to reinterate something i previously posted; PROGRESSIVE controllers are best left to hgh dollar, long experience pro race cars and teams who also have a wealth of spray experience with a number of diff engine and driveline combinations, failing THAT, IF u simply MUST use such a system in a predominantly street driven application, do so sparingly. These systems operate via a pulsing of the solenoids which leads to premature burning of the solenoid contacts thus premature failure. This because spray systems work best with a chargeing system with relatively hgh amp out put, IE: when ur system maintains 14+ volts and able to put out AT LEAST 110 amps. Incoporate sytems with hgh power electric fuel pmps, MSD ignitions and the like, not to mention, useing ligts, heaters, stereos ect such as might b the case on the street and u realize the need for such hgh amp output.
Again, ALWAYS use a staged system in a predominantly street driven application, one which ADDS additional spray with each progressive stage. on a throttle switch use the amout that u expect u may w/o blowing the tires away, and or inordinant driveline damage, whatever else in boost u want add in stages after that. I have built systems with as much as 3 stages, and seen systems wuith as many as 4. I do not recommend more than 2 stages in a street oriented system, since this gets u into the same possible problems and failures as would a Staged fogger system with some sort of progressive controller doing the staging, basically, in a wet system, each stage needs 2 solenoids, more noids, more things that can n usually WILL go wrong, jus when u can least afford em to.
Something for those new and or potential spray users, u will always here the non spray users portray spray as somehow a cheat, such comments as, " all throttle, no bottle"; " i don't need no spray "; " what, u afraid to run mtr to mtr ? "...don't buy into that, spray, in this day and age is jus another part/tool to use to go as quick as u can with the least amount of hassle and expenditure, and, most certainly in a street car, have as much driveabilty, MPG and durability as u can. ABSOLUTELY NOTHING achieves all those goals for as little as even the most expensive and intricate spray system, and nothing that does so is as easy to install and maintain, nor install as quickly with common tools.
Nitrous oxide does and can ONLY maximize normal aspiration, it can NOT exceed the max the physical size of the engine is capable of producing given that maximization, the only way to do that is to increase the atmopheric pressure within the inlet (BOOST). Thus spray is and should b still considered NORMALLY ASPIRATED, which is why many hg dollar setups which are turbo charger or supercharger equiped also use SPRAY. the answer to why can't u run straight motor is, I AM running straight motor.... I don't need no bottle, all throttle, no bottle...if u don't NEED spray, WHY are u concerned about whether or not I have it ? and a bottle is STILL ALL throttle, as evidenced by the fact that u can have spray and either or even both of the other predominate power adders, given a durable enuff engine to withstand the power ur able to produce, WHATEVER route u prefer to take to added power. u got an engine that can contain 500bhp n u make 600, its gonna come undone whether u spray, or boost in short order...even if u DON'T use a power adder to do it...simple as that.
In todays hot rodding world, in any competition where spray is allowed, u either have it, or u need it.
Nothing is more disatisfing than for someone with LESS mtr than u have, maybe even LESS car than u come along and spray ya in both eyeballs n blow ya in the weeds, nothing is more of an inexcusable loss either, cause YOU can have it to...
I can build a simple 2 stage wet plate system, dummy proof, including the attendant periphial and safty equipment, as well as the ignition upgrades and knock as much as 2 secs off the et of even an otherwise bone stocker fort well under 2k, think of something else that can do that, or even half that for as much expense, let alone less ?
Besides, u can have a 10 sec mtr, put it in a 12 sec car with a 12 sec driver n ur gonna run 12's, unless its a 12.0 ride, then u MAY run some hgh 11's.
It is almost NEVER the ride with all the latest trick of the week parts n such that ends up king of the street or winnin the class at the track, it is the best working combination that operates the most consistantly. It ain't the fastest car that wins the drag race all the time, but it IS the quickest and most consistant that wins a drag race ALL the time.
Most folk, indeed anyone who rails against spray does so because they FEAR IT and are AFRAID to use it because of that, no matter what they say. Anyone else isn't gonna give a whoot in hell if u do or don't have spray.
Since spray is NOT equal to boost, do NOT get in the mindset that u can whoop all boosted rides with it, if ur up against a well done and operated boosted ride, u might no expect spray to b of some advantage to u, it isn't, the advantage is with the boost, they can exceed the TEP of the physical size of the engine, by a great deal too, u can't do that with spray u can only maximize same. This from a devout spray Junkie, with my hot rods, i treat it like American Express, i don't leave home w/o it.