Thread: nitrous oxide

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It is an awsome power adder if used propperly for the application, and do not steer from the parameters outlined for your application. That is where most people get into trouble, pushing the envelope. And it is a very unforgiving power adder and it bites back hard and is nothing to try more and more of, unless you know what you are doing.

Isn't one system called a "wet" system and another one a "fogger"?? Is that correct, and if so what is the difference?

Don

A wet system is one where you inject nitrous and fuel thru either a bar under the carburetor, or thru a nozzle in the intake manifold runner.

A dry system is normally used on a computer controlled engine and it is one that injects only nitrous and it actually fools the computer into thinking that there is a lean condition and it adds more fuel to compensate.

A fogger system is one where the nozzles are threaded into the intake runners of each cylinder, and it injects nitrous and fuel at the same time.

I've played with nitrous on street cars a few times, but never more then a 100hp shot with a plate system. Haven't ever hurt anything, usually just pick up so much tire spin it doesn't help much. Did run it on a tank of a Galaxie I had for awhile, even just a 75hp shot on a big heavy car helps a bunch getting it moving.

It was rumored that we ran it on a dirt burner one summer but we must not have cuz they never found it on the car!!!!!

Originally Posted by pro60chevy

If everything is set up the right way, no damage will happen. I've been using this stuff since the early 80's, and have had more fun than you can imagine. I currently run two stages on my Chevy with a total of roughly a 600hp boost.

Some very important things to running a safe nitrous tune up.

1. Retarding Timing
2. Plenty of additional fuel.
3. Start with the smallest tune up.
4. Depending on the tune up size, drop to a colder spark plug.

There are actually a ton of other things, but with a Cheater system I would start ith the smallest tune-up they suggest.

there is alot to what pro60chevy posted i have built engines for Nos but they sooner or later they will come back when your running big kits the two guys i know will not tell me how much past 400hp shots.but thing can go wrong very fast .i spend alot of time building a race engine alot of the guys do not know how bad the stuff can be . a great running engine can be turned in to scrap verry fast when the fuel or timming is border line and then you added the torch Nos .i have one in the shop great running engine car ran great but he just added 100hp shot bent the crank took out two pistons started to spin the main. started the loose the head gasket .cup the ss valves ??? could not tell me were he had the timming and all the part were all new very good stuff but he was thinking it was cheap power adder

Pat, What Would You Consider To Be A Colder Plug In A 468
Bb, Brand, Etc, And Would A Colder Plug Make It Harder To Start?
Rdobbs

Originally Posted by rdobbs

Pat, What Would You Consider To Be A Colder Plug In A 468
Bb, Brand, Etc, And Would A Colder Plug Make It Harder To Start?
Rdobbs

hard to say i do not tune my customers NOs systems the more nos you use the cooler you can go for just 100hp shot i would use a stock plug what plug are you using now

Using AC delco plugs from pep boys....I know they are not made for
racing, so I assume they are stock, off the top of my head I do not
know the exact number on the plug, but it does get a good spark
thru the msd system...rdobbs

Are you running A anti-balooning torque converter.

Don't know what an anti-ballooning torque converter is....It is however,
a 4000 stall..I do know that much..rdobbs

Originally Posted by rdobbs

Don't know what an anti-ballooning torque converter is....It is however,
a 4000 stall..I do know that much..rdobbs

keeps the stall from ballooning up and taking out the thrust brearing in the block. the anti balloon plate is a plate weld in the stall under the front pump drive of the stall and some have a ring welded in front were the fly wheel gets bolted up or a new front part of the stall cnc out of steel

I use Nitrous. I retard the timing 4 degrees for every 100 shot. I run a separate fuel pump at 5 p.s.i. It is a lot of fun.

A local guy had a Camaro, spent thousands, he ran 13.1xx. I had a stock 85/305 Z28 with 160 hp. auto that I paid $500 for which ran mid 15's. I challenged him providing I could strap on nos for the evening. I tuned it for 225 shot.

I beat him by several lenghts.

Key is lots of fuel supply, colder plugs, and retard the timing. I use NGK with a 4 rating as standard. For every 100 shot I go a one number higher rating. So for a 250 shot I would use a 7.

All other name brand spark plugs have the ratings in reverse numerical order.

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I've played with nitrous on street cars a few times, but never more then a 100hp shot with a plate system. Haven't ever hurt anything, usually just pick up so much tire spin it doesn't help much. Did run it on a tank of a Galaxie I had for awhile, even just a 75hp shot on a big heavy car helps a bunch getting it moving.

It was rumored that we ran it on a dirt burner one summer but we must not have cuz they never found it on the car!!!!!

Don't ya just love it when they can't find it!

I ran n2o on several drag cars and on the street. Blower in a bottle. I can make a lot of HP, but you need to tune for it. Less timing, and higher fuel pressures. We used a seperate fuel pump and regulators for the N2o, also a high gear timing retard.

tHANKS GUYS FOR ALL YOUR COMENTS, AND ANY ONE ELSE WANTING
TO ADD TO THIS WOULD BE APPRECIATED. R DOBBS

I've done bucket loads of research on nitrous. I've wanted it ever since watching mad mad 2 with my dad as a kid, and asking him, "Whats that Dad?"

I actually fitted it to my drawthrough supercharged pushrod japper, but one week before The meeting I was going to try it at, I melted a piston. So now If building a temporory motor which will get the bottle.
Some of the basics things are,
Run less timing,
100hp shot MAX with hyperutectic pistons.
You must have a good fuel supply. A fuel pressure drop will cause a lean out=engine death.
Spark plugs that that have a thick earth strap so as not to get too hot and cause pre-igntion.
Solder as well as crimp your wiring ternimals.
Run one bottle per stage.
The farther from the port a fogger is placed, the harder it will hit.
Don't ask a stock motor to handle too big a shot.

The horror stories you've heard will be as a result of poor tuning, or badly set up installations.