Thread: blown slantsix

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thanks pat seems the holding tool is anywere from $84 to $119, i will have to contact the local machine shop here and put that idea to him

hello all. I was just reading the posts and this caught my eye, I talked to a guy some time back and he stated that he had a like problem. he then told me that he took a small punch and hammer and dimpled the block and the head so that the gasket would not move under boost, I never seen the engine but he swore that it did the trick, wonder how long it lasted? maybe someone else has more info. GOOD LUCK dave

do you know if he was using a steel or composite head gasket?

I may have an economical fix for you. I ran into these guys several years ago when researching copper head gaskets. They make a very thin compression ring that is affixed to the head gasket and does the same job as an o-ring. Click around on this site and read everything, then call them and discuss making a gasket for your application......
http://www.headgasket.com/whoweare.html

Originally Posted by techinspector1

I may have an economical fix for you. I ran into these guys several years ago when researching copper head gaskets. They make a very thin compression ring that is affixed to the head gasket and does the same job as an o-ring. Click around on this site and read everything, then call them and discuss making a gasket for your application......
http://www.headgasket.com/whoweare.html

wow, that might be a solution for the Ford 6cyl too. I know I'm gonna pop stock head gaskets if I turn the boost up w/ my Turbo 200 ( if I ever get it running )

I bumped into this thread by accident and curiosity. Back in the old days we used the Isky tool, sure it was expensive back then too but solved the problem. We ran both 392 and 426 hemi on nitro in TF, TFC and alcohol as well as built some motors for boats.

We just o-ringed the block and not the heads. We used copper head gaskets and spay contact cement. 3M stuff. It worked pretty well. It was a real problem to get the heads off if they were on for any length of time but the blown cars had the heads off nearly every week anyway. We also used a bit of silicone sealer around the water holes on those that used water with good success.

I don't remember the exact number but the depth of the groove was about .004 or so less than the wire. We carefully tapped the wire in with a plastic hammer so as not to flatten it. The fuel cars ran a bit more stick out as I recall. I'd guess around .008-.010 as the wire was sometimes hard to get to stay in.

hi, no I don't remember if he was using steel or not, for the gasket'. makes sence to a point, I don't know if I would take the chance to find out with out checking alot more

I have the ISKY tool and use just a block groove with out any receiver groove in the head---NEVER had a blowout--this on gas powered engines

In our top fuel/funny car engines the wire groove was cut in the heads by Donovan--no grooves in block

On the Donovan Aluminum heads they were machined for a copper wire around the chamber to match the sleeve and used no gasket at all except for some rubber orings around water and oil passages

Jerry

Originally Posted by terrylittlejohn

do you know if he was using a steel or composite head gasket?

Terry (or any other Slant Six guy for that matter) -

Would you happen to know whether the stainless head gaskets like Chrysler used to sell over the counter are available anywhere?

To tell you the truth I have not looked for one yet but if you can save me some time (and maybe some $3.50 a gallon gas) I will appreciate it.

Thanks,

Jim

the stock steel gaskets are out there but hard to find , a fellow slanter sold me two he had but i could not find any in canada, go to the slantsix web site and ask you might find some help

Thanks, Terry,

I'll look around. I had an extra one that had laid around in my garage for years but it must not have made our last move. Anyway, I don't seem to own it anymore.

Jim

i e-mailed headgasket .com, they don`t have the pattern for a slantsix but if i could send a used gasket or a dxf? of the gasket he can make one for 120$+shipping,if he has to make the pattern himself it 90$.

I have an engine out in the barn that I have been planning to go through. I put the engine together a long time ago, like fifteen or twenty years ago. and it has one of the stainless gaskets in it.

Probably a really dumb question here ....but could I possibly "recycle" it and use it again? A compressible composite one, no, but would it be out of the question with a stainless one?

Getting permission from my lovely wife to pop $120 for a head gasket could be a tough assignment in view of my newly reduced income. In general, retirement is great, but some things about it SUCK.

If reusing the one I have wouldn't be wise, and you might need it for pattern making purposes, I'd be glad to send it to you when I go through the engine.

Thanks, Terry,

Jim

that is not a problem, just take care when prying the head and break the gasket sealant loose all the way around before lifting the head. when you go to assemble the engine clean the gasket with carb cleaner or something like it and then get a can of spray sealer/ adhesive , mopar dealer has it for a fix on neon head gaskets and it good to go.

a composite gasket will stick and will be useless, unless when it was assembled the gasket was sprayed with wd 40 or rust check, that will keep it good for many rebuilds. i have done that with success on my high compression motors for racing. don't know how long it would last on a high mileage engine before it would stick.