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Thread: horsepower for bored out 350
          
   
   

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  1. #3
    Swifster's Avatar
    Swifster is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sterling Heights
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1964 Studebaker Commander
    Posts
    440

    Without knowing exactly what you have, it could be anywhere from 150 to 400 HP. No offense, but if the truck does low 12's, let alone low 13's, I'm a monkey's uncle. There would need to be some serious rear suspension work done to make that truck hook up.

    I think you were sold a bill of goods on the rebuild. Unless the truck has been on a dyno, or run at a track (and you have a time slip), talk is cheap. If you're running pump gas in it, the compression isn't that much (and the heads weren't shaved).

    Shaving heads would screw up the valve train geometry. The raised compression would cost just as much to sort out this way than just buying a set of pistons.

    The old addage of how fast you want to go is that it's (or was) $1000 a second. That truck was probably a 17-19 second truck new. Does the engine look like it was a $4000 to $6000 rebuild?

    The engine I'm building for my car will run me approximately $14,000 (this is a GM 6.0L bored and stroked for 421 ci with 9.0:1 compression and a Magnason/Eaton supercharger). The car will weigh about 3400Lbs and is shaped like a brick. The engine should put out a bit over 500 HP at the rear wheels. It should run 11.50 to 11.75.

    Your truck weighs a lot more than this. It is also shaped like a brick. And with no weight over the rear wheels, the wheels wouldn't hook up without leaving really gentle off the line.

    If you want to drag a truck, get one with a short box to save weight and help weight transfer with the shorter wheelbase.
    Last edited by Swifster; 04-11-2005 at 01:01 PM.
    ---Tom

    1964 Studebaker Commander
    1964 Studebaker Daytona

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