Thread: 350 chehy won't start
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01-30-2005 07:52 AM #1
350 chehy won't start
I just had my 350 chevy from my 1969 camoro rebuilt. The engine will not start. It will rotate and will backfire into the carb. I first thought it was 180 degrees out on timing. That was not the problem. I have gone everything I can think of. I have removed no. 1 spark plug and felt the air come out on the compression stroke, removed the valve cover to make sure both rocker arms were in the position that the valves would be closed at tdc on no. 1 cylinder, I made sure it is firing to the plug, I even removed my newer distributor( that had been working before the rebuild) and tried my old distributor. no change. Can anyone help me with this problem?Wildphil
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01-30-2005 09:34 AM #2
If the engine was rebuilt were the plug wires put back in correct order?Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!
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01-30-2005 10:05 AM #3
How about valve adjustment?TEAMWORK is essential, it allows you to blame someone else!
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01-30-2005 10:58 AM #4
Thank for info guys. On the plug wires I have gone over them several times 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. For the valves adjustment I have only checked no. 1. With the valves closed at tdc I could rotate the the pushrod but there was resistance. The guy at the machine shop put my long block togather. He is supposed to be good. Should I rotate the damper 1/4 turn then check 8 like I did 1 and then turn 1/4 turn to 4 and so on. Is that right? Do you think this needs to be done?Wildphil
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01-30-2005 11:26 AM #5
Everybody seems to have their own way to adjust valves this is my way on cold fresh motors,they have always started.
With engine at No1 TDC adjust Exhaust valves on cylinders 1,3,4and8 and Intake valves 1,2,5and7.
Turn engine over one full turn so that timing mark is at TDC again
this is TDC on cylinder 6. adjust Exhaust valves2,5,6and7 and
Intake valves 3,4,6and8.
When adjusting keep rotating push rod until resistance is felt
then tighten one full turn.
This will get valves close and if everything else is right it will run.
You will need to readjust after engine is warmed up.
GOOD LUCK!!!TEAMWORK is essential, it allows you to blame someone else!
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01-30-2005 11:27 AM #6
sounds to me you have the timming 180 out even with valve cover off its hard to tell if valves are ok depending on cam on exhaust stroke exhaust valve is almost closed bythe time piston hits tdc try the 180 out thing can't hurt to try.
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01-30-2005 12:27 PM #7
Distributor Rotation Diagram
Heres a nice easy way I figure out distributor rotation, look on top of the distributor and notice where the vacume advance canister is. Then follow an imaginary arrow through the canister and around the distributor. This gives you the rotation of the roror as the vacume advance works by pulling the advance plate against the rotation of the rotor to give advance. Time your engine to NO 1 firing stroke, then drop your distributor in.Then pick a tower and start your firing order.
Works on any vacume advance distributor - easy eh !Last edited by southerner; 01-30-2005 at 04:58 PM.
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01-30-2005 01:41 PM #8
Could also be bad valve springs. All it takes is a few weak or bad springs.Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!
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01-30-2005 04:50 PM #9
I have made a dumb mistake and you guys have figured it out for me and I thank you. Yes I put the wires down in the wrong direction. It has been to many years since I have wired one and I thought I had done it right. Bad news the engine will not start. But the backfiring has stoped. I think it is not turning over fast enough and long enough. I took the battery in to have it tested and was told it was no good. I bought a new one. The engine turned over faster for about 2 seconds then slowed down. I put it on the charger. maybe in was low. Also the new starter that I put on is a stock one. My old one was a high torque starter. do you guys think that I need to get another high torque one. I will see what hapens after I charge the battery. Thanks again for your info you have given.Wildphil
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