60 ft. article I wrote for another forum

[sparky2263]

Okay, I'm no chassis "expert" but all my rides have dead-on 60' times so I'll answer best I can. I don't know if you're leaf or coil suspension so I'll address it in general terms.

Front sway bar-for drag racing it is removed or disconnected. This allows the front end to "work" and transfer weight to the rear. A travel limiter is sometimes used on the left front as a way to make the car launch straight. The 2 G-body cars I have set up use 'em. BUT, a rear sway bar can accomplish the same thing.

Rear sway bar (since I brought it up). One of the most handy tools in getting the car to launch straight. A direct means of providing pre-load is accomplished with an adjustable rear sway bar. Cheap for what they do, $250 or so.

As far as wheelbase, the longer the wheelbase the more predictable and softer the car launches. The shorter the wheelbase the more fun though . More a function of front/rear weight % though. Moving the rear-end forward will increase rear weight % but there's better ways.

Drop spindles, all things being equal, will lower the instant center which can be taken care of in the rear. Spring and shock selection in the front will do much more for weight transfer than spindle height.

The best rule of thumb for converter selection is to have a stall speed equal to peak torque rpm's. At least for your first converter ) I use JW because they give you 1 free re-stall within 90 days.

As far as best gear, if you're gearing for the 1/8 mile, it's gonna be a pretty big number! Tire size and growth %, peak hp and converter efficiency will determine gear selection. Any knowledgeable dyno operator will be able to determine best gear selection with the dyno results. Thank God we have one of the best dyno op's in the business here in Gainesville. I have LOTS of gearsets from before they were here .

Holla back if I can help further.