Thread: hooking up!
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01-27-2006 03:56 PM #1
hooking up!
ok guys iam pissed! i just got my truck out of the shop and it runs great so i was driving around town and a ford f150 pulled up next to me and wanted to race me! i knew i would murder him so i put my truck in first and stalled it up then the light turned green and i spun through first and second gear and hooked in 3rd and came up and smoked him! but he got me outa tha hole by three truck lenths so i need ways to get traction! somebody help!
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01-27-2006 04:57 PM #2
Are both tires slipping or only the right rear?PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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01-27-2006 11:45 PM #3
some times one some times two!
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01-28-2006 08:34 PM #4
most all the time its the right rear!
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01-30-2006 02:46 PM #5
Do you have any type of suspension upgrades? Do you have any weight in the back of the truck or just the bare bed?Father and son working to turn a '64 Falcon into a street and track monster.
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01-30-2006 05:14 PM #6
good thing the Ford slowed up and waited for you, heck you'd still be mad otherwise!!!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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01-30-2006 06:08 PM #7
Well, there are a few remedies. I am no suspension, racing nor automobile specialist, but I do know that if you have no weight transfer to your rear tires, then you have no traction available, and without that, you get no hook.
SO, I wish so bad that I could remember what I saw on "trucks!" the other day. there is a company that offers a bladder with 4 or 5 seperate sections in it. It fits in your bed (specefic models) and you fill each bladder with water. Fully filled it will add around 500 evenly spread lbs I believe. It also can support 300lbs of payload, pull a plug and deflate when you're done.
If you don't want that, you can go with ladder bars, traction bars, or a 4-link (among other set-ups). Seeing as how 4-links are a little drastic for what you want, I would recommend traction bars or ladder bars. From what I have read, the traction bar is a cheap and temporary fix, but I do have a buddy running 11.9 @ 113 in a Dakota with traction bars. But guess what his problem is, traction.
I do not hope you make a purchase off of my recommendations, but I do hope that you take what I have given you, along with what others say about my post, and do some quality research. I think if you know your stuff, you will feel a lot more comfortable making the purchase. Impulse buying off of what one person says is what I would think is a big no-no in the automotive hobby area.Father and son working to turn a '64 Falcon into a street and track monster.
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01-30-2006 06:13 PM #8
Originally posted by Dave Severson
good thing the Ford slowed up and waited for you, heck you'd still be mad otherwise!!!!!!Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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01-30-2006 08:32 PM #9
my experience, if it counts for much
big sticky tires, soften your rear suspension if you can and get posi if you dont have it already.
this should get you in the right direction to start with.
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01-31-2006 05:41 AM #10
Wow, I'd better be careful, this guy doesn't appreciate a little humor I guess....This is the PM he sent me, thought I would share::::
will75110
Club Hot Rod Member
Registered: Sep 2005
Posts: 10
Angry LOL
LOL VERY FUNNY YOU CAN TAKE YOURE FORDS AND STICK THEM UP YOURE *** ITS SAD THAT YOU HAVE NOTHING BETER TO DO THAN TALK SHIT TO PEOPLE THAT ARE JUST LOOKING FOR A LITTLE ADVISE! GET A LIFE
Oh well.....I apologize.......I'm sure your pickup is the fastest truck in town.....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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01-31-2006 07:21 AM #11
Some of the reasons a truck won't hook up is that the suspension is designed to carry a load, and not for weight transfer. With the motor set so far forward in a pickup it is tough to get them to hook up. A Posi would help a lot, along with some softer springs and poly bushings in the trailing arms that will allow the suspension to move more freely. Playing with the coil spring rates and the shocks on the rear will also help. Front shocks designed for weight transfer would also be something to consider.........
Softer compound tires and lower air pressure is the easiest and cheapest fix..... You could also try an air shock on the right rear to preload that side. Adjusting the air pressure will sometimes help the left tire to hook up better and make the open rear think it's a posi.Last edited by Dave Severson; 01-31-2006 at 07:24 AM.
Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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01-31-2006 07:48 AM #12
If you had not of said that, I would have thought you were dead. that one I wouldn't worry about.Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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01-31-2006 07:51 AM #13
Yeah well, must be the geezer in me.... Not much of anything does bother me anymore !!!!!!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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01-31-2006 08:23 AM #14
Originally posted by Dave Severson
Yeah well, must be the geezer in me.... Not much of anything does bother me anymore !!!!!!!!!
I'm really the wrong one to be talking about this, because I'm about as thin skinned as you get about some things, but all of us say things we wouldn't have thought would bother someone else, but its hard to take it back. I've found if a post makes me mad, if I wait awhile and read it again, it will sound a lot dif. than it did when I first read it, but thats hard to do sometimes.Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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01-31-2006 01:15 PM #15
will75110-
If I might hitch-hike on some of Dave's suggestions such as manipulating shocks, tire pressures, sticky tires, etc., here are a few insidious (sneaky but legal) little tricks we employed back in the middle of the last century when I was trying to race in the pure stock classes.
When you read this, please bear in mind that I wasn't a very successful stocker racer.
Tire pressures: 50 psi or more in the front (supposedly this gave us less rolling resistance), and 30 or so, with sticky tires, in back.
Shocks (front): We'd go the wrecking yard and get a pair of the most worn out, squishiest old shocks we could find, the idea being that they would allow the front of the car to raise up under acceleration, thus transferring weight to the rear.
We would also back off on the brake shoes to avoid whatever drag, if any, might be there. And we would loosen the belts with the idea that they would slip at high rpm and keep accesssories from eating up horsepower, something we didn't have a hell of a lot of to begin with.
Granted, this stuff should probably be filed under "useless info" and probably wouldn't keep you from getting snuffed again, but I thought I'd throw it out anyway.
JimLast edited by Big Tracks; 01-31-2006 at 08:30 PM.
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird