Thread: Mid cam swap engine inspection - take a look at these pics - see anything wrong?

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OK, I'm in the middle of my cam swap and took some pictures. Please take a look and tell me if you see anything wrong (techninspector, Denny?). I did not but I just want a 2nd opinion before I button everything up. Also, the oil pan has a cover panel, is this maybe a windage tray? It has trap doors I can see (offroad needs this). Thanks in advance.

A few more pics

Going to fold those retainers up against the cam sprocket bolts?

That's what I was going to say....otherwise, it looks cool to me! Dont forget, one full revolution of the crank before you set up for TDC on the #1 cylinder...this is where lots of guys make a mistake.

Are you absolutely certain you've got the right caps on all the rods? May be a trick of the light, but some of those caps look misaligned to me. See the bright line where the cap and rod join? That should be smooth, they're machined together.

Super thanks for all the input, I appreciate a good double check from others with more experience than me. I have never built an engine from scratch, and this is my first deep internal work.


Just some history, the engine was already assembled bought used last year, this is just a pan off inspection while I am doing a cam swap.

- I have already bent the retainers on the cam bolts, that pic was early. I wanted to double check my work before bending them over.

- The orange nut may be a trick of the light, but more likely a slightly rusty nut? It's been fine until now, I wonder if this is really a worry

- yeah, the scratches in the cylinder walls are not great, but not TOO deep. I hopefully will get some more time before I have to teardown all the way and rebuild.

- I did recheck the oil pump bolts, they were good.

- I guess I can't say if the caps are right, that is the way it was already on the engine before I did the cam swap. When my friend did his SNC, his were like this too. ??

- For timing, I have been rotating the engine to get the cylinders up to do valve spring change with cylinders on the head, so I'm planning on doing timing from scratch anyhow. I normally do the method of tissue in spark plug hole and rotate engine. When the tissue pops out (cyl #1), I rotate to 10 degrees, and that is where I will start the engine.

- Denny, are the clearances you mention change much over time (if things were ok before, do I need to be concerned now)?

Thanks again, let me know if you see anything funny further.

As I said, it may be a trick of the light. If it was running for a while, they are probably right. Photos can highlight things that aren't really there.