Thread: NEW TO SITE!!! Want to build 383 chevy

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just wanted to say hey hows it going. also that i wanted to build my self a nice street/ strip motor for my 86 cutlass.

im not very educated in engine builds so i figured you guys will know alot off stuff that will work and has work beautifully in the past. i also realize this has been covered many times so if you wish not to help me out no big deal but please write away if you want to.

So heres how it goes.

- want to build 383 for sure
- car will be driven on the street but not huge amounts of kms/ miles ( not only car so maybe less then 30 a week)
- thinking mid 12's to high 11's at the track
- tranny will be a freshly rebuilt TH 350 ( stall not decided till after)
- gears are 373's ( posi of course)
- also debating either nitrous , turbo or blower ( think there the same any ways :P)
- price wise also has to be in moderation ( under or close to 6000 canadian)
- i really want somthing that rips it hard on the street and runs a decent time at the track

I have went over some combos but still havent really decided on what i should do. so please if you can help me out that would be great.

thanks for reading and i hope i can come back to this site in the future

Originally Posted by BinJim

just wanted to say hey hows it going. also that i wanted to build my self a nice street/ strip motor for my 86 cutlass.

im not very educated in engine builds so i figured you guys will know alot off stuff that will work and has work beautifully in the past. i also realize this has been covered many times so if you wish not to help me out no big deal but please write away if you want to.

So heres how it goes.

- want to build 383 for sure
- car will be driven on the street but not huge amounts of kms/ miles ( not only car so maybe less then 30 a week)
- thinking mid 12's to high 11's at the track
- tranny will be a freshly rebuilt TH 350 ( stall not decided till after)
- gears are 373's ( posi of course)
- also debating either nitrous , turbo or blower ( think there the same any ways :P)
- price wise also has to be in moderation ( under or close to 6000 canadian)
- i really want somthing that rips it hard on the street and runs a decent time at the track

I have went over some combos but still havent really decided on what i should do. so please if you can help me out that would be great.

thanks for reading and i hope i can come back to this site in the future

Check here. http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

Big Truck Driver beat me to it If you want the best bang for the buck, take a look at combo #42, iron heads are cheaper than aluminum. Never mind the horsepower, look at the 452 ft./lbs. of torque @4,500. That'll yank ya back in the seat for cheap!!!

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Big Truck Driver beat me to it If you want the best bang for the buck, take a look at combo #42, iron heads are cheaper than aluminum. Never mind the horsepower, look at the 452 ft./lbs. of torque @4,500. That'll yank ya back in the seat for cheap!!!

Thats a good site !Answers a few questions.I got that link from you.

hey thanks alot thats exactly what i needed

Originally Posted by BinJim

hey thanks alot thats exactly what i needed

Ryan, has a lot of good combo's.
I also would add a few of his combo's have to large a cylinder head port volume.I.M.O.,the engines would do better with a smaller port volume in the first couple of builds.
Also don't use the short 5.565 400 rod when building a 383.Use a 5.7 or a 6 inch instead.
If you want to add n2o have the cam cut on a widder l/s such as 110 also favor the exhuast by 10 degree's over the intake depending on how much you are going to use.

Got any parts or building blocks for this motor yet ?

well bascially all im gonna use is the block, pullies, headers, and see if i can still use the rpm air gap. but every thing else will be new cause i dont like messing around with used parts.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

Ryan, has a lot of good combo's.
I also would add a few of his combo's have to large a cylinder head port volume.I.M.O.,the engines would do better with a smaller port volume in the first couple of builds.
Also don't use the short 5.565 400 rod when building a 383.Use a 5.7 or a 6 inch instead.
If you want to add n2o have the cam cut on a widder l/s such as 110 also favor the exhuast by 10 degree's over the intake depending on how much you are going to use.

This guy knows his 383's

Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver

This guy knows his 383's

I have built a lot of them in the past 15 yrs. or so.

All external dimensions of a 383 are the same as a 350 so you can still use your rpm air gap.

Say Eric, you say you have built lots of 383's what do you think is a better set up the externally ballanced crank kit or the internally balanced crank kits. I have allways run with the internally balanced kits.

i might still use the air gap but not sure if i will depending on the set up i go with.

alright so all the engines from ryans car page are made for the street right. but from what iv been told you have to run race fuel when you hit that 500 hp range? or is the only thing that makes those set ups street is the cam/ lifters combos and im assuming they perform at lower rpm?. so then what gas to run isnt an issue in desciding for street/ strip?



http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

You know, it "used to be" that 400 hp was the maximum that anybody said could be used on the street. Sort of like what Bill Gates said about 10 years ago We have 800Mb's of processing power (or some x figure cant remember exactly) that should be enough for anybody.......yeah right.

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But if you are mianly using this car for street fun and the occasional drag shootout, then the thing that moves you is torque more than horsepower. Torque is all about pulling power starting at moderate engine revs and having a good power range. So the 383 stroker is a good choice for achieving this. If you want to go for horsepower it is usually a high reving narrow torque band screamer. And the higher the engine revs the harder it is on parts like valve springs for instance. So there is more time and money spent on maintenance.

You'll notice that all the static compression ratios are between 9 and 10 to 1. That, together with selecting the proper intake closing point on the camshaft and a good tight squish of 0.035" to 0.040" will allow any of these engines to operate on pump gas.

Whoever told you that you would require racing fuel at 500 horsepower may not have known what he was talking about.