Another Build Thread - My '32

[figure8]

I'm anxious to see how you do your steering. Looks like things could be a little tight. I know you have it figured out since you have done it all before. Thank you for a great tech thread

[J. Robinson]

Thanks, Figure8. It's my pleasure. Writing this thread kind of helps keep me on task.

Actually, I do have an idea what I want to do, but I kind of work out the specifics as I go. Yes, the torsion bars do present a couple of challenges to the placement of some components, but I think the ride quality makes it worthwhile. On my coupe I used the steering box from a late '70s Toyota 4WD pickup (some early coupe build pics below). It has a long sector shaft so the body of the gearbox is mounted just above the torsion bar, but the Pittman arm is below it. Those are a bit scarce now days, but I have a steering box from a 1980 Corvette that is almost dimensionally identical to that Toyota, so it's a possibility. The other possibility is a Unisteer style rack and pinion. I can't positively determine which is more practical until I have the engine mounted. Then I will use whichever fits best. I'm using a big block this time, so it may be different than my coupe. Stay tuned...

[J. Robinson]

The next items on my part fabrication list are the steering arms. Remember, I'm using Speedway Motors spindles and 4 inch dropped forged axle. Speedway has steering arms, but... One set says "not for use with dropped axles". The other ones are flame cut from 1/2 inch steel, but they look like they are only dropped about 3/4 inch. So, I'll need to fabricate some arms that will drop below the frame and torsion bars (I want this thing "in the weeds"!).

I happened to have a piece of 2 1/2 x 3 angle iron with 5/16 wall thickness. That should be plenty hefty enough. To begin I took some measurements on my Speedway spindles. I needed to know the hole spread and how much clearance would be needed to get around the kingpin boss. With the dimensions in hand, I was able to make a poster board pattern. I also made an additional piece (add on) for the right side so I could put a second hole in it for the cross-steer drag link. If it turns out that I don't need the second hole, I can cut it off later. Using the pattern, I marked and drilled the holes and then marked the pieces for cutting with my oxy-acetylene torch.

[J. Robinson]

The next step, of course, is fire up the torch and cut the steering arms out. They really look ugly at this point, but we all know what's next - grinding.., and grinding.., and grinding. Once they were starting to look fairly decent it was time for trial fitting. I found a few little places where I had to relieve some interference for final fitment. Once everything was fitting properly I gave the arms a coat of primer to inhibit rust and also so they would show up better in the pictures.

Last thing I did was make a temporary tie rod so I can confirm clearances, etc. This tie rod is temporary because later I will weld bungs on the holes and ream them with a tapered reamer so I can use conventional Ford style tie rod ends and a slightly larger diameter tie rod.

[34_40]

Thanks so much Jim.
Following along has been informative and fun.
Torsion bar suspension isn't the norm for a hot rod, so kudos to thinking outside the box.

[jerry clayton]

Since your talking about steering boxes----------on some race cars( Prostockers) I have used the flex haft from I believe a Pinto instead of U-Joints, and also I might add I believe some were also used on some BMWs?-takes up a lot less space around exhaust, oil dry sump pumps, etc

[J. Robinson]

Thanks for the tip, Jerry. I had forgotten about those flexible shafts and that's a good idea. Pintos are as scarce as clams peckers around here (they all got used up in the Ministock wars at the local race tracks), but BMWs are plentiful in the local salvage yards. I'll look for them.

[Driver50x]

Any progress on the 32 lately Jim?

[J. Robinson]

Unfortunately, no progress to report. I got temporarily sidetracked helping my son with his project.

Just before Christmas he traded his '31 Model-A sedan for a '50 Mercury. It's an old survivor custom with a 3" chopped top, shaved door handles, frenched headlights, etc. During its lifetime someone (probably multiple different owners) spliced wires, cut stuff out, spliced some more until the wiring was crap and nothing worked but the headlights and one taillight. There was evidence of an under-dash fire at some point in its history (melted wires). So far we have installed a new steering column, completely rewired it, installed all new gauges, replaced the fuel sender, changed the alternator, and given it a "temporary" satin black paint job. We still need to go through the carb to get it running right and then it will be roadworthy. The good news is it has a nice green & white Naugahyde interior and a fresh 350 Chevy engine & trans. Hopefully we'll finish his repairs next week and then I'll be back on the Deuce.

My next step will be installing the rear suspension. I am still trying to decide if I want to use a 4-bar setup or a "truck arm" system like my coupe has. I have all the components for both...

[figure8]

will you be using torsion bars in the back?

[J. Robinson]

I haven't decided yet. I have another set of the Nissan pickup bars that I could use. On the other hand, it would be much easier to use coil-overs. If I use the torsion bars I will likely mount them crossways on a fabricated crossmember above and behind the rear axle. My coupe has '82 Chevette springs in the rear and it rides comfortably, so conventional coils is another option. There are advantages and disadvantages to each system, so I simply haven't decided yet...

[figure8]

I haven't decided yet. I have another set of the Nissan pickup bars that I could use. On the other hand, it would be much easier to use coil-overs. If I use the torsion bars I will likely mount them crossways on a fabricated crossmember above and behind the rear axle. My coupe has '82 Chevette springs in the rear and it rides comfortably, so conventional coils is another option. There are advantages and disadvantages to each system, so I simply haven't decided yet...

The truck arms (ladder bars) would have more symmetry with the hairpins in front. If you decide not to use the torsion bars I would vote for coil overs. Don't see any advantage to separate coil springs. JMO.
By the way I read the thread on your T and the fact that you are a professional teacher really shows. Your students are lucky.

[40FordDeluxe]

Your son's new ride sounds pretty cool. It seems the wiring is the first thing hacked and rarely repaired correctly. That's been my luck any how.

[J. Robinson]

Figure8 - The truck arms on my coupe are not readily visible unless you get down on your belly, so they would be a non-issue visually. I make them from 2 x 3 tubing and similar to the ones used in NASCAR. The big advantage to them is they provide good bite when "launching" plus they are really strong. The 4-bar system would provide just as nice ride and only the bottom bar would be visible on each side, which is common on fenderless Deuce roadsters and coupes. I have done both multiple times in the past, so I think it comes down to nothing but preference. I'll make a decision soon...

40FordDeluxe - Here's a snapshot of the Merc right after we finished the temporary paint job. We did the satin black so we can easily spot it in as we do the bodywork on it. It has some cracked welds around the rear side windows, some holes to fill where the dummy spots used to be, the front fenders are sagging a bit which makes hood fitment impossible, and there are a few dings in it that we'll straighten. Right now my son's plan is to paint it dark purple metallic with green and white flames and scallops. Of course that could change by the time we get that far.

[J. Robinson]

Figure8 - I meant to ask; where does your screen name come from? Are you a current or former figure-8 racer? If so, where?

As for me, I retired in May of 2010, but I did spend many years in the classroom. I taught auto mechanics, auto body repair, woodworking, drafting (old style with a pencil, compass, triangles and T-square), hydraulics, beginning welding, and even American Government one year. I also worked side jobs along the way as a fabricator/welder, carpenter (frame and trim), and machinist. Anyway, I'm a sort of "Jack of all trades", but my main gig was teaching and I still like to pass along what I can to whoever can use it.