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Thread: installing motor with plates
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    BlownGoat's Avatar
    BlownGoat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 69 GTO Blown 540cid
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    installing motor with plates

     



    I've built alot of cars but this one is the first tube chassis car with motor plates so i just wanted to make sure this info is the proper way to do this.

    I'll be mocking up my block this weekend so i can put my motor plates/steering in the car and i talked to a buddy that told me the best way to get the motor angle is to run a string through the main caps at the crank center line all the way back to the rear pinion yoke. Then when the string is in the same plane through the caps thats the angle i will want to mount the motor.

    Is this correct?

    I've done a search and found alot about pinion angle on here but not much on the motor angle,but some of what i found says you dont want the crank center line to be perfectly in line with the rear yoke up&down??? i'm a wee bit.

    thanks for any input

    BG
    Somewhere out on Woordward ave. cruzin!

  2. #2
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    your rear pinion should be 2 degrees positive to allow for torque I belive it is at least 2 and that's for stock.
    Jim

  3. #3
    smokinwoody is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    you can...isn't it easier to measure....yes you will need 2-3* negative pinion angle,,2-3* of positive in the drivetrain......left to right I believe you have that all ready figured out....

  4. #4
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Gotta go with Streets on this one, set the motor so the plane of the intake is parallel with the ground. I usually go with 3 degrees pinion down angle. Got to have some angle on your U-Joints or they will live a very short life. One other thing to consider, make sure your motor plate mounts are behind the motor plates so that in the future you can remove the motor and leave the tranny installed. Seems simple, sorry if it seems like and insult to your intelligence, just wanted to mention it!!!!
    Last edited by Dave Severson; 07-05-2004 at 05:54 AM.
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  5. #5
    smokinwoody is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    he's not building a hot rod........he's building a drag car.......yes if it were a street car I would zero everything but the rear...-2-3* on pinion...if it had a solid rear like in a dragster..it all would have to be zero...I'm assuming the rear suspension is a 4 link .. the car is going to launch forward and up..the rear of the chassis is going to rise...so where does it put the drive shaft angle?????

  6. #6
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I think the car is going to see some street use, previous posts have talked about cruizin' Woodward. For straight drag car, slicks only, you're absolutely right..... Never claimed to be an expert on the subject, just mentioned what I had used on my own. For blasting the quarter mile with slicks in full race trim, the adjustability of the 4 link will definitely be an asset. Guess we were talking two different worlds.
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  7. #7
    BlownGoat's Avatar
    BlownGoat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for all the input guys,i finished the motor plates on saterday and all is going good on it.

    I talked to a tech at chassis works(where mose my parts are from) and i gave him a list of what i had...tube frame,4-link,dana60,PG,etc etc....and he told me with the set-up i have the motor should run 1 degree "uphill" and the crank center line should be about 11" and that should be a good set up where i can adjust any thing else with the 4 link.

    And Dave you are correct even though the car is basicly a drag car it will see some street use goin down woodward and to local cruise nights.

    Thanks again guys

    BG
    Somewhere out on Woordward ave. cruzin!

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