turkey Run with my son. I drove the Track-T with a FOR SALE sign on it, but no activity there...

Anyway, I finally got time Saturday to compare the new spindles to the ones on the Jeep axle. The kingpin inclination angle appears to be the same or very close, but... The Jeep kingpins appear to be larger in diameter than the Ford kingpins, so now I have another dilemma - If the kingpin bosses on the Jeep axle are too large, there is no easy way to make them smaller and making bushings that thin would be questionable. Also, having those bushings made would probably be cost-prohibitive. In plain words, a new forged 4" dropped axle from Speedway is $249. For all the trouble it will be to make the Jeep axle work, I decided it's not worth it and I have ordered the new axle. The good news is I will now have a Ford axle which will look more traditionally correct.

[Whiplash23T]

You didn't bump into Don (Itoldyouso)Hagas at the Turkey Run by any chance Jim ? I still miss his super cheap builds ( wink wink, under $3000. T Roadsters, on here and also what his two lads are up to on their builds as they always had something on the go.
You will have to put the Jeep xle away under the work bench now and possible dream up one more project to use it on.

[stovens]

I miss him too

[J. Robinson]

No, I didn't see Don or either of his sons. I always keep an eye out for them whenever I go to the Daytona rod runs or either of the Florida Billetproof runs. Don Jr and I exchanged a few e-mails a while back, but I haven't heard any more from him or any of the Hulgas clan since...

[J. Robinson]

Hooray! My new axle was delivered today. It came wrapped in oil paper then wrapped in plastic and in a long narrow cardboard box. I am very pleased with its appearance; nice clean new metal. Folks who are really familiar with Ford axles know that the original '32 axle has a 1/4 inch taller cross section than the '28-'31 and '33-'48. I don't know why, but the '32 was an oddball year. It's also the most desirable to a lot of folks because of its taller dimension. Anyway, this axle looks like a '32. It has the taller cross section, it's dropped 4 inches on the ends and is really nice.

Just to make sure everything is correct, I installed the spindles, thrust bearings, and kingpins (finger tight so I can disassemble for painting). It practically fell together. I'm accustomed to using rusty, greasy old parts that I have to clean and refurbish and often "persuade" (with hammers or pry bars) together. You guys who get to work with new parts all the time don't know how lucky you are... Anyway, I can finally proceed with building this chassis. Stay tuned!

[stovens]

Sounds like a good start Jim

[Hotrod46]

The old forged axles do look right on an old Ford. Especially if they are drilled. Really shouts Hot Rod.

[J. Robinson]

My frame has been leaning up against one of the workbenches since I brought it home back in March. I have finally reached the point where I'm ready to start putting the "rolling stock" under it; I spent Monday rearranging the shop so I can work on it and still get everything in there.

Today I cut the notches in the batwings that I made earlier and welded them onto the new front axle. Before welding them in place I needed to fill the wishbone holes in the axle. I found a couple of 3/4 inch fine thread bolts, ground off the threads, cut pieces just a little short of the 2 1/4 inch axle height, welded them in solid top and bottom, and ground the welds flat. Positioning the batwings was critical, so I used my welding magnets to hold them in place while I measured them every which way I could imagine. I used a tape measure, combination square, and a bubble protractor to get them as identically the same as possible. Carpenters always say "measure twice, cut once". I say "measure ten times, weld once". After tacking them in place I re-measured everything again. Nothing moved, so I welded them solid.

The fixture I made earlier to fabricate the radius rods, I now used to adjust them the same. I put one radius rod on the fixture and then adjusted the other one to drop right on the same bolts. Next step, bolt the radius rods onto the axle and mock it in place.