Thread: Ford 460 Project for F250 4X4

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I am in the process of rebuilding my old tired 1986 460. I have just bought a set of 1973 Linc. heads for it, and a Edlebrok intake and 750 CFM carb, new race pistons, rings, gaskets, and bearings. I mic-ed all the culenders and see that they are almost like new, and the stck crank is like it was never used. This engine has very little miles from what I can tell. The question I have is on the cam and lifters and rockers. My goal here is to hit 500HP, but anything close is acceptable. I see alot of cams out there, but I know very little about them. With the setup I have so far, can anyone recommend a cam? Summit Racing has some really nice prices on cams and lifters, under a 100 bucks, are these any good? I will be running a Warner T-18 4 speed, with a 3/4 ton rear end. Also, with the addition of a new cam, will I have to have different rockers? I am kinda on a budget, and wonder if there is any great gain by aftermarket rockers with rollers or if the stock style will suffice. BTW, I have bought new pushrods and guideplates. Any info anyone can give me on this project would be great. If there is something I should know, and I didn't ask about it, please feel free to let me know.

well if you've already bought hardened pushrods and guideplates, you might as well get the roller rockers, they're a neccisary when using a high lift cam... now on to the cam, summit cams, lifters, and such are great parts... go ahead and use them... but first call up crane or comp cams, tell them what you're trying to build, how much HP you want to try and get, how many RPMs you're looking to max at, and they'll give you the stats you need on your cam to do what you're doing.... now go thru summits cams for your engine, and find one closest to that... now the thing is, since you already bought your carb and such, you're going to be limited on your cam, cause you dont want something that needs higher CFM than what your carb can provide, you also dont want to get something that needs a lot less... its all difficult... now theres going to be an issue with your pistons, if you get too high lift of a cam, your pistons need to be reccesed properly for the valves.... then you're going to need to think about your heads/intake will they breathe well enough for all this other thats happening? or are they going to not allow all that power you're looking for? also your crank, you say that it seems fine... i'd still take it in and have it polished, shouldn't cost too much since you're not having it cut, also replace your bearings while you're at it... how do your rods look? you should probably have them checked to see how straight they are, if you're planning on pushing high HP/RPMs you dont want to have a rod that has any damage at all to it... or else you'll be paying a lot more than you planned... hopefully i've been of some help so this rambling doesn't goto waste..

Thanks for the idea on the Cam, big help there, I had not thought of doing it like that. I will have to see if they can match for the best performance with 750 CFM. As for getting the crank pollished, it would cost me an arm and a leg, I live on an island in south east alaska, and there is no one here that does machine work like that. I can not even get heads resurfaced, or ported, as why I bought the linc heads. I was told by the guy I got them from that they would flow plenty. The pistons I have have decent valve relief, and as long as I use a standard throw on the crank, shouldn't they be alright? Any other thoughts, please let me know.

standard crank throw is safe on valve lift up to .500 any higher and you'll start knocking valves... i guess since you cant really get your crank polished, make sure to at least clean it very well and use plenty of assembly lube when putting the motor back together..... IMO you really cant overlubricate an engine

Thanks alot for the actual numbers for the lift, I have been searching all night for anything saying what I could go to. From what I have read, .512 lift is the most recomended for my application, but I think that is a little more than I need. I have yet to get in touch with crane or comp, but I will wait to hear what they say before deciding. Thanks alot for your input. I agree with you on the lube in assembly, not any such thing as too much.
In the absence of a decent machine shop, I have thought to use a lip reamer sold at the local parts store to remove my cylinder lip, sells for about $75. Ever used such a tool? Wondering if it is worth the purchase.

Thanks for all the info so far.

yeah those are actually pretty good tools, you're going to want to hone it after reaming it though