Thread: 200 rebuild
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11-10-2006 06:57 PM #1
200 rebuild
Ok, now that I', pulling the engine apart, I need to start thinking about parts.
Here's what I have in mind
the Ross Racing Forged Pistions, made with 10cc dish
ARC-268/274 (110*) Hydraulic Dual Pattern Camshaft
New lifters
Chrome Moly Push Rods (170/200ci)
Clevite 77 bearings ( Main, Rod and Cam bearings )
Stock 1967 Cylinder head 52cc combustion chamber
.050 compressed thickness composit head gasket
Comp will be somewhere in the 8.2-8.5:1 range
This will be turbocharged & intercooled at 6-15 PSI. Turbo will come in around 2k RPM
Fuel injected Via throttle Body.
is this going to work good?You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-10-2006 07:12 PM #2
matt let us know how that little sucker works once you get it going, i might apply the same idea to a chev 6 cyl in a light alterd t bucket for racing.
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11-10-2006 07:15 PM #3
I'll keep ya updated. I think it should be running sometime around febuary at the latest. I'm gonna take my time on it.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-11-2006 05:34 PM #4
Also, I'm going to buy a dual roller timing chain. a little expensive at $100 but I'd rather have the added strength. also allows advance or retard 4* or 6* or str8 up.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-12-2006 06:13 PM #5
Originally Posted by Matt167
I really hope you have a strong bottom end.
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11-12-2006 07:06 PM #6
Originally Posted by erik erikson
only gonna run 6- 8 on a day to day basis, gonna tweak the 15 PSI on race day, via, a boost controllerYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-12-2006 07:27 PM #7
[QUOTE=Matt167]7 bolt mains, these engines can take upwards of 20 PSI.
only gonna run 6- 8 on a day to day basis, gonna tweak the 15 PSI on race day, via, a boost controller[/QUOTE They won't live long if you are running the stock rods and crank at 15 psi.
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11-13-2006 04:14 AM #8
many people do it. like I said, only gonna crank it to 15 psi when I race. the 200-250's are comfterble between 6-12 PSI, but most people who run them TC'd crank to 15 psi when they need to, as they will take it. 1 200 powered drag mustang first ran in 1981, used a T 60 Turbo, draw thru, a 600 CFM holley, cranked up to about 30 PSI on race gas and went 9.85, engine was producing 450 HP, that motor is still in 1 peice, and other than the turbo and some minor machine work, it was a stock engine, other than a diffrent casting head, eventully he did upgrade to aluminum rods, but just to make the car faster, original rods were fine when he pulled them. check out www.fordsix.com/forums, you'll see what I mean.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-13-2006 08:26 AM #9
Originally Posted by Matt167
I would not believe everything you read.
The 450 hp engine that went 9.85 just does not add up.
To run down that far into the 9's you will need more hp than this.
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11-13-2006 03:10 PM #10
hey matt dont you mean 7 main caps... not 7 bolt mains.... that would be a lott main bolts... and where would that odd number one go?right thru the center??
with your rods you got make sure not to skip checking if they're straight and shot peen em and everything..... and dont just straighten them if they are a little bent.... some guys do that... which is ok if you're running just a stock get around motor....just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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11-13-2006 03:35 PM #11
Originally Posted by erik erikson
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...g/waterbox.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ang/engine.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ng/engine2.jpgYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-13-2006 03:38 PM #12
Originally Posted by thesalsYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-13-2006 03:38 PM #13
Originally Posted by Matt167
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11-13-2006 03:41 PM #14
Originally Posted by erik eriksonYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-15-2006 12:59 PM #15
make sure those clevite bearings are up for the added HP...
I recently read they have some better P-series bearings from Clevite, wich cope with the stress a little better than the regular ones...haven't got a clue on the pricing though...
Maybe a girdle for the bottom-end will help keeping things together?
just a thought...
(yeah, okay, so I think a lot...not everything makes sense...so if it's a lot, there's bound to be one or two good and usable thoughts there, wouldn't you agree?)Going sideways through a bend isn't considered normal or even sane, so that's the way I like it!
How much did Santa have to pay for his sleigh? Nothing! It's on the house! .
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