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Thread: injection to carb swap
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    BAD87BUICK is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 87 Buick Regal
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    injection to carb swap

     



    hello all, im looking for advice on swapping a TPI injection set up on my 350 for a carb set up, Can I get some suggestions on what would be a good intake and carb to use. It's a mild street motor running about 300hp. Also will I need to use an MSD type ignition box and distributer? Not sure if the HEI will work after the swap. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    sparky2263's Avatar
    sparky2263 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 65 'vette, 04 GTO, 92 4.3 Blazer
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    The RPM air-gap intake is the latest/greatest thing. Makes HP by keeping the carb. cooler.

    If it's an auto tranny w/low stall converter I'd run a 600 vacuum secondary Holley (1850). If it's stick or a high-stall I'd run a 650 double pumper.

    Your HEI has no provisions for timing advance but can be converted. I'd buy a re-man for a pre-80 chevy V-8 and use the computer distributor for a core.'course, more spent in that area the more you get, kinda.
    http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/647081

  3. #3
    BAD87BUICK is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sparky, thanks for your input, the car is an automatic and right now has the stock converter from the trans am although i plan to put one in the near future, thinking maybe 2400-2600 stall. I don't really understand your advice about the distributer (im a fuel injection guy, this will be my first carb set up) could you put it another way maybe? I have seen the tests on some of the air gap intakes and I agree that will be the way i go with it. Could you tell me what exactly is it about the set up that would make you go with a bigger carb between auto/stick, just curious. thanks again

  4. #4
    BAD87BUICK is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Smile

     



    lol duh, just figured out re-man = remanufactured. but why would i need a core? core as in "core charge" like when you buy calipers or core like using the HEI shaft with the pre 80's top bolted to it? I think i said that right, hmmm. =)

  5. #5
    sparky2263's Avatar
    sparky2263 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sorry 'bout the lingo. There is a core charge on remanufactured items. You distributor would need to go back as a core charge.

    The stick shift/high stall converter can handle the double pumper whereas the low stall auto would bog. The vacuum secondary keeps the bog away.
    http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/647081

  6. #6
    BAD87BUICK is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I know the motor has to be at TDC before I pull the distributor out but on which stroke and how do i tell? also can you suggest some full length headers i might use? this motor is going into an 87 regal, thanks

  7. #7
    sparky2263's Avatar
    sparky2263 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Several ways to answer the TDC question. My sure fire method is to feel for compression on #1 cylinder while watching the balancer mark come to the timing marks.

    I'd use small tube (1 5/8") headers on that motor. Build great torque and run up to 5500-6000 with no problem.
    http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/647081

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