Thread: Stroker kit

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Ok so the engine in my Trans Am went and needs rebuilt.. I feel right now its a waist time to pull that engine, disasseble rebuild and reassemble and drop it in.....
At this time I'm not driving at all because I can't afford the insurance (I got in a wreck with my moms car and the premium tripled...) but I still live with the folks and my friends are very kind since I do have plenty of gas money. lol

Anyways back to the point. I have well over 2 or 3 months to rebuil an engine and I have enough money right now to do it. I want to build a 383 Stroker and I looked online and found 2 sites that I was personally appealed to.

This one is cheap, and includes a camshaft. However the part names don't sound familiar... so I don't know if they are just cheap parts or if they are any good.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...&CartId=703713

This site is a little more expensive but doesn't include the camshaft but the parts they include are the same ones my friend used when he rebuilt his Ford Probe engine (to stock specs except bored .020 over)

http://www.strokerkits.com/new_page_9.htm

Just want some personal opinions on these to. Also would like any other suggestions. I could possibly peice together my own kit from performance shops?

Behind the new engine will be a 700R4 (with a shift kit) and a 283(i'm pretty sure) open rear end.

Thanks for any advice in advanced

Nothing wrong with the Scat crank, I do think I would prefer either I-beam or H-beam rods over stockers..... The parts in the Northern kit, Clevite bearings and such, are good pieces, but it doesn't say anything about the rods other then they are 5.7" long... I'd check around and see if you can find a kit with a bit better rods.

Here's a suggestion....
Use the "Chevy 383 Mighty Mouse Kit" from Speed-O-Motive. These guys have been in business since 1946. I've used their stuff and so have thousands of other hot rodders through the years. The basic kit gives you the crank, 5.7 GM rods with Arp bolts, hypereutectic pistons, rings & bearings for $695. Also get options....flexplate $38, damper $68 and balancing $150. Use the stock oil pan and a stock oil pump with bearing clearances in the middle of the spec. Cut the deck for zero deck. Use Fel-Pro 1003 head gaskets. For the rest of the formula, use parts shown in this combination #42. Buy the 64 cc Sportsman II heads for a compression ratio of 10.3 and use the rest of parts shown in this combo. This is the best iron-head power with a juice, flat tappet cam that I've seen yet. With the cam listed and zero deck, the motor will run fine on pump gas and deliver in excess of 450 ft. lbs. of torque. Time the motor with 12 degrees at the crank and re-curve your HEI to provide another 24 degrees, all in by 2,800 rpm's.

http://www.speedomotive.com/

http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos6.html

Thats a great Idea and all but I don't really have money to buy new heads. I want to reuse my block/heads. I'm also going to use the old intake (after I clean it up first) a slightly larger carb. I already have HEI Ignition. I also have plenty of brand new parts such as Balanche, flexplate, and most the the front billet.

My budget is $2,500 until I get my license back.

P.S. does anyone know in the state of Arizona if a single vehicle car crash is worth points against your license? I got a speeding ticket for the wreck because I was not driving "Reasonably and Prudent" but I can't find out if the crash alone is worth points or not....