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04-26-2005 09:41 PM #16
Excellent call Dave.
Being REAL about it, I'm probably making too much about the tech being clairvoyant. Follow Dave's advice and make a friend. The only thing you don't know is if the tech guy knows his stuff. Whomever you invite over, make sure he's at least SFI Bronze certified and preferably Silver certified. If you can't find a certified tech, at least make sure the guy has been teching cars for several decades.
P.S. Don't remove the blower.
"You can underdrive the blower enough to make the engine almost "normally aspirated" right? "
Yes, you can. One thing you need to correct though, is that there is no such thing as "normally aspirated". A motor is either naturally aspirated or artificially aspirated. Not baggin' on you, just want to see you use the correct terminology.Last edited by techinspector1; 04-26-2005 at 09:45 PM.
PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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04-27-2005 01:37 AM #17
I was having trouble finding the right word, "naturally" apirated was what I was searching for. I have probably heard it on ESPN2 a million times. DUH!
Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciated it!
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04-27-2005 02:21 PM #18
Can you post up some more pics of your new Blazer like the engine, etc? Sounds like a cool ride. My teacher has a (I think)96 or 97 pro street blazer with a 455 in it and moved back 6 inches or more. I think more because everything is moved way back and your like kind of near where the back seats used to be but not quite. But anyways, that thing is sweet. Not sure how good of traction it gets though but oh well, still nice.www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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04-27-2005 04:27 PM #19
Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
Can you post up some more pics of your new Blazer like the engine, etc? Sounds like a cool ride. My teacher has a (I think)96 or 97 pro street blazer with a 455 in it and moved back 6 inches or more. I think more because everything is moved way back and your like kind of near where the back seats used to be but not quite. But anyways, that thing is sweet. Not sure how good of traction it gets though but oh well, still nice.
I was wondering about traction too. The previous owner said he raced it a few times with a different 383 unblown motor and it didn't hook up quite enough, so with this motor it should have less traction.
Once I get a look at it, I'll be asking questions about how to fix it. There is so much I need to learn about 4 link suspension and weight transfer. Looks like I may have to raise the front end some. The stall seems relatively low compared to most I've seen online so I guess it would get less traction with higher stall? It does come with slicks too so that's a good thing.
It's going to be a blast driving it around town to local weekend hot spots until I get it ready to race!
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04-27-2005 09:04 PM #20
If it has 4 links then I hear those take time and a lot of runs to get them dialed in the way you wan't. That is why I am going with a simple ladder bar set up now. I am not experienced at it and all so that is why I will be going with the ladder bar setup, plus I think it was BlownGoat on here that told me how a 4 link is harder and takes a long time to get dialed in just right and that a ladder bar will do just fine.www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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04-28-2005 02:43 PM #21
Anybody got links to some good 4 link tutorials?
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04-28-2005 08:32 PM #22
Look up Chris Alsons (sp) Chassis Works website and email them to ask for a video and cataloge. They explain it all on there. Do a google search.www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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04-28-2005 08:40 PM #23
Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
Look up Chris Alsons (sp) Chassis Works website and email them to ask for a video and cataloge. They explain it all on there. Do a google search.
www.artmorrison.com
The best book I've found for chassis tuning (so far) is Jerry Bickel's Complete Guide To Chassis Performance. www.jerrybickel.com . It has a section specifically for four link. Does a good job of explaining instant center locations and how each set-up changes the behavior of the chassis. ................... and it's got pictures tooLast edited by pro70z28; 04-28-2005 at 08:55 PM.
"PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
>>>>>>
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04-29-2005 02:07 PM #24
Thanks for correcting me or adding that link in for me Pro70.www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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04-29-2005 03:56 PM #25
Might just have to pick up this chassis software
http://www.jerrybickel.com/software.html
Looks interesting.
Any Body have any experience with it? Worth the bux??"PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
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04-29-2005 04:05 PM #26
Thanks!
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04-29-2005 04:18 PM #27
Originally posted by blownS10
Thanks!"PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
>>>>>>
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04-29-2005 07:33 PM #28
Thanks for the link, Pro. He has some killer deals on used stuff!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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04-30-2005 07:06 PM #29
No problemo.......... I should pay more attention to that site myself."PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
>>>>>>
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05-01-2005 06:48 AM #30
Here's a few links I came across on suspension instant center and traction.
The Basics of Bite
Basics of Bite
Software
Performance Trends
My car came from Texas Friday. Looks pretty nice and motor is strong, but I've got some work to do to get it on the track. Gonna be fun on the street for awhile anyway!
Last edited by blownS10; 05-01-2005 at 06:51 AM.
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