Thread: injection to carb swap
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03-27-2005 05:15 PM #1
injection to carb swap
hello all, im looking for advice on swapping a TPI injection set up on my 350 for a carb set up, Can I get some suggestions on what would be a good intake and carb to use. It's a mild street motor running about 300hp. Also will I need to use an MSD type ignition box and distributer? Not sure if the HEI will work after the swap. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
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03-27-2005 05:21 PM #2
The RPM air-gap intake is the latest/greatest thing. Makes HP by keeping the carb. cooler.
If it's an auto tranny w/low stall converter I'd run a 600 vacuum secondary Holley (1850). If it's stick or a high-stall I'd run a 650 double pumper.
Your HEI has no provisions for timing advance but can be converted. I'd buy a re-man for a pre-80 chevy V-8 and use the computer distributor for a core.'course, more spent in that area the more you get, kinda.http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/647081
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03-28-2005 02:58 AM #3
Sparky, thanks for your input, the car is an automatic and right now has the stock converter from the trans am although i plan to put one in the near future, thinking maybe 2400-2600 stall. I don't really understand your advice about the distributer (im a fuel injection guy, this will be my first carb set up) could you put it another way maybe? I have seen the tests on some of the air gap intakes and I agree that will be the way i go with it. Could you tell me what exactly is it about the set up that would make you go with a bigger carb between auto/stick, just curious. thanks again
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03-28-2005 03:04 AM #4
lol duh, just figured out re-man = remanufactured. but why would i need a core? core as in "core charge" like when you buy calipers or core like using the HEI shaft with the pre 80's top bolted to it? I think i said that right, hmmm. =)
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03-28-2005 08:42 PM #5
Sorry 'bout the lingo. There is a core charge on remanufactured items. You distributor would need to go back as a core charge.
The stick shift/high stall converter can handle the double pumper whereas the low stall auto would bog. The vacuum secondary keeps the bog away.http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/647081
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03-29-2005 10:55 PM #6
I know the motor has to be at TDC before I pull the distributor out but on which stroke and how do i tell? also can you suggest some full length headers i might use? this motor is going into an 87 regal, thanks
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03-30-2005 08:09 PM #7
Several ways to answer the TDC question. My sure fire method is to feel for compression on #1 cylinder while watching the balancer mark come to the timing marks.
I'd use small tube (1 5/8") headers on that motor. Build great torque and run up to 5500-6000 with no problem.http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/647081
Great to see your new post, Mike, and great to see CHR up and running again after several days of the Hmmm, can't reach this page.... Also good that you found an easy solution to your storage/access...
1968 Plymouth Valiant 1st Gen HEMI