Thread: think these might drop some e.t.?

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To vara.....


Q: Wannabee; Are you spinning your tires off the line or are you hooking?

A: i'm hooking up 99% of the time if i leave off idle.....

Q: Are your traction bars adjusted right, Rubber bushing under the eye bolt in the spring and snuged right up against it.

A: yup, CE bars setup exactly as you described

Q: What kind of air filter are you running / Size and type?

A: 14x3" K&N but not with that fancy filter top

Q: Full roller rockers are just less friction, Plain and simpal.You'll get more horse power,better pick up,and better fuel millage!

A: that's what i have now.

Q: Alot of people don't run screens in there oil pans, I do in all of the engines I build.

A: that's something i should have done already, but pulling the motor in the next month to do it isn't any option, and a month is all the time i have until points start.


To Stu cool.....

Q: How tall are your tires now and what RPM are you turning through the lights?

A: I am currently using 255/60 BF goodrich radial t/a's that hook decent because they are so bald, but i still can't stall the car. that's why i am switching to the 28s. through the lights the car is right where it's losing the power, about 5100. it won't pull as hard with those big tires but oh well, at least i can leave harder.

Q: If you search around Buick had a switch pitch convert for a while that could be rigged up with a manual switch for street or strip.

A: that's just about the coolest thing i've ever heard of puting on a car like mine... can you give me some more info on them?

sorry this is a little confusing, i don't know how to use the quote deal could someone explain it to me

and on the subject of consistency.....

my average reaction time last year was about .540, the reason it was so high was mostly due to the fact that i leave in such a weird spot, since i couldn't get on the converter at all. most of the time i run within .05 of my dial, if not closer. i'm very competitive in the class i'm in, just not good enough to keep me happy. but i won't be happy until i win them all! haha. once i get the car to leave where i want it, my lights will fall into place a lot more and once i buy another weatherstation i'll be a lot better of for the dial(stolen at the track last year, and ran over another one!).

one thing i don't know a lot about is other than traction, how do i make the car repeatable round to round? i watch my water temp religously, it's ALWAYS the same. i'm guessing that i need to watch tranny temp a lot more. and also, i never really change anything on the car. i change the air pressure a few psi here and there, but i mean i've had the car for 2 years and the most i've done is change the timing a couple times. i've even gone as far as to have someone check my tires with an infrared gun after my burnout to see if the temp is pretty even.

ok i think i'm finaly done now!

thanks a bunch for your patience, i'm a horrible mechanic

and also before i'm off, i also stage VERY VERY VERY carefuly, i flicker the stage light almost every single time before i give my last little tiny bump in.

Still the easiest and cheapest way to improve your ET is to cut weight. Get all the "junk" out of the car, spare tire, back seat, etc. Lighten up the inside of the door panels, replace the quarter windows and back window with lexan. Do you have your battery mounted in the trunk? Fabricate a tray and some hold downs and buy a long cable. If the car has power steering running on a separate belt, remove the power steering belt at the track.

The old school thought on cutting weight is that if you can't find a place on the car to cut 100 pounds, then find 100 places to cut a pound. Watch the swap meets for a fiberglass hood and trunk lid. If you don't drive on the street much in nasty weather, you could consider leaving the front inner fender wells in the garage.

Now that this is an old thread ..... just let me say ........... don't drop E.T. ............... let him phone home..................

Originally posted by pro70z28
Now that this is an old thread ..... just let me say ........... don't drop E.T. ............... let him phone home..................

EL....EEEE.....OT ....................Hooooome

If I am not mistaken Car Craft had a good tech article on this subject. I will try to find it and post a link.

wannabee, the cool can idea is good in hot humid climate, the dump idea is only good if u fatten the carb to compensate fro the loss of back pressure which means it will b too fat when same r closed...a quick et drop is a cheap dist advanced curve kit with which u can tailor ur timin curve to better match the rest of the mtr/drivetrai.....
another cheap trick is to run a shorter tire thus effectively raisin ur numeric gear ratio in ur differential.....also free flow filter elements can sometimes make more power than no element at all....have raced on a shoe string budget for many many years i have many more such inexpensive trick u can use to improve ur perf....tricks that work on any brand of ride too