Thread: Is my roll cage NHRA acceptable

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I'm wondering guys, if without seeing pics, if you can tell me if my cage is passable. It was already installed in the car and looks like somebody knew what they were doing. It is a 1970 chevy Nova, they cut the frame just behind where the doors end (approx) and attached the tubing in the back there. the front of the cage is welded to 6x6" square plates that are welded to the floor inside the car. that's the part I'm wondering about, the rest of the cage looks like it meets the NHRA diagram, but are those plates welded to the floor inside sufficient?

I can put up more pics if you like.

Red

The plates on the floor are what comes with the roll bar kits. I put the same set up in my camaro. You first have to decide how fast the car is going to run to determine if your set up is good enough or not. Is it a roll bar, behind your head, or is it caged with a bar running around your whole roof line and across your upper windshield? It looks like they did a good job putting it in though !

I found this,

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing. The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram for specs. Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
See diagram below.

The 5-points are:
-Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable); Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years)

-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)

-Screw-in valve stems

-No tint allowed on window except factory

10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 18-mile) in hardtop / t-top with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay). If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
See diagram below.

-Convertibles require full roll cage at 10.99 and quicker.
See diagram below.

-aftermarket axles with positive retention (c-clip eliminators)

-Transmission shield SFI Spec 4.1 at 10.99 and quicker or 135 mph and quicker (blanket is okay, no expiration date)

-Harmonic Balancer SFI Spec 18.1 (no expiration date)


9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker:

-Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. The cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position. This style of cage is good til 8.50 1/4-mile times, then a funny car style cage is required.
See diagram below.

It has from the rear main hoop the two bars that come forward, curve and go down to the floor, and they have a crosspiece between them that runs parallel to the top of the front windshield. does that make sense?

I don't actually expect the car to go very fast right now It only has about 450hp from what the seller said, and has big 32x17.5" tires to turn. It's more for fun right now but I'd like to set it up for the track so it is ready in the future.

Thanks a lot guys.

is it like this



or this with a halo

more like the second one, but instead of the halo, which welds at the back and bends around the front, it has the front uprights come up, bend back and tie into the back hoop. and I think only one crosspiece in the front. I need to go take another look and take more pics and draw it somehow. I can't imagine somebody taking the time to do it and not doing it right, it's quite a lot of work they put in.

Red

If it's not quicker than 10.00 in the quarter or 6.40 in the eighth it shouldn't need to be certified. The only way to tell for sure is take it to a certification day and have it tested and inspected. Most tracks hold them before the season starts. You might call your division director or the local track operator and ask for guidence in what is looked for. Can't hurt to try.

I actually contacted the division director via email, he was very helpful, it sounds like mine is good. I'll still get it checked at some point, but I'm feeling confident now that I don't need to change anything. of course with only 450hp and big 32x17.5" tires I don't think it'll be running very fast, it'll just look good on the street for right now. down the road I'm going to see if I can't put a real engine in it.