Thread: line lock

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i am looking at some way to make my launch more consistent and hold my car on the line harder without movement.
Is there a product such as a doubleline lock so that one would have both front and rear brakes locked under full pressure(both circuts). this would allow one to hold the car on the line at higher throttle rpms without pushing through, with a button release just like a trans brake. I rerally dont want to put a trans brake in cause i drive the car on the street. i only have a 2200 stall convertor on the car and i can barly bring the car to 2000 rpm before the car strarts to push the front tires.
Part of this is the rear brakes are looser but i can over power the brakes so easily . anyone ever seen anything like this or am i just thinking with the wrong side of my brain
i was thinkinf 2 line locks with one acitivator switch and a 1-2 or 0ff 3 way switch lock the fronts fo the burnout switch to both and swith to both circuts set the brakes on the line and hold the car once staged with a shifter switch and just concentrate on the rpm till the ligh changes.

You could do it, but I don't think you would gain anything. You are exerting as much line pressure as you can with your foot pedal now, the line locks don't magnify that at all, but simply trap the pressure into the line.

You need more stall speed, and maybe some better/ tighter brakes to hold you. If I remember, you are running a Caddy engine, and that beast makes enough torque to override your brakes.

Don

I think it would work, BUT, the stress on the drive train could also be more.

thats what i am thinking ,that unless i put giant rear brakes on the car nothing will improve as the front brakes stay locked and as i bring up the rpm i can skid the front tires right throught the lights.
Maybe line lock on the front for burnouts and then set the rear brakes up tighter new shoes etc and then i would be able to try to get a batter hold on the line.
I have been known to abuse the rear brakes a little bit smoking the tires
his all started to come about once i put in the little higher stall convertor and rebuilt the engine .

a stall converter really doesnt work until you have a transbrake and are able to actually stall it up. i have a 3500 it starts pushing at 2800 as did the 4500.

You might want to re-think this. Normally, the reason to stall the motor up is to get up on the cam. In a race motor, this is going to be 3000, 4000, 5000 rpm's, depending on the cam's characteristics.

From your description of events, it sounds like you may be using a stock or nearly stock cam because you describe the car pushing through the lights at 2000 rpm's against the brakes. The motor is probably up on the cam at that point, so trying to stall it higher for launch will only waste the torque at the bottom.

Also, if you research torque converters, you will find that the highest stall is achieved punching the loud pedal from an idle. It's called flash stall.

Try launching from an idle and see how the car works, then from 1000, then 1500. I think you'll find the sweet spot somewhere in the lower rpm's.

As far as a line lock, when we built the Luv/455 project for my son's high school ride, we cut the line to the rear brakes right as it passed the driver's seat. We installed a hydraulic gate valve in the line and drilled a hole in the floor, mounting the valve with the handle on the interior side of the sheet metal so that he could just dangle his arm down and switch the pressure off to the rear brakes. Then he could hold the front brakes with the brake pedal and wind up the slicks in the water. Rolling to the line, he reached down and turned the gate valve 1/4 turn and had rear brakes again for the trip down the 1320. This was a Chevy Luv pickup with a stock 455 Olds, stock cam and stock converter. He left from an idle and it worked great.