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Thread: nitrous oxide
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    MrWizard455's Avatar
    MrWizard455 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Oct 2004
    Location
    Flint
    Car Year, Make, Model: 88 BMW327AEI(464" BB Buick T400)
    Posts
    205

    absolutely correct in every instance Lou..... this is the area where most folk fall short in their build, especially when using a power adder. they build an engine that can contain what power is made if it were normally aspirated but not with the additional power from the power adder. The same way folk will build an engine and trans thats bullet proof for the most part but fail to add the needed periphial equipment to take best advantage of them in use. maybe they may fall short in the area of traction yield, or perhaps they short cut on chasis rigidity( which affects traction yield), maybe their instant center and or pinion angle is slightly off, wwhich not only reduced traction yield but also reduces the effect of weight transfer as well as wastes power, viscous coupleings(u-joints) take much more power to turn when there is misalignment, this is why vehicles drag raced with independent drive wheel suspension system are so prone to breakage. with the number of viscous coupleings in such a system its near impossible to have all of them properly aligned at all times, especially on the launch when u have max lift n weight transfer. Not to say that u can't overcome these shortfalls, just that its quite a bit more expensive to do and still ur left with a system that is less durable than a fixed or hypoid axle system, not to mention one that is more power parasitic.
    However ur absolutely correct in ur assesment that whether u plan to produce all ur power normally aspirated or with some sort of power adder the whole vehicle must b designed and executed to handle and make best use of whatever TOTAL amount of power u might achieve, since power u can't put on the ground is essentually counterfeit, in fact ur better off if u have LESS power than ur able to plant than if u have MORE. wheelspin, wheel stands, tire smoke n all that is great for the spectators but not very conducive to winning races. Remember SPOT is a dogs name and ketchup is for hot dogs n french fries, if someone gets out on ya on the lauch u jus spotted that racer and ur playin catch-up. I'll b the 1st to admit that in a race where for whatever reason u end up behind and u over come this to win is a GREAT feeling, but given my druthers, let ME b out there n THEY back there tryin to catch ME. It often said as a truism that the race is won at the start line, this isn't so, its won at the finish line u can jus give urself a better chance to win at the start line, and ur far less likely to make an error if ur in front than if ur behind.
    Again do not take my favortism for spray as to mean that i don't reconize its short falls, i do...nor should u expect that i believe that spray is the overall best piower adder, IT ISN'T, Turbo chargeing is. with a turbo u can make MORE POWER and maintain a greater degree of durability than with any other power production method, even normally aspirated with NO power adder, this because the turbo loads BOTH sides of the combustion or power stroke, the restriction caused by drivin the turbo off the exhaust loads that side of the power stroke, while the turbo boost loads the intake side, this has a balanceing effect on the engine and tends to have the engine run more in the center of ur clearances thus relievein a good deal of the stress on bearings and recip assembly parts, includin side loadin of the pistons against ur cylinder wall, which also reduces friction. tho this does not nessecarily MAKE more power, it does leave u more of what ya do make to put to the wheels.
    My preference for spray is based on the fact that 1st i feel like a turbo or a supercharger is CHEATING, AND both are much more expensive as well as tech intense to install, and maintain. The end game is no matter what u do, no matter what route ya use, the more power u produce from any given power train the shorter the life of same is goin to b, again the generally accepted breakwater mark is 1bhp per cube, past that engine life goes down expostentially, by the time u have gotten to 1.25bhp per cube ur engine life is about 70 per cent of what it was at 1bhp per cube, by the time u get to 2bhp per cube its less than half what it was at 1bhp per cube, which brings up my last point in my preference for spray, max power is on demand only, the remainder of the time the wear factor is that of what the engine makes on mtr alone. spray is also yet NORMALLY ASPIRATED since it DOES NOT increase inlet pressure, its NOT as brutal on the engine as is a supercharger, but more so than is a turbo charger when in use. In final, everything is NOT for everybody, because spray works best for MY purposes does not mean it will for urs. My aim is mainly STEALTH, walk softly and carry a big stick, b faster and quicker than u look or sound, rather than vice versa, u must admit, its kinda hard to b stealthy with a blower stuck thru ur hood or that tell tale turbo whine as ya pull up. another thing, IF u use spray, treat it the same way as does those folk who use a supercharger or a turbo charger, like AMERICAN EXPRESS, never leave home without it and ALWAYS have a spare full bottle on hand. Remeber most so called racers really don't want to race, they jus wanna win and do so as easily as possible. Drag racin successfully is NOT a show and tell sport, after all, if u accept bthat the other racers are at least as wise as u r, as u must, and u show and tell all u have, those who can't or do not believe they can beat ya aren't gonna mess with ya till they think they can and the ones who can are not gonna give ya any kind of break, best u keep ur hood and ur mouth closed, thats ur best chance of winnin more than ya loose which is the very best u can hope for in any kind of racing, the only folk who never loose r those who do not really race.
    Last edited by MrWizard455; 12-21-2009 at 01:03 PM.
    Dallas

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