Thread: Screwing the tires to the rims???

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.....I'm getting a new set of wheels for my '32 Ford to run slicks on at the drags {steel wheels}. It weights 2450, has 460 HP, 499 TQ {but in the future I will add HP probably to 650 or so}. A turbo 400 trans w/ trans brake, 4:11 true track rear, will have 13" wide slicks. Will screwing the tires to the rims help any??? I want to have the rims powder coated & it's easier to have them done by the manufacture {rather than having the rims done after I get them} Thanks, Bill

That's a trick used by serious drag cars so they can run very low tire pressures and not spin the rim inside the tire. With new rim design, it doesn't seem to be necessary any more, but I could be wrong. I've done it on a few farm tractors with fat tires and small diameter rims. I don't think your Deuce will need it, the air pressure should hold 'em.

Depends on the air pressure you run. Not a bad insurance policy for the price of the screws though!!!

Here's a couple of things to think about when running slicks on low air pressure.

If you run the tires "tubeless" you will will not have the issue of pulling the valve stem out of the tube if the tire slips a little. NHRA rules require metal valve stems, not rubber. Make sure you can see the studs coming through the lug nuts, do not use solid end lug nuts. You should always put a paint mark on the tire "in line" with the valve stem so you can monitor if the tire is slipping on the rim. If you do choose to run tubes, they add alot of weight to the wheel/tire package, and will pinch the tubes on the side wall if you drive them very far at low race air pressure. M&H slicks work fine mounted tubless in my experience. Make sure you run a wide enough rim to allow the tire to lay flat on the ground at low pressure. I would not worry about adding screws until you determine that you really need them to fix a problem.

I run screws (8 per side inside and out) with probably less power than your pushing. This photo is from last year when I was running mid 13s, I'm now running 12 flat with the same wheels. Centerline wheels, Hoosier cheater slicks with tubes at 11psi. I wouldn't run without screws unless you're on a radial with much higher tire pressure. I knew a guy at the track that spun his rim with brand new MT Street radials with a mid 12s car.

... maybe with the lighter weight of your Ford, screws are not as necessary. My 'bird tips the scales at 3350 lbs.

-Chris

..... THANKS for all the info! ... So I won't have my rims powder coated until after I get them so I can drill the rims to screw the tires to them....
John thanks for mentioning about the lug bolts needing to extend out past the lug nuts by the diameter of the lug bolts! I'd forgotten about this! My new 31 spline axles came in so I'm having the 4:11 true track put in on Wednesday. I'll call them tomorrow & make sure that they are using long studs plus I'll have to pick up some lug nuts if they don't have them {I have enclosed ones on there now}..... Thanks again everyone for all the replies...... Bill

BILLLSBIRB, i have gone as fast as 8.4s without screws. just mark the tire and make a pass to see if they moved..if the rim is shiney at the bead take a diagrinder with the little sanding disc lightly scuff up the bead area. with like 800grit or scuff pads so the tire has something to bite on to. 1.2 60fts no screws and never spun a tire. hope this helps..

i take my mickys to 4.5-5 pounds of air and have never spun yet, course they dont hook as well as id like but still !