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Thread: what do ya think?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    what do ya think?

     



    While looking at various cages the other night, ran across this pic of a set of door bars on a 10 point....

    Other then easier to fab, anyone see reasons why this method would be more or less effective then the more traidtional method of making door bars????
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  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    saw this, too..... not sure why, just for added strength on the main loop, or a substitution (of sorts) for a funny car cage loop added to it????



    oops, didn't save the pic...but what it showed was an added bar from the door bar to the halo hoop.....
    Last edited by Dave Severson; 10-23-2008 at 07:12 PM.
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  3. #3
    kitz's Avatar
    kitz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Ain't you too old to be drivin' stuff that requires that level of armour?

    Guess you will be using a BBC in that.

    Kitz
    Jon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400

  4. #4
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitz
    Ain't you too old to be drivin' stuff that requires that level of armour?

    Guess you will be using a BBC in that.

    Kitz

    Not me!!!! Just looking at some of the newer cages and frame designs. Got to put a 6 pt. bar in the 'maro and the Bronco II and Ranchero will both be getting 12 pt. cages.....

    A BBC????? not in this lifetime!!!!! Really want to do up a 4.6 modular and 5 speed for the Bronco II....though I'll probably chicken out and go with an EFI Windsor with a 5 or 6 speed.

    And of course the Ranchero is still destined to recive one of those absolutely awesome BIG BBF's, either an 806 or an 813....

    Not a whole lot of chebbies in my future---unless I end up finishing the 'maro before I sell it, then I'll probably just have Pat do me up a 496 or something.....rather just sell it as a roller though....
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  5. #5
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Dave, that's a fine lookin' 8.50 cage. I like the door bar treatment and also the sill bar on the passenger side at the floor.

    It needs more bars to qualify as a 7.50 cage though. That may have been where you saw on the other car with a funny cage addition to the peripheral cage. The 8.50 cage can be built right out of the rulebook. The 7.50 cage is built to SFI 25.5 specs (stock frame/unibody car) and the specs are available here....
    http://www.sfifoundation.com/
    Click Chassis Specs on the left, then click Drag Racing Roll Cages and scroll down to Full Bodied Cars, 25.5.
    Last edited by techinspector1; 10-23-2008 at 08:29 PM.
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  6. #6
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I was wondering about the bars overlapping and the small notch vs. the more conventional type X consisting of one long bar and two short bars welded at the corners and at the intersect... Just a different fab method, or is this style shown a preferred new method of making the X?????

    PS---Thanks for the SFI links.
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  7. #7
    Stovebolter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson
    I was wondering about the bars overlapping and the small notch vs. the more conventional type X consisting of one long bar and two short bars welded at the corners and at the intersect... Just a different fab method, or is this style shown a preferred new method of making the X?????

    PS---Thanks for the SFI links.
    Thats how I had to do my rear x bars where they met the tube that holds the swaybar. Of course it wasnt on purpose though....just where it ended up.

    Thats a cool cage Dave. I had something similar in my 69 stepside...wish I had pictures of the cage. Did the x brace through the back of the cab as well. The fellas that helped me put it together sugested the extra material would make it stronger. But they were just guessing I'd say...as that was 12 years ago.

    Dave G
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  8. #8
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Not my cage, Dave, just some pics I was looking at online the other night. I thought it was well built, though I consider the angle of the main hoop to be a bit excessive....Structurally I suppose it's fine.

    We used to run an x brace in the main hoop, but have since gone with a cross bar as pictured and a diaganol bar from the lower right to the upper left of the hoop. I'll be building a couple cages this winter, the one in the Bronco will have the rear downtubes going almost to the rear of the frame rails, and an X inside of them going to a point between the coilover crossmember and the rear of the frame.

    Still trying to decide whether I will use rectangular steel or round tube moly for the frame main rails..... Be awhile til I have to decide, I guess.....
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  9. #9
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Dave, if you're doing tube frame, use SFI spec 25.4
    I thought the car was OEM.
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  10. #10
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I think I have 25.4, have to check. Thanks Richard
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson
    Not my cage, Dave, just some pics I was looking at online the other night. I thought it was well built, though I consider the angle of the main hoop to be a bit excessive....Structurally I suppose it's fine.

    We used to run an x brace in the main hoop, but have since gone with a cross bar as pictured and a diaganol bar from the lower right to the upper left of the hoop. I'll be building a couple cages this winter, the one in the Bronco will have the rear downtubes going almost to the rear of the frame rails, and an X inside of them going to a point between the coilover crossmember and the rear of the frame.

    Still trying to decide whether I will use rectangular steel or round tube moly for the frame main rails..... Be awhile til I have to decide, I guess.....
    I always thought the round tube full chassis looked real sweet. I may be getting a taste of it on a rock crawler. Wanting to make my own version of Sonny Honniger's Scorpion.

    Dave G
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  12. #12
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yeah, I'm thinking more in favor of a full tube chassis lately. They're a bit more time consuming to build, but very strong and safe when done correctly. So, if I'm gonna spend the extra time building a tube chassis, might as well spend a few extra $$$$$ and use moly!!!! Funny how a guy can justify these things, isn't it????? Stole this pic out of the Chassis Engineering catalog, it's their legal 7.50 ET frame...
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  13. #13
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    an old ladder bar bracket racer like me sure did find these intersting!!!!! Very beefy and good adjustability... Just not going to have the room I don't think..... to work best, the bottom bar should be 28-36", as short as the Bronco II is, that would put the front crossmember about half way under the seats!!!!! Looks like I'm gonna have to use a set of 4 bars, probably the Magnmum's like Pro Z has under his Camaro..... Sure would like to try a set of these, though!!!!
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  14. #14
    Stovebolter's Avatar
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    Dave,

    You can put a jet engine in that thing and feel safe.

    I used the Chassis Engineering Ladder Bars just like those for my 69. I liked the safty strap around the front of the heims.

    Dave G
    Do not lift a rock only to drop it on your own foot

  15. #15
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    yup, and I also like the 360* bracket, and the adjutable link on the top bar rather then the lower bar.... Integrating the coilover mount holes into the rear of the bracket is nice, too. I usually run a rear end housing brace, so it'd take a bit of trimming to put a set on,,,, If I could use them, probably just build my own anyhow.....usually do.
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