Thread: 383 stroker

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i was looking up 383 strokers on how to build one and it says that if you have a stock 400 crank you need the main journals ground, what are the journals and how much do you need them ground, then it say you use 350 rods but they need to be reconditioned, what does that entail, it also says you can use a 3.75 crank but what is the difference between that and a 400 crank, it also says to have a 383 you need it bored out .030 over but what do you have when it is bored .060 over, like a 390 or something and then does that affect the performance or anything even significant

There is some good info on journal specs and rod length on Chevytech.net. Maybe reconditioned rods are ones that are shot peened and balanced.

I built a 383 with a stock 400 crank but I dont remember having it ground.Re conditioned rods are resized on the big end. They take off a few thousands and re bore the holeback to origial size to take any egg out.

do i have to do anything to the crank itself or the block to get the 350 rods to fit on the crank or the crank to fit the block, right now i have a 327 crank and rods in it so i don't know

You have to clearance the oil pan rail for the rods to fit. Thats all

http://www.sporttruck.com/howto/40619/

this is the site i got my info from, i have a larger pan on it so i should be good in that department.

anyone know the numbers that go with a 400 so if i went to my local junk yard i could be able to tell what is a 400 and what is not, and will any older crank work will i need it to be special for any reasons, will i need a new flywheel or torque converter, will a 327 flywheel bolt up or are they pretty much all the same

I should have said the the rail of the block itself where the pan bolts on and you might have to dimple the pan too.

Good luck on the build. Im in the same spot as you

thanks i will need it

I think the balancer and flywheel/flexplate 'have' to be 400's.And the rodbolts will hit the cam and block without mod's.You can get 383 cranks for under $200(cast).There are various rod lengths to use but I think most use the 5.65" rod.You can get the rotating assembly's for around $600 at several different places.This is about the lowest cost motor to build $/hp and a good one too.
There are many 383 guys on here,,,,where you at guys,,,???

First, a 3.75" crank is a 400 c.i.d. It has a 3.75" stroke. It is also an external balanced crank where as all the other small blocks are internal, so you will have to have the flywheel and balancer for a 400. The mains will have to be turned down to fit in the 350 block since the 400 has bigger seats. The counter weights on the crank may hit the oil pan rail on the block but that can be taken care of with a small grinder very easy. You can either use the 5.7" rods or 6.0" rods as they will both fit, just make sure you have the right pistons. I have had mine ballanced so there is no problem with the rods hitting the cam or anything. Good luck.

Kodiak

well the crank on the engine is externaly ballanced so i have all the pulley and belt set perfect then so thats good, i'm sure i can find a 400 crank, flywheel and balancer, i will have to come up with some dough to have the block set right for the bigger crank, i'm sure i can get some 5.7 rods from something, anyone know of any vehicles that use those stock, plus i need to know how to identify a 400 from other engines, something that is garenteed and can't be messed up like numbers or something, i have like no money so all of this is going to be done by freind to friend finds and trades and work for parts type deals so i am looking to find exactly all the parts i am going to need to do this.

what type of pistons do i need, i have no idea what type i even have, hell they are probably stock

If you really want to build a 383, and don't have any of the parts, you'd be wise to just buy a complete balanced rotating assembly. There's no need to bother trying to find an original 400 crank as there are several brands on the aftermarket that already have the correct diameter mains. The rotating assembly will come with the correct rods and pistons, damper and flywheel/flexplate already balanced. You'll still need to do the prep work on the block, but at least you'll know that the rotating/reciprocating parts are all compatible.

Bob